Torben Hedstrøm

still haven't found out what makes a comfortable neck for me... I would love if some day I could buy a bass purely based on it's data (nut width, shallow or not so much etc.) but that day will probably never come. One thing I have learned is, that a proper setup and good strings can really work wonders, and sometimes turn an unplayable bass/neck completely around. The other thing I've learned is that string spacing is extremely important for me... 19 mm. is juuuuust right. Best/fastest necks I've encountered so far: Elrick Gold NJS 5 String Tune 5 string (don't recall the model... It's almost 20 years ago) Warwick Dolphin NT 5 Still long for an Elrick, and if I see one on the market sometime, at a reasonable price I will fight you for it . Had a few 4/6 stringers with good necks, but comparing them to the 5's would be unreasonable... 5 Strings is definately my main instrument, although I would like a 4 string 'slapper' at some point

Well, the wood had apparently 'settled' a bit causing an uneven fretboard. Simple as that... Maybe the new feeling is just due to not having to play around any particular places on the board

Thanks... Seemed to do the trick . It's like playing a whole new instrument now

Bought Warwick Thmup Fretless... No problems at all !.

Update... So... Finally got around to getting the Thumb to the shop for a checkup. Hope the results will be satidfactory, and the guy knows what he is doing (he did come highly recommended...). Wish me luck

Thanks guys, I'll try it out ASAP . Something to play with in the weekend, I think .

Gave up on this some 3 months ago or so, and my recording gear has been an axcellent dust collectyor ever since... -To put it simple... I bought a 16 pad MIDI-device for recording drums. With a bit of effort I succeeded in getting the thing mapped to Reaper's midi configuration. All is well, but what I would really like is to map each 'pad' to a single track in Reaper, so that I can record a drumtrack straight off tha pads, and do some mixing/levelling on it. Anyone tried this before ?... Is it possible ?.

Hmmm... Let's see... Out: Peavey Cirrus 6 (US), Stambaugh Fretless 6. In then out: Fender US Deluxe Precision, Peavey Cirrus 5 (US), Elrick Gold NJS, Celinder J-type In: Warwick Dolphin Pro 1 '91 Broadneck, Warwick Thumb BO fretless Broadneck

Hehe, acually none. Picture is from an offroad trip to the Sahara in February

Hi... Thanks for the concern... Still stalling on the luthoier thing, I'm afraid. Not because I won't pay up, but I feel REALLY reluctant handing over a precious instrument for sanding to just anyone. And case is, I have no references on any Danish luthiers yet. The buzzing is not bad enough to make the bass unplayable, so for now I just avoid that particular part of the neck Torben

Hm, structural resonance... Don't like the thought of that at all. I will experiment a bit, and contact a luthier for a quote on scraping the fingerboard . Thanks for all your comments & ideas guys, much appreciated !.

Thanks for replies... Already played around with the truss rod, but that particular dead spot stays in the exact same position. Otherwise I would agree, that yes... You can 'move' fret/neckbuzz by adjusting truss rod.

Hi... I own a fretless Warwick Thumb BO, and I am completely in liove with everything about it... Except... After adjusting relief & string height I found that I have a 'dead spot' juuuuust above what would have been the 6'th fret. I could probably just raise the action and get rid of it, but I really like my action nice and low. Guess I need a luthier to have a looke at it ?!.