Chienmortbb
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Everything posted by Chienmortbb
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I had some Van Damme some years ago. No matter what connector I used, the inner broke about 4 cm from the end of the plug on a regular basis. In the end I used it for pedal board patch cables as they did not move. Since then, I have only used Sommer and Klotz. I recently had to repair a cable with Van Damme XKE cable, and it certainly did not persuade me that it was worth changing to.
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Cable and Connector Information for the Musician
Chienmortbb replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Accessories and Misc
Line Micropone. -
Cable and Connector Information for the Musician
Chienmortbb replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Accessories and Misc
Speaker -
Cable and Connector Information for the Musician
Chienmortbb replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Accessories and Misc
Mains Cables -
Cable and Connector Information for the Musician
Chienmortbb replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Accessories and Misc
Instrument Cables In the early days, guitar cables were made from simple coaxial cable and basic 1/4" or 6-35mm diameter phone plugs. -
I have been thinking about this for some time. There is so much hype in the worlds of Music and HIFI, and it is sometimes a waste of time trying to push back against the bullshine and marketing, but I have decided to put some of my knowledge (probably including my own prejudices) down to help others. This first post will be updated when required, especially if someone asks a question that I have not already covered. So check back here occasionally to see any updates. Types of Cable As musicians, we are likely to use some or all of the following cables on a regular basis. Instrument Leads - usually using a coaxial, screened cable terminated with 1/4", 6.35 mm phone plugs at each end. Mains Leads - usually three core with a UK/SHUKO plug top at one end and an IEC C14, 10 amp connector at the other. Speaker leads - usually a SpeakON connector at each end. Legacy products may have 6.35 mm phone plugs. Microphone/Balanced Leads to connect the various parts of the PA and rack systems together via 3 pin XLRs. There are many leads/cables used, but the ones noted above cover the ones musicians use daily.
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Call Trevor at Sontronics. He is very helpful.
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Of course, you are correct. I was merely pointing out one of the benefits of an analogue system. There is an argument that A-D/D-A conversions degrade the sound and while that might be true in the strictest sense, I doubt it is audible.
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It was quite common in the coiled cables in the 60s/70s. The green goo will be to do with the formation of Copper Oxide (Verdigris). Any uncoated/untreated copper will go a green/blue colour, but why it turns gooey is beyond me.
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Of course the delay AKA latency is negligible with analogue systems.
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Try the Halo https://www.sontronics.com/halo
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I prefer the 60s original.
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Last time I was looking, every bass body was out of stock.
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I move the band PA speakers as well as my bass rig and choose the Ford Puma as the PA speakers fit in the Megabox of the boot. Then my Cab goes on top of those and the cable boxes, amp, lights, pedal board etc piled alll around. The bass goes inside.
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I am now completely handbag-less. I rely on PIT, Pockets In Trousers.
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Ouch!
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Of course, and with my pedant's hat on, there is no such thing as an ampless setup. There are always amplifiers twixt the instrument and our ears, so I suppose that we are discussing backline, amplification on stage, controlled by the musician. As an Electronic Engineer by trade, some of those pedal boards look like hum and noise generators, but each to his own. I suppose my advice would be to keep the number of individual devices between you and the FOH input as low as possible. Get a good power supply, one that is really isolated. If it costs less than £80 it probably is not isolated. In an isolated supply, each output has isolated 0V lines, so no noise or unwanted signal is fed into other pedals via the power lines.
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Amen to that.
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To be honest, I was into Trapeze before Purple, so only really listened to Purple when Hughes and Coverdale joined. I think those two voices together were insane.
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Might just take your life is a great track. Oh yes.
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This sale is for a pair of Laney Audiohub AH115 speakers. These are rebranded versions of the HH Vector and are a good quality Mid-Range PA Speaker. These have been gigged once and always in a Citronic protective bags. They are in very good condition/virtually pristine as they have never been transported without the bags. These are stock pictures, I will upload real images as soon as I can take them. I love them, but have now got a smaller car. They have always been transported in the provided padded bags. Includes mains leads. They can be used on a speaker stand or as a floor monitor. There are handles on both sides and on the top, they are really easy to handle and there are small wheels on the back to save carrying them on smooth surfaces (of course they would have to be out of the bags for that). You can use these with a separate mixer or the 3 input mixer onboard. There are 2 mic/line inputs plus a 3.5mm input, so you can connect from a phone or tablet. You can also play back from an SD card, USB card or Bluetooth. You can also link the two speakers using Bluetooth using True Wireless Stereo. (TWS) for stereo operation. Weight 15kg/ 33lbs Dimensions: 715mm x 465mm x 380mm (HWD) Can post via Parcel force for £20. Features: Integrated 3 channel mixer 15” woofer & 1” compression driver 35mm pole stand fitting Integrated MP3 player 800 Watts Lightweight and portable Bluetooth enabled Play music Via USB or Memory Stick XLR Mix out socket Mini-jack inputs -
I have built cabinets where both have come adrift, and then you have a pig of a job to get the driver in/out. I have a loose rattling insert on my After Eight modded combo that I need to fix now, but in all honesty I have had more trouble with T Nuts. A No 10 wood screw can hold 35Kgs minimum, into wood, so 4 give you 140Kg withdrawal force. 8 would give you 280 Kb. Of course, an M4 or bigger, machine screw holds much more. However, the T Nut is an interference fit into the baffle but, unlike a nail, does not have a parallel shank. So does not resist a backward force well. Threaded inserts threads do not always align well with the plys of the plywood baffle.
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I only put this up for discussion, but if you used a suitable block of scrap wood behind the screwholes, together with eight reasonably large screws. That would hold the driver firmly in place without T-Nuts or threaded inserts. I have tried all three methods, and both T Nuts and threaded inserts are less than ideal.
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The Everbuild Adhesives also have a superior tip to the Evostick ones. However, having studied Adhesives, there is very little difference in the glues. Some are biased to fast drying, some for longer free time, but all are "stronger than the wood itself". If you want to be picky, the non-waterproof ones are stronger.
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Try an Orchid DI. http://orchid-electronics.co.uk/classic_DI.htm I have two of them and they are great.
