Painy

Seems one of the most popular topics on here is which size driver to use, with the obligatory response always surfacing that larger cones don't mean more bass / smaller cones don't mean punchier etc. So my question is, what difference does driver size actualy make to the sound? If there's really no difference between them then why do we need the range of sizes we have available?

Hello Pat. Was that the blue ATK I borrowed off you to save me from the weight of my Warwick Corvette when I put my back out or that all woodgrain finish jobbie you had afterwards? Both nice bases but I was surprised when you let the woodgrain one go so soon after getting it. It did look pretty special!

[quote name='Dig' timestamp='1381267809' post='2236862'] Here's my Ken Smith BSR6GN, it has the lowest action of any bass I've played. It plays like butter, with a great neck, beautiful construction and versatile electrics. The last five digits of the serial number are FVP11 which stand for [color=#000000]F= Figured maple[/color] [color=#000000]V= 5 pc body wings[/color] [color=#000000]P= Presentation grade 4a figure in the maple (USA grown English Sycamore, old growth)[/color] [color=#000000]11 = 2011, the year made. [/color] [color=#000000]The body core is western figured maple, quilt/flame, the dark laminates are walnut, sawn from 1" stock and all matched. [/color] [color=#000000]The heel cap is tiger maple from British Columbia/western Canada and the smaller cam touching the neck is Shedua. The body strips to the nack/body joint are shedua and the neck is maple and shedua. [/color] [/quote] That right there would be my absolute, ultimate dream bass! If you ever find yourself in desperate need of a kidney..... 😜

Many years ago I mentioned to my nan that I was looking for a new acoustic guitar but wanted a steel strung one. Bless her heart she went out and found the most hideously warped old classical guitar you've ever seen with steel strings on it from a second hand junk shop and bought it for me! Can't say I'd have recommended it.

EBay item number 380958111406 😃

Another vote here for the Hercules. I have the double and because the legs spread out much wider than on the singles (I had 2 singles before I bought the double) it stays really stable with just one bass on it. It also takes my Cort A6 fine although it is quite snug so I'd imagine something like a Warwick broadneck 6er might be pushing it a bit. Durability wise - I've had mine about 6 years which means around 300 gigs plus practices and the rest of the time my basses live on it at home and it still works exactly like it did the day I got it!

Just an update. After last night's gig and a bit of experimentation by setting everything flat to start off with then going from there, I think I've got it sorted! I know everyone extoles the virtues of lots of mids to cut through but I guess I just like that scooped sound. when I rolled off the mids a bit, it really let the fat bottom end come through and with the treble boosted a touch it gave it a nice bite too. Bearing in mind it was an outdoor gig (with around 300 people in the crowd) the bass sounded like thunder but clear, defined and punchy without trying to compete in the same frequencies as the guitars! Really glad I tried a fresh approach to setting my eq before messing with my bass. Thanks all for the advice!

My old SGC Nanyo fiver is my only 'one that got away' bass. Oh dear... Think I may have just given myself GAS!

Is funny. When I posted this I thought I'd better not mention what a 'little Hitler' the seller seemed to be incase he was a bc member but I guess there's no pulling punches here. It's possible the seller is crazier than the item he's selling!

I just used those extra long matches on mine and sanded them flat! Works a treat

Just seen a listing on eBay - item number 151368795060 if you want to have a look. A Peavey 3620 cab containing 2 18" drivers topped off with a further 2 10s. I could actually feel my vertebrae starting to turn to dust just looking at the pictures! I'm sure it sounds volcanic but what on earth would possess anyone to design such a thing?

Just to add the SVT 450h has actually now been discontinued anyway.

[quote name='Big_Stu' timestamp='1406577039' post='2512698'] Or Dave Clark with a bad memory. [/quote] Lol. That thought had actually already occurred to me!

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1406640641' post='2513305'] Never read so much diatribe in a thread that has nought to do with the OPs question. I would find the ccorrect frequencies you want to boost before buying a unit that may not do it. And stay away from anything that cheap, it will no doubt be about as usefull as a chocolate fireguard. [/quote] Was kind of thinking, set everything flat then boost each frequency on the graphic one at a time and see which frequency best fills the gap in the sound that I'm looking for (bearing in mind of course that each frequency will have an effect on the others) and take it from there. To be honest I've moved away from the really cheap idea and found what looks like a decent preamp on ebay for a reasonable but not stupidly cheap price that also has some really good reviews online (mainly on talkbass). Just remains to check if the frequencies available well be what I'm looking for i guess.

Mmmm... Fireguard. Err.... Hey, wot?!?

Certainly worth a try. I had been thinking about starting from scratch with everything flat on the bass and the amp and take it from there anyway so I'll give it a go before messing around with the electrics.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1406619153' post='2512972'] @Painy - it might well be that the bass boost is adding to frequencies that don't contribute greatly to the perceived volume levels (I think that filter is centred on the sub-bass region where your rig will struggle to amplify it well) and you've got a bit of a hole in the bass frequencies (though where the bass and mids cross on that graph is about 150Hz which is about D3, the 12th fret on the D string so it ain't that 'low'). However, if you've a chance to boost in the 100 to 300Hz region (via an EQ pedal or amp) then that might help... [/quote] Thanks, that's kinda what I've been doing to compensate (my amp has 3 band rotary and 9 band graphic eq) and it certainly gets me 90% of the way but the amount of boost I'm having to use on those frequencies means the onboard limiter is going into overdrive to control it. I'd rather get the signal how I want it at the input stage where I can tame it by setting the input gain control. I much prefer as few pedals as possible in the signal chain as I do find they take something away from the tone themselves (just a true bypass tuner for me) hence I was looking at a replacement pre. I'm now looking at preamp in the not quite so cheap and nasty but still affordable price range (Tone Monster) which has some pretty good reviews online.

Let me see... My step mum managed the Who's fan club back in the 70s and is still in touch with Roger Daltrey. I knew Paul Samson (of NWOBHM band Samson - Bruce Dickinson's band before Maiden) when he was alive and Samson's old bass player, Chris Aylmer, played with one of my old bands before I joined but I got to know him pretty well too. Did once have a guy turn up to audition for an old band who claimed to be Dave D of Dave D, Dozey, Beakey , Mick & Titch but seeing as he said he was the drummer and Dave D was actually the singer I'm inclined to think that he was just lying.

Well it can manage straight root notes okay but I'd like to see it have a go at a John Pattitucci solo!

[quote name='joeystrange' timestamp='1406233007' post='2509682'] And that guy is Gary Sinise. He plays bass in Gary Sinise & the Lt. Dan Band. He also once played in an episode of CSI:NY. [/quote] Gary Sinise is actually listed as an endorsee on the Cort website!

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1406293238' post='2510270'] Apparently this is the response for the Bartolini Mk1 so the bass looks to be centred around 25Hz - the difference you're hearing is going to be a combination of pickup response, preamp design and possibly also the body and neck construction. [/quote] That's interesting. So could it actually be that the bass is centred so low that most of the boosted signal is actually out of audible range hence the lack of perceived low end?

Check the '6 string advice' thread a few threads down from here. Woodster's post. He seems very keen on his K6! Personally I have major GAS for one of these myself - just lacking the funds right now

Hi all, hoping for some advice as despite playing for nearly 20 years I've never really dabbled in the electronics side of things. My current main gigging bass is a Cort A6 which is great to play and looks good but I'm not loving the Bartolini Mk1 preamp. Treble and mids are fine but the bass control, while very responsive, just doesn't give me the full sounding low end I get from my Warwick Corvette. I believe the Warwick's bass control is centred at around 45hz. Not sure about the Cort but I'd guess it's probably more around the 85hz mark. Anyway, as I'm currently more skint than a very skint person and the Aguilar OBP-3 I was watching on eBay is spiralling out of my price range, I've been looking in desperation at a very cheap unit on there (just £5 from China!) which is centred on the same frequencies as the OBP-3 (40hz, 400hz & 4kHz) albeit at +/- 12dB rather than +/-16dB. So, opinions please on whether the cheap unit is worth a try or likely to be complete garbage?

I have a Cort A6 as my main gigging bass and the build quality and playability are great but I am considering upgrading the pre as the bass control frequency doesn't give quite as full a sound as I'd like but then that's my preference. As for the Bass Mods K6 I have serious GAS for one in white with matching headstock, black plate and hardwear and block inlays so if I was spending my money again I'd go for one of those over the A6.