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kumimajava

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About kumimajava

  • Birthday 30/11/1981

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    Tokyo

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  1. Not that it's a universal solution, but I have also moved the strap button, from the edge of the bass, onto the back, and a few inches inwards (like Dingwall does in some of their afterburners and their take on the thunderbird). The bass in question is a Tune twb6, which is somewhat notorious for being neck heavy. The strap button move has improved both balance, and the first fret reach
  2. Here's a leftfield idea, in case you also play fretless: just remove the frets, fill the fret-slots with the same material as your fingerboard, and move the bridge. Easy to then add position markers on the side using either paint, or a marker, even stickers. I have, in fact, done this on an (unlined) fretless that I have, to see how much change in comfort I get going from 34 to 33 or 32 inches - the bridge can be moved forward up to 2 inches (after that it hits the "rear" pickup cavity - I suppose I could also go to 30 inches, by skipping he rear-pickup gap & using the neck pickup only). Who knows - perhaps along the way you'll also find that the slightly (now) non-standard positioning of the pickups produces some interesting tones
  3. Hope this is the appropriate place to ask this question - if not, mods, please move it to the correct one. A while back i regisered/bought Scott's "Practice accelerator" course, and recently got some mailings about a his new "Fretboard Accelerator" programme. I'm wondering how much of an overlap/difference there is? Would warmly welcome any input from anyone who's taken both courses - basically, is the "fretboard accelerator" worth the extra, if i've already subscribed to the practice accelerator from before Thanks!
  4. Looks great - I'd have a quick question about the cover-mounted output jack (since I'm considering modding one of my basses this way): how does work for playing the bass in "classical" position, on the left leg? does the output cable get in the way, or do you find that there's enough clearance? Thanks - and will watch with interest how this progresses!
  5. Can you please tell me what is the scale length? 34 or 35? Also, what is the string spacing and weight? Thanks!
  6. I had not seen that before - thanks for pointing it out, it looks fantastic! The Nova headless kit seems to be a nice fit, too!
  7. Thanks for clarifying that - I'd be most curious to see how the headless-mod works out ... as a fan of headless basses, it's an idea that sounds rather attractive
  8. Looks great - am just considering getting one of these myself - but there is precious little info on the 5-string variant. if you don't mind me asking: how does it balance? Any hints of neck-dive? The shape looks very Jaguar-ish, and both Jaguars that I had dived something fierce Hoping this one doesn't!
  9. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  10. I believe there are fretted versions too. Nice basses and a great suggestion The extra weight of the frets allows them to remain grounded even on an instrument stand
  11. It's certainly the lightest 5-string I've played, and balances indeed rather well. For me, there was no immediately noticeable benefit of the "Endurneck", though I liked the 35-33 inch fanned fret layout better than Dingwall's super-long-scale 37-34 inches. Then again, the Dingwall Super Series 35-32 inches, to me, feels better still. At the end of the day - it comes down a value vs ergonomics proposition. Weight-wise, I think the Strandberg was about 250-300g lighter than a Status Streamline 5-string, which you can get custom-specced for around £2k; plenty of definition on the Streamline's low-B too, given that it's all carbon, and build quality is miles apart. If you're after not super-long fanned fret basses, then the Dingwall S's come into the picture. Of course, if you want super-light + fanned-frets, then this is pretty much your only option - for now. That's my experience, so far, anyway - would be curious to hear what you think once you've had a go
  12. I've played a few of these, and my comments are in the posts below, in the a thread from a while back, with other members' opinions too. Sadly - we seem to be broadly in agreement... A great shame, since expectations were high, and many of us were hopeful
  13. This is fairly typical, seen it on my Modulus Sonic Hammer and a few Vigiers. In my case, superglue has worked well to fill in the cracks and restore a smooth feeling to the clearcoat. Had also, in most cases, stopped the chips getting bigger. Sometimes a visible trace still remains, if the superglue is too viscous to get to the very bottom/edge of the crack, but this is purely a visual issue. After appropriate sanding and polishing, the finish is fully smooth. Hope that helps.
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