Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Chiliwailer

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    2,677
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chiliwailer

  1. You're spot on, just go about it as you would a regular truss rod. I use the 1&2 and then 3&4 strings fretted on the 1st and last fret to check out what adjustment is needed on each rod. People have various methods of checking out the neck relief via the strings, it's a great way to do it as the string in tension gives you a perfect straight line. I do it by sight and experience, others by business cards or measurements. Double the fun!
  2. Lurvely! 2 eq -
  3. A Cedar appreciation bump. For this kind of money Cedar is real winner if you're looking for a warm and aged tone. They generally have tons of personality and depth.
  4. [quote name='jassbass' timestamp='1406546214' post='2512246'] The pots number is r1378226 So is that 78? Thanx [/quote] 26th week of 1982. 137 = CTS code
  5. Play as many as you can mate, we all have such wildly differing opinions on taste, expectations and choices, and these can sound quite foreign to others opinions. Obviously the more you spend, the better the wood and components. Some people notice the difference, some don't. But the 'level' you need to reach for is down to you and your bass needs. Play a load and you'll see where you fit into the market. Good luck finding that Jazz, they are sweet basses!
  6. These are hard switches to replace, tons of unsoldering is needed to get the board out and jack sockets out, absolute headache. It's a weird switch too, but is worth taking it apart as much as you can...there is a washer type thing that has a grip to keep the switch in place, sounds like that has come loose.
  7. I see you have a Ricky too, which is a lovely top quality bass. If you're used to the good stuff then a new pickup may not be the answer. Each bass has it's own natural tone, and if that tone isn't a good one, a better pickup will only highlight that more. Sorry for the negative post, but it can be like putting a Ferrari engine into a Ford Focus - yes it'd make a difference but you wouldn't get the full potential of the pickup and it may highlight weaknesses in the bass.
  8. Thanks, replied via PM [b]EDIT: [/b]Muri decided not to come over so it's still up for grabs
  9. Yeah, very hard to tell considering that dealers price anything old high regardless of the true value. I won't harp on about 70's prices as there's probably a ton of threads on here already doing that. An early 80's one could go for as little as £700 as a private sale (worst case scenario) or as much as £1400 depending on where it's being sold and who's buying it. If you're selling it, then priced to sell helps so pick a price you're comfortable with in that region and give it a pop. For insurance purposes always go high, in my opinion. In reality, we'll probably all have different ideas of value on a bass like this.
  10. [quote name='tom skool' timestamp='1405114440' post='2499032'] I love the look of the 51 precision but Im not sure I'd be happy with that tiny single coil pup. [/quote] Just a note on the original pickup if it helps....I have a Custom Shop '55 Precision with a stacked version of the pickup, sounds absolutely huge, especially with heavy flats. It knocked the stuffing out of my old 1966 Precision Bass so that went to the market...
  11. Stunning bass and definitely fuelling my GAS for another Ric
  12. [quote name='jazzyvee' timestamp='1405710088' post='2504666'] Maybe there is some truth in the idea that a lot of the sound is in the fingers as other people I hear playing jazz basses live sound really good. [/quote] That's true, seen it happen many a time. I love Jazz Basses, but they are all so different and can have different specs so it's a case of finding one that suits those fingers of yours. They are true killers live, clarity and warmth with a great balance. [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1405710812' post='2504674'] At last! A paint job that actually suits a pearl guard!! [/quote] Absolutely, I never thought I'd EVER own a bass with a pearl guard, but then this happened....... [attachment=167036:P1060148.JPG]
  13. [b]PRICE DROP £600[/b] Up for sale is my 1990-1991 USA Jazz Bass Std. It's all original aside from what I believe to be an after market tort pickguard (i think these should be white). It plays great and is in good condition for its age. I've taken pictures of some knocks. This bass sounds awesome, very solid and with typical Jazz Bass articulation. It has a full and tight tone that comes from lots of natural bass response in the background and with lovely punchy mids and clean highs, especially when both pickups are on. These basses came with a TBX tone pot, which is centered in the middle. "[b][i][color=#333333]The Treble Bass Expander (TBX) is a detented, stacked 250K / 1Meg control that enhances your tonal palette. It functions as a standard tone control from 1 to 5; after 5 it decreases resistance, letting more bass, treble, presence and output flow to your amp. No battery necessary".[/color][/i][/b] It weighs in at 9.38lbs, that's typical for a Jazz Bass. The serial number is E9 but the original pots date to early 1991. The E9 serial number was officially used for 1989 & 1990 (though we all know what Fender are like with their serial numbers...). I reckon the parts were made in 1990 and finally assembled in 1991. It's a 'long horn' style (though some call it 'the boner' ) - USA Std Jazz Basses made between 1989 and 1994-ish had 22 fret necks, so to accommodate this the body horns were altered. The extra frets and recessed lower body horn are great for chord work or noodling around the high end. The scale length on these is the same as a regular Jazz Bass and the body isn't really any bigger or heavier, just a little altered. I like the way the upper horn is extended as this helps balance the bass nicely on a strap. Comes with a hard case. Trade wise I'd be more into unlined fretless basses, but feel free to PM me an offer just in case it hits my GAS spot [b]LINK TO PICTURES: [/b][url="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1n7t3rgjh7tyj88/AAAAA5gLq_5TpcN8mP0igm_Wa"]https://www.dropbox....5TpcN8mP0igm_Wa[/url] [attachment=166640:P1060700.JPG]
  14. [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1404764313' post='2495557'] Fret buzz up at the higher frets indicates too much relief which is what you've induced by loosening the truss rod too much. I tend to set the action at the 17th fret and I go for about 5/64" on the E and 4/64" on the G. [/quote] +1 Summer heat will often loosen your rod (in guitar speak, that is...... )
  15. [b]PRICE DROP: £525[/b]. It's a 1980 version, is set up well with Thomastik's and has a killer tone. (I can change the strings to regular light flats or used roundwounds if preferred). It has an awesome ebony fingerboard with plenty of 'mwah' indeed. The onboard controls give a huge amount of variety too which is a bonus I'll most likely miss. The bass has volume and tone controls for the passive mode (though the tone also works when active), 3 band EQ, gain control for the preamp, active / passive switch and 3 way pickup selector. The preamp has a low background noise when switched on, I've tried to research this and some say they were always like this in the early 80's and other people say that they develop this way. I can't imagine what old components would cause this through age (I think dodgy capacitors give a sound like an earth hum?) so I believe the preamp may have always been this way - please correct me if I'm wrong [b]EDIT:(though please see the posts below which suggest I'm right!)[/b]. The background noise is similar to a single coil hum and is more noticeable when the active tone controls are pushed up. It been well loved in the past and has marks from all those years of use to prove it. It has replacement Schaller tuners and is missing one of the gold Sure Grip knobs. Comes with a hard case. Cheers! LINK TO PICTURES - [url="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8nw6a6khvqibrkc/AADdChpIywrwjr4xetc_GGqma"]https://www.dropbox....rwjr4xetc_GGqma[/url] [attachment=166223:P1060693.JPG] [attachment=166225:p13.jpg] [attachment=166226:Page10.jpg]
  16. [quote name='jassbass' timestamp='1404664675' post='2494533'] Mine might be 80's then [/quote] Given that it has white plastic parts I reckon it's safe to say it is.That's ok though, it's still a very cool bass. The only 3 ways to really date it - 1) take off the neck and check if there is a stamp. 2) take out the pickups to see if they are dated 3) the final and easiest way to get an idea is to look at the pots. This is super easy to do, just remove the 3 screws on the control plate and look at the pots for a code, I've attached a picture for you to see. You're looking for the code starting 137 or 304 depending on the type of pot they used (because of the Strat knobs it could be either but is probably 137 as they are better for those knobs). Though this isn't a definitive way to date the bass it may give you a pretty good clue. .[attachment=166221:CTS-1978-1meg-Pot2.jpg]
  17. [quote name='tonyclaret' timestamp='1404663370' post='2494510'] Yeah, sorry mine dates to 1980. Haven't checked the pots and pick ups. Need to do a bit more research perhaps. [/quote] Researching Fender can sometimes be like a dog chasing its tail....
  18. [quote name='jassbass' timestamp='1404647382' post='2494367'] I hope its a 78 aswell.sounds great.just put some newer strings on.sounds just like a jazz should So far.as long as I havnt lost money on the deal and sounds like it should im happy [/quote] That looks sweet, good catch! If you need any help deciphering the pots or pickup codes just take and peek and post them, The pots dating code should start 304 if they are stack pole pots or 137 if they are regular (due to the Strat knobs)
  19. [quote name='tonyclaret' timestamp='1404646062' post='2494355'] Not strictly true, I'm led to believe. I have one with dots and after some research apparently there were quite a few made with dotted fret boards. Although can't believe every high you read on the net. I bloody hope so though! [/quote] Really, a 1978 with dots? I'd love to get a look at that. Are the pots and pickups dated to '78 too? I always thought that the transition was from late 1980.... Just to note, though many sites, including Fender, state that the S8 serial number was used for 1978, they were often used until a lot later if Fender were clearing out old necks, for instance on the International Colour series which came out in 1981 and used old 70's parts. It could be that the info on the net is of people who have had early 80's ones with dots and S8 or S9 logo's and presumed it to have been made in '78 or '79. Though perhaps they used some of the necks with dots and serialed E0 in 1979 to trial them? Would be pretty cool and quite rare if they exist. At the end of the day though, I'm just interested in the Fender oddities, it shouldn't really matter at all what year the bass is
  20. Must be going through a killer valve head too.....oh for that house in the country....
  21. Nice grooves! Sounds likes a Fender Jazz Bass to me, possibly even an ash body with rosewood fingerboard as it's got some lovely boom.
  22. That could very well be a 1980-2 with a 1978 serial number. Good price then.
×
×
  • Create New...