Chienmortbb

I would echo most of what has been said on here except to say beware of fakes. I am sure that a lot of Neutrik ended cables use fake plugs and of course even Neutrik have expensive and cheaper ranges. I have jusr been given a trade acoount by Sommer and theit HiCon range is interesting. Especially the plugs designed to go with the Tricone XXL and Spirit LLC cables. HI-J63TC-SM I will be testing them soon .

I hope your tingue if firmly in your cheek there Stevie.

BBOT works but I agree about the Gotoh. It is the 203B model I Think https://g-gotoh.com/product/203b-4/?lang=en

Except on a flute/penny whistle where it is, to all intents and purposes, a sine wave

Sadly there has been no progress since my last post. I have been clearing our the garage, so I can use it as a workshop and then roof needed fixing, As it is due to rain tomorrow the temporary repairs will go on after dinner tonight but I hope to get someghing done this weekend.

Just seen that Richards Guitars now stock them, only the basic models but £549 https://rguitars.co.uk/pages/search-results-page?collection=bass&page=1. CORRECTION. They show them on the website but say they cannot source as the UK distributor has changed.

Ywes but there was a Fender Japan sales company that oversaw matters and kept them in line. Incidently the new Fujigen basses are probably the best production jazz basses around.

I hear something from Sussex. On a more serious note though Phil is right. Cone diameter is just one of many things that contribute to a driver's performance, albeit an important one. Remember no one, whether in Brighton, California, deepest Essex, London, Germany or the Netgherlands can alter the laws of physics. Alex himslf makes use of them in the intricate design of his cabs.

I should’ve said that although I’m by using that basic circuit, I will be using the JRE4556 Opamp, capable of twice the current of the OPA2134. I published the original CMoy circuit as a reference. Some really good info on the circuit is at https://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/05/cmoy-ebay-headphone-amp.html

Those early Japanese Squiers ars sought after. They were probably made at one of the Fender Japan factories.

Incidently the thin pencil line above the serial number label is where the wooden back of the cabinet comes to. It will be removed before the unit is reassembled. So on to the headphone output. Traditionaly this has been a potted version of the output sent to the speaker (see ESP's take on this) but as we are using a bridged amp, we cannot use that method. So I will be using a headphone amplifier based on the original CMOY head phone amp, click here to see the original design. . It uses a dual opamp and the PCB is very small. There will be some changes to the circuit especially the opmp. I wil be using the JRE4556 which has twice the current capacity of the OPA2134. More on components later. Here is the pcb. It is about 20mm x 50mm (3/4" x 2").

No pictures today but I got the XLR from Sommer today. It has gold pins and matches the gold writing on the back panel. Tomorrow I will paint over the legend that is no longer needed. It is masked, sanded and ready for spaying. Some more silly pictures. I had no black screws so while the spray can was out......, lyou can see that the new paint is blacker than the old but mainly because it has the look of just sprayed gloss. I could go over the whole panel with some clear coat to even that out but it’s the back and it looks OK. The eagle eyed among you will notice the the screws are shifted down a little but I am happy with the result. So next question. Do I need to have the output ground referenced. I was going to fit a ground lift switch but wonder whether to just hardwire it, either with, or without a ground?

Sadly those luxuries are far beyond what most of us weekend warriors can dream of. However it does suggest Horses for courses and although my head has a DI out, I always have my Orchid DI on the pedal board just in case. The irony is that 4 out of 5 times I have to loan it to get someone else out of a jam.

I also tried the new port inside the old port, sealed with copious amounts of dense foam draught excluder. Actually I did cut it to 180mm (about 7”). It is better but still not as good as I hoped. I am going to add an HPF (High Pass Filter) and once free to do so, take it to Guru @stevie for a blessing.

At least one Charlie, Well I have moved the power module and the Speakon and I can just fit the fan if I decide to do so but it is really tight, I suspect a 60mm fan 10mm thick would be ideal but initially I will hope that conventional cooling works.

The current ones are just good old 7x15s and with through a full range 8" PA speaker the noise is barely perceptable, with both volunes at full and ears to the tweeter. The current ones are fine but they are not too pleasing on the eye, and take up a lot of room. I have a bunch of LM317/337 PCBs that I could put in but I am not sure how well they perform. The specs are +/-15V at 200mA.I could probably get away with 100mA but as I seem to be using that as a test bed, I need a little in hand.

Would have been nice to hear music through them.lol. It was like there were holes in the response on the ART745. I remember a similar feeling when the Ramsa WS-AT200 rep;laced the WS-A200. The WS-A200 was a brick sh*thouse od a speaker. Those of a certain age may rememebr the add where an elephant was standing on 4 of them. Above is the WS-A200 Half inch thick resin cabinet reinforced with wooden braces. and ribbed all round for added strength. The WS-AT200 replacec it and was a ppile of pants, nmade to a price and the fashoionable trapezoid shape, Much thinner injectuiion moulded palstic and a sound to match despite reasonable drivers. I heard similar differences in those.

Well the beauty of DIY is that you learn as you go. You might say you learn by your mistakes and anyone reading this thread will know that I am learning lots. From trying to use a vinyl sheet cabinet covering rather than Tuffcab to not fusing the auxiliary supplies from the ICEPower module. In the case of the speaker cabinet tuning I have also made a mistake. A casual glance at the excursion graphs showed significant extra excursion around 40 Hz. This is roughly the fundamental of the E string on a four string bass tuned EADG. I tuned the cabinet too high and tried to use a commercial 75 mm (3”) tuning port, rather than designing the cabinet for optimum performance and then sourcing the best port for the job. It appears that standard 68mm rainwater downpipe would have been better and I will be trying that later. As the hole for the existing port is approximately 80 mm there will have to be some cabinet reworking. That is the part that hurts the most as the cabinet looked really good and I’m going to have to work really hard to get it anywhere near that good again. Revisiting the cabinet modelling, I have also decided to incorporate a High Pass Filter to further tame the response and ultra low frequencies. Implementing the High Pass Filter will require another small board so more metalwork to add to moving the power module. The question the is, do I go the whole way and replace the tatty strip board power regulator board? That means more metal work. Hey ho!

Separate supplies do offer more flexibility i layout i agree but thwe overal size of two modules is likley to be bigger espescially when the extra real estate for monting is considered. Of course the Hypex topology should be superiior.

I have looked at HYPEX before but found them just as hard to get information as ICEPower. I contatcted them and they pointed me to their DIY site.Sdaly that only has separate power amplifiers and the beuaty of the ICEPower and OEM Hypex modules is the intergrated mains and auxilliary power supplies.