Kiwi

I was just wondering whether it might be an interesting way into creating some fills or passing phrases that lead into chord changes.

[quote name='teen t-shirt' post='460092' date='Apr 11 2009, 08:17 PM']of one of my dads mates he told me when we went to pick it up that the stain down the front was from Jimi Hendrix pissing on it[/quote] if the rumours are true, you should have been looking for a fire hose blast not a trickle.

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='460095' date='Apr 11 2009, 08:22 PM']Seriously, an improvement over the TF would be separate vols (or vol and pan) rather than the selector switch.[/quote] Aw yeah. Tell it like it is Sister.

In my experience at least, older valve amps tend to get grindier with active basses. I've certainly found that with my Burman heads. That can be a good thing if you have an active bass with a gain trim pot on the preamp. Or better yet, just boost the bass or treble to grit up whatever you need. If you want clean tone then passive bass -> amp. There's no substitute.

Make a wedge monitor Alex EDIT: BTW, looking at the size of this thread, it seems to me that you might benefit from an affliates forum.

[quote name='51m0n' post='397890' date='Feb 2 2009, 03:26 PM']and as of Saturday's visit to BassDirect the Roscoe Century Standard....[/quote] I made enquiries about that bass as well a while back. I hope you got a decent discount

I wouldn't judge every valve amp on your initial experiences, if I was you. If the Ampeg hasn't been looked after, there could be all sorts of reasons why it didn't sound good. Also, there might be ways in which you could set the amp up to give you a sound closer to what you were looking for. The Shuttle is quite an aggressive and modern sounding amp too, not better or worse, just different. I have one at home in addition to about 3 valve heads, a stereo valve power amp and a valve guitar combo and the two types of technology are very much horses for courses.

a Roadie 1 looks like this: [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/reds42/3132621012/"]http://www.flickr.com/photos/reds42/3132621012/[/url]

Dunno really, depends on the market. Traditionally Roadies aren't as popular as the Mark King series but if someone wants to offer you the same, then why not? I was offered £1300 for my 1985 Jaydee Mark King Series 2 and I would have been an idiot to turn it down as they're not far off that cost brand new! A Roadie 1 might sell for £450-600, couldn't say about yours though.

[quote name='dr1' post='459350' date='Apr 10 2009, 02:55 PM']and now you're smart??? hahaha! joke! OK,my mistake, I thought it was Supernaturals, Roadie and Mking series with that similar shape.... thanx![/quote] Check out a few other Jaydees some time, you'll see they all have Supernatural on the back of the headstock (although I think the Calibas might not).

I've already noticed standards of service slipping with my credit card company, British Gas, couriers and other service suppliers. Seems like they've all taken their eye off the ball.

The TF seems to have more sustain and I was picking up a dead spot on the 71 too. How about stringing the TF with rounds? That would allow you to exploit that j pickup a little better and you'd have both bright and thumpy sounding fretlesses.

[quote name='dr1' post='459325' date='Apr 10 2009, 02:26 PM']it's supernatural,not roadie ll active[/quote] The Roadie was a type of Supernatural.

KT77s are considered the best upgrade for EL34's. Cleaner sound and better balanced tonally but EL34's are quite warm sounding nonetheless.

[quote name='Simon' post='458876' date='Apr 9 2009, 10:12 PM']I find my Sadowsky Metro J5 incredibly bright, so I wonder what the Celinder is like in comparison![/quote] Well personally, I've found the Celinder to be somewhat sweeter than the Sadowsky's I've tried but I'm reliably informed that the difference isn't that significant on stage.

Just discovered this fascinating set of documentaries about Ned Steinberger expanding Steinberger Sound while I was doing some research for an article on composite necks in the wiki Part 5 is particularly interesting for how Ned reacts to japanese rip offs of his designs.

I wouldn't pick holes in that assessment myself. I find my red Celinder is quite bright as well and it probably needs to be a bit warmer. I've found dead spots on the Update J5's as well. But bung Sads, Ateliers and Celinders all through a compressor and then what?

sweet bass and highly under rated.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='458756' date='Apr 9 2009, 07:43 PM']Almost every bass I've ever seen for sale here has been described as "the bess bass I've ever played" by the seller. I think people are just generous and they don't want to keep all the best basses for themselves.[/quote] Must see you coming then? But seriously, probably because they know how desirable they are, and can sell 'em on if they have too many. There are different flavours but all taste good and one is never enough.

The necks are very good. The one on my red Update J is half way between a p and a j neck in nut width (I've measured it!). The black update J I sold was a little bit narrower but still wider than a jazz. I think the strongest thing about Celinders is that Chris has genuinely cracked the secret of what makes a good jazz and precision bass and manages to deliver instruments that are [i]consistently[/i] good. You wouldn't think it would be so difficult but for the fact that there are so many others out there who have managed to nail it sometimes and missed the boat completely at other times suggesting that they haven't quite understood what they need to specify in the wood. Some manufacturers like Ernie Ball are extremely specific about the growth rings per inch, moisture content etc. in their maple and ash (and so they should be). They can probably afford to be that specific if they're buying massive bulk orders too. For the smaller buyers, its more a case of taking what is offered from their local timber merchant as its not in the merchants interests to spend much time going through a load of sawn logs and picking off the stuff that meets the standard. Thats often left to the luthier to do anyway. I did talk to Chris about doing an MM/J type bass at one point but he thought there wasn't an awful lot that he could do as a luthier to improve on the original stingray design (which is paying a massive compliment to EB stingrays). Whether the neck is lacquered or not is a matter of personal taste, Chris's operation is sufficiently small that I'm sure he could accommodate some minor tweaks in finish. In fact it might even be easier for him to do a satin finished neck because it requires less sanding and polishing.

I'm curious about it, has anyone here had any experience of applying it to bass?

[quote name='bootleg' post='457553' date='Apr 8 2009, 04:18 PM']I'm interested in that option. Any wiring instructions for that mod? Mine works in both active and passive. Though, to be honest, I doesn't work too good in either in that it effects the tone immediately and then further adjustments have no effect. is it broke? or a function?[/quote] Sounds like the capacitor might be bypassed in some manner (I'm no electronics expert) probably a good idea to check all the soldering joints and to make sure there are no shorts caused by fraying wires. As far as the passive tone wiring mod goes, I can't remember specifically off the top of my head what I did and I don't have my Jaydee any more as a reference. However the gist of what I did was to re-route the passive eq through the passive side of the active/passive switch...or something like that... I couldn't understand why it wasn't wired like that as standard to be honest.

If I'm not mistaken, that bass is a Roadie II Active - pretty much identical to a Mark King model but with a black headstock facing and no DI or body laminates. Nothing that makes a jot of difference to the sound really. The pickup selector switch has 4 positions so from back most position to front, the options should be 1) Off (no LED) 2) On - back pickup only 3) On - both pickups 4) On - neck pickup only The top chrome control knob is volume (self explanatory really, if you give it a tweak) and the bottom is passive tone which was originally wired to be in parallel with the active eq. However a simple mod can let it run alternatively to the active eq when the active eq switch is used. The five digit serial number was introduced some time around the late 80's I believe. I went to check the Jaydee serial number database but its no longer on the Jaydee website

Blimey, Mr Mann is back too!