Happy Jack

http://youtu.be/W3ToNZSkmRg

Yup, I can go back up any time I like ...

"People who viewed this item also viewed" http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steinway-Billy-Joel-Yamaha-Elton-John-SIGNED-by-both-of-them-only-1-in-world/201955685980?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D43783%26meid%3D4aaebbe1f2fe4851842fa6e351220a3c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D292151449345 But it's free P&P so that's OK.

I'm now picturing your next gig ... http://youtu.be/vWT0Fi01DPA

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1496350954' post='3310816'] [media]http://youtu.be/P3iCeBAmmbo[/media] [/quote] I have a lot of time for Marlowe DK, but someone should tell him that two pairs of wet socks stuffed into a Coke can is [i][b]not [/b][/i]an effects pedal. That's about the crappest tone I've heard in a month of Sundays.

About 10. The 320 is simply nicer ... better made, higher-quality wood (body and fretboard, don't know about the neck), more interesting colours (incl. gold hardware rather than black). The whole thing just oozes quality. For some reason (and IMHO of course) the 320 responds remarkably well to flats.

If you like the 310, then you'll LOVE the 320.

Dunno. They're lovely basses, but I think his advert is remarkably straight about this - if you're comfortable playing that bass [u][b]without [/b][/u]adjusting the trussrod then it's probably a bargain. If you need to 'fix' the trussrod, for whatever reason, then you're tap-dancing through a minefield. By the time you've separated the fingerboard from the neck, found the cause of the problem, fixed it professionally, and put everything back together, chances are you'd have been better off just buying a fully functional example.

Only just stumbled across this thread, and deeply puzzled at the enthusiasm for foot controllers, midi, and DMX. All these things will eat up your time like you wouldn't believe, cause endless frustration when they don't operate as planned, add to the complexity of your set-up and break-down, and distract you at critical moments when you're trying to play. For anything up to a large social club, you can put on a "light show" with five carefully-placed lights, or even fewer. You almost certainly have to have a couple of pole-mounted PA tops anyway, so mount a single LED flood on each of these firing across the band. Put an LED lightbar on the floor behind the drummer's throne shining straight up the wall. Put two more LED floods on the floor according to taste and thr requirements of the room, firing up into the dark places around the band. Don't try to connect the lights, don't try to control or synchronise them. Just set them to flash, either randomly or in a set repeating pattern. You really don't need any more than that. Job done. I've bought most of the band's lighting from Thomann and I'm very happy with their stuff. My favourite units are https://www.thomann.de/gb/stairville_led_flood_panel_150_40.htm (€38 each) https://www.thomann.de/gb/stairville_led_bar_2408_rgb_dmx_30.htm (€66 each) So buy four of the flood panels (€152) plus one of the bars (€66) and you've spent €218. You'll need a couple of clamp/brackets for the PA polemounts, which will take you over the limit for free delivery. I've also experimented with cheap lasers for pub bands. Surprisingly effective BUT only when used in conjunction with smoke ... and the smoke will set off the pub's fire alarm. If you think the landlord gets pissed off when you trip the noise limiter, wait until you see his response when the Fire Brigade turns up.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALEMBIC-SERIES-2-OMEGA-CUT-5-STRING-CUSTOM-BASS-13-PIECE-NECK-HARDSHELL-CASE-/391718626915?hash=item5b343fe663:g:8c8AAOSw4A5YuAlY

Those Status P-bass necks are simply amazing. The punch and clarity are hard to beat.

The last time I was there was 20 years ago for a County match. With the game pretty much wrapped up there was Curtley Ambrose guarding the boundary in front of us. A bunch of us invited him to come and have a beer with us - so he stepped over the rope and did exactly that.

Never realised that Al was a Montclair boy ... I just assumed the Wailers were all Jamaicans.

Followed this with interest and went to look (online) at the AKG D5. Surprised to find it's only about £15 cheaper than the original SM58 ...

Pick or fingers? I find playing ska lines with a pick leads eventually to cramp, but the 14mm spacing on my Hofners makes playing it fingerstyle a mite tricky.

Nah, you'd never dare put a coffee mug on it in case it left a ring.

I have the current model and I use it all the time. I can put the reference tracks onto an SD card, take the Tascam to a rehearsal, and have instant access to the tracks if the band needs to check back against them. Just use the headphone socket to run the signal through my bass rig or the PA. Play in a different key? Want to change the tempo? Easy. I don't use the record function because I prefer my Zoom H2.

A violin bass is also an archtop, so it is critical that the base of the bridge is in full contact across the radius. It's a tricky job without being particularly difficult. Usually you remove the bridge, place a piece of sandpaper facing UP on the archtop under the bridge position, and then sand down the base by leaving the sandpaper in place while moving the bridge - do you follow? That should create a curved base to the bridge which exactly matches the shape of the bass. Before you decide whether or not to do it, have a really close look at the base of the bridge as it is now. If it has already been contoured in this way then you might be best advised to leave well alone. If on the other hand the base of the bridge is completely flat and therefore only really touching the bass at the inner edges, then it's almost certainly worth doing the contouring because of the improvement you'll get in tone and (maybe) volume. If you want to use the top Hofner luthier in London, drop me a PM.

[URL=http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/h4ppyjack/media/Just%20Stuff/Sundry/pianohouse1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m496/h4ppyjack/Just%20Stuff/Sundry/pianohouse1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='MacDaddy' timestamp='1496920931' post='3314677'] Worthing would be a bit far for those of us coming from that London �� [/quote] [quote name='Graham' timestamp='1496922413' post='3314698'] Surrey's quite far for those of us coming from the south coast [/quote] In truth, the logical home for the "South East Bassbash" would be Central London. Just saying ...

If you liked that then you're gonna LUUURVE this ... http://youtu.be/QsBctMl5t3M

Why thank'ee kindly, young gennelmun, thank'ee.

s/n 1786932 and a gold Made In Japan sticker just beneath.

So if mine is a 1970s Ibanez with a sort-of Toaster pickup and a through neck, does that make it a 2338? And is a 2338b the same but with a bolt-on neck?