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Undertone

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Everything posted by Undertone

  1. Great, thankyou. So next question is then something like: Does tube gear more generally need AC power ? That is, this power unit normally powers a Reussenzehn BassMax tube pre-amp (12-15V), which is kind of a pedal (has stomp switches etc.). But pedals usually take DC. So is it the tube nature of this product that causes it to require AC, or something else do you think? I've contacted the guy in Germany who makes these but he's not responding and forum searches seem to suggest he's known for being cantankerous. The label on the pre-amp has worn so as to be illegible. This power supply came with it but it's and EU plug (I know I can use an adapter) but I was hoping to replace with with a UK plug version. Finally, it needs 12-15V; am I likely to get better performance from 15V vs 12V? (I'm assuming there's no internal voltage doubling / step-up going on). Thanks again
  2. I wonder if anyone could assist please. This power adapter seems to say AC / AC Adapter. It has the usual pedal pin (centre negative) attachment. Does this make sense? Is it AC / AC (ie. just voltage change) or AC / DC? I googled the brand & model number and it seems to say AC / DC, but why does it say AC / AC on the unit? Typo? Thanks
  3. Seems odd no comments - folks worried about upsetting EBS?
  4. Do Sadowsky Japanese Moderns (the M5-24) have the VTC?
  5. So both anps can't be used with a single full range cab?
  6. No interest?
  7. I just bought an EBS OctaBass Blue label (which is actually a green label) and there's strange behaviour going on with it. Perhaps someone can assist or let me know if it's common. I bought it used but near new from someone on Basschat. I set it to what in the user manual terms Classic configuration, the Normal (dry) knob at full clockwise, Tone at midway, and Octave knob around 2 'O clock (60-65%). This is because I want to hear a reasonably strong and distinct octave, as an effect, rather than just fatten up the sound a bit. I have the range switch set at High, and play up around the 12th fret on the 1st (G) string and above (in soloistic quick & slow passages). I'm using an Alembic Europa active bass and I get the same results described below whether I boost the bass a bit, and whether I use a passive Fender P or J bass (also relatively regardless of their tone control settings) even if very slightly less so. No other effects in the signal. The thing tracks really well as expected, but I get a LOT of extraneous noise and clicks from it trying to produce octaves for string and finger noise - but those noises are virtually INAUDIBLE in my original signal and unplugged (please excuse my apparent hubris but I've been a stickler for technique for decades and my right hand muting and left hand's finger technique are as they should be). Yet it's still trying to produce octaves for the minutest of noises - yielding a sound with clicks in it, like a geiger-counter, muddying up my playing. Very disappointing as I was looking forward to the reputed tracking associated with this piece of gear. Now, reducing the Octave knob improves the result, but it reduces the Octave signal, defeating the purpose of using the unit. Rolling the Tone knob off significantly reduces the clicking but it's still there with duller tone, but so too the octave is duller, sounding less distinct and less sharp, which is not what I want. I have a Micro POG (digital I think) which doesn't have this problem - I was hoping to retain such great tracking but in an analog pedal such as the OctaBass, I'll try an MXR at some stage but I don't feel this should be happening with the EBS. Anyone else come across this with the OctaBass blue? Any useful comments or advice? Thanks
  8. Hi - has the fingerboard been stained darker please? Thanks
  9. A return flight to Athens in early December is currently less than £100 with Easyjet folks. Great excuse for a short break, warmer weather, great food, and saving bunch of money in VAT... Just an idea.
  10. I played one of these at Bass Gallery not long ago. Lighter than average weight and played & sounded great. I was rather surprised as I'd not previously heard of them. Considered getting one myself but I've no need for another 4-string. GLWTS
  11. Good information. Thanks.
  12. Yes that was for you peteb - thanks for the response. That would have been my approach but for some reason couldn't get it to work. Perhaps it will now that I better understand the amp.
  13. Flat beer??? Certainly not, master! Yeah, flat's just a starting point. And yes, I had it at cut, expecting a centre detent to indicate flat (perhaps I'm spoilt...) Re manual - it doesn't say it in the manual but it's in the suggested settings pictures... Was odd for me too as I'm used to gain stage optimising the pre-amp first, then moving to the power amp (master (different master...)). When you say that's not how you use it, where do you have Gain and Master for live performance?
  14. I took the afternoon off work, went home and played around with the amp given all the above information. It all works as exactly as you describe - phew - damn thing made a fool out of me. Anyway, all good now - thanks so much all. Despite being a Trace devotee for so long, I really like the tone of this amp - and now I can keep it.
  15. OK. Thanks folks. I guess it must be in there somewhere and I'll have to work more on finding it. Thanks.
  16. By the way, anyone know a good bass amp tech in London who really knows what they're doing please (with an SVT-3 Pro)? (In case the biasing needs adjustment in future) Otherwise it's off to Milton Keynes.
  17. Yep. Thanks. Aside from that, driving the volume hard is going to make the sound more overdriven I presume (even with Valve knob fully clockwise)? I'm after a cleaner rather than dirtier sound (but with a little girth). Do we feel the SVT-3 Pro does that? Perhaps this amp was a wrong choice on my part? I do have a SVP-CL pre-amp too, perhaps I should use that, routed to the power section of the SVT-3 Pro? But I think the drive in the SVT-3 comes from the power section anyway, no? Have patience with the Ampeg newbie...
  18. Yeah - I really like the tone. Odd that a prestigious name like Ampeg produces and underpowered amp for 450W. I looked at the SVT-6 but it's 750W at even 8 Ohms, which is overkill for some stuff I do (or is it?...) and 6kg heavier. Doesn't seem right that a quality name amp should require the EQ boosted to produce adequate volume... Back to learning what I can get out of it - but I'm fighting the feeling that it's eventually going to have to be sold.. Very disappointing as I was excited by the prospect of trying Ampeg and its several tubes after so many years... But as others have said, I'll put the effort it for a while & see how it goes. Ta.
  19. Where in the manual does it say that (other than pictures of some suggested settings)? I see 12. Master "Use to control the overall output level.Use it wisely and turn it down when making connections or trying something new." That doesn't sound like 'keep it maxed out'. For Gain, I see 5. Gain - "This varies the amount of signal driving the preamplifier. If a small clockwise rotation from minimum leads to overloading and the Peak LED [4] illuminating, try engaging the –15 dB Pad.[3] This will provide more usable range with the Gain control." I absolutely understand I need to learn the new product. That's fine and what I'm trying to do. Thanks all.
  20. Thanks. It seems contrary to the text of the manual where they say use the Master for volume attenuation but I do see the suggesting settings - I see the same on TaslkBass. There I also see that it's possible it might need rebiasing (I bought used) although the unit is only 3 years old. Setting the Bass/Mid/Trebble to 12 noon and the Valve drive fully clockwise has had some effect but I'm still surprised at the lack of volume at 'normal' gain/master levels. Where the Trace has loads of headroom, it seems the Ampeg does not. Acknowledging BassmanPaul's comment - yes I guess so, I'm used to Trace type gain staging, optimising the preamp before adjusting power section. Reading online it seems this is not the case with Ampeg. But nowhere in Ampeg's doucmentaiton does it really say that - would have been kinda useful (to me). Thanks for the guidance.
  21. Thanks. It seems contrary to the text of the manual where they say use the Master for volume attenuation but I see the suggesting settings, so thanks for the guidance - I see the same on TaslkBass. There I also see that it's possible it might need rebiasing (I bought used) although the unit is only 3 years old. Setting the Bass/Mid/Trebble to 12 noon and the Valve drive fully clockwise has had some effect but I'm still surprised at the lack of volume at 'normal' gain/master levels. Where the Trace has loads of headroom, it seems the Ampeg does not.
  22. Hmmm. Also interesting (esp Cu heat capacity). My heat sink version does feel noticeably heavier than normal though I have to say.
  23. Where did you hear Ampeg advises the Master to be on full please? I don't see it in the manual. Thanks again
  24. Didn't know about the Master - thanks. Will try all the above first. Should have read the manual...
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