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Si600

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Posts posted by Si600

  1. 2 hours ago, Reggaebass said:

    I picked up this beast a while back, I don’t do metalwork but I’m sure I’ll use it for something 😁

    604ADFBC-C40F-440E-A66C-E00EA810524F.jpeg

    I clamp my backsaws in mine for sharpening. How much do you use your block plane? I've got one but prefer a bench plane.

  2. Oh lackaday! Woe! Lamentations!

    This has just happened. 

    20210408_125658.jpg

    It's the insert which I had to fit after knocking the wrong corner of the chop off. Unsurprisingly I suppose, it's the top edge of long grain and taking all the force of clamping boards on the edges.

    However, what to do about it. I've got some oak, mahogany or ash to go in there, but it will be long grain again but bigger, or I can go pine again. Or... say nuts to it and fit a whole new face to the vice with the grain running vertically. Then I lose the massive flat clamping surface.

    Or a short length of vertical grain inset into the chop.

  3. 3 hours ago, Hellzero said:

    Just to put some oil on the fire...

    A bolt-on neck only needs two fixture points (in fact one would be enough, but the neck would be able to move on it's own axis). The fixture points towards the bridge are useless as they are in compression mode. All the tension is on the fixture points towards the headstock. It's a reverse Archimedes lever principle.

    You can see the action of this principle on old Fender's 4 points fixture where the heel very end of the fretboard (all the neck in fact) has been uprising (and the shim doesn't help in this case).

    Now I'll throw some water on the oil, just for fun.

    So..... providing you never needed the bit between 17th snd 18th fret, and it didn't protrude above the top of the fret to either side, you could hold the neck on with a jubilee clip... :ph34r:

    I may try that one day, but it would need to be a proper rat bass style over the rest of it.

    • Haha 2
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