Linus27

I have a similar experience with Ampeg. I did a gig supporting Carrie which was the band the late bass player from EMF was in. He had a big Ampeg rig which I was able to use. I was so excited but it sounded pants with my bass. Really dissapointed.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='477103' date='May 1 2009, 03:27 PM']I'm far too stingy for that - I like my brakes and tyres to last and I begrudge paying for petrol! After the fuel prices shot up I tried to get in the habit of sticking between 70-75 on the motorway instead of 75-80 and I got another 4 mpg or so, so I now have an overspeed alert on the satnav set at 75mph to slow me down. The car's a lot quieter at 70 than 80 too, a lot of airflow must shift from laminar to turbulent at that speed hence the big leap in fuel consumption. Alex[/quote] Alex, thats far to sensible. Drive it like you stole it ok. :):)

[quote name='Lifer' post='476907' date='May 1 2009, 12:19 PM']If you're on a public road then you can't be sure there's no-one around. You could be the drifting champion of the world but if someone less 'skilled' than you pulls out (maybe because they can't judge speed) in front while you're 'learning your limits' you're gonna be in trouble. Similarly you could meet someone learning their limits coming the other way. I love driving, I love speed, and there are plenty of places where you can find your limits in a controlled environment (run what you brung) or have a blast in something you'll never be able to drive normally (track days). Anything else is just stupid in my opinion.[/quote] I can see the point your making and understand what your saying, but I think we have gone way to far to the extreme these days. Driving standards at the moment have dropped so much that some people are more of a danger to themselves and others simply for fear or prosecution by the nanny state and money grabbing goverment. How many times have you come up behind people in the middle lane on the motorway with the inside lane empty because they think they are safe because they are doing 60mph and don't need to overtake. How many times have you followed a car through a country lane doing 40mph but they remain doing 40mph in the 50mph zones, 30mph zone and national speed limit zone because they have been told 40mph is the safe speed. I do track days in my Lotus Elise and yet drive responisbily on the road but I rarely stick to the speed limits. I do however, drive within my limits, the cars limits and the road conditions. I'll get the rear to step out a little on the road, where I feel it is no danger yet I have a clean licence and have since 1988. I very much doubt Alexclaber is sliding and throwing his car into every corner and speeding everywhere. He's just enjoying his driving within the limits of the road and his abilities. I very much doubt he is anywhere near dangerous, over the limit or out of control. Driving is all about risk assesment, not about doing the speed that it says on the road sign.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='475034' date='Apr 29 2009, 01:17 PM']There was a time when one could enjoy driving on the road without being told that the only place for such driving in on a race track. And on an empty road with good visibility the risk is only one's own, not anyone else's. I'd agree that driving anywhere near the limits on an unfamiliar road is very risky, where there may be hidden entrances, strange camber changes etc. But on a road you know intimately it's a different matter altogether. And the patch of oil argument is very weak when you're in a vehicle with four contact patches many feet apart. The styling driven penchant for ultra-low profile tyres on extra large wheels may be what's leading you to think any degree of sliding is dangerous and out of control - the wider and lower profile the tyre the less progressively the tyre lets go, and the faster the car will be going when it does. On a car with more sensibly sized tyres you have a much more progressive and controllable transition from grip to slip - I don't think I'd ever dare trying to slide a monster tyred X5 or suchlike, one moment you're going quickly round a bend, the next moment you're going quickly through a hedge. Very different on 195/65s. I'd be far happier if the world was full of drivers that actively enjoyed driving and thus gave it their full attention - better car control in the event of an accident but more importantly a much reduced risk of accident due to better observation, forward planning and driving correctly for the conditions. I'm sure RoSPA would agree. An engaged driver is a safer driver. Alex[/quote] + 10000 to this. Plus, I very much doubt you are driving anywhere near the limit of your car or your ability. It's very easy to get a front wheel drive car to understeer at low speed. In fact, all you have to do is to steer hard and lift off the throttle at the correct time to induce understeer at very low speed. Speed does not kill, its inapproprite (sp?) speed for the road conditions thats the problem and this is where people fail to understand or get right. Just because the road has a 40mph speed limit does not mean its safe to do 40mph on it. You should be looking at the road conditions and adjusting accordingly, not speedo watching. Likewise, if a road has a 50mph speed limit on it, does not mean its not safe to do 60mph.

U2 were first called Feedback when they formed in 1976. They then renamed themselves to The Hype in 1977 when Dik Evans (The Edge's brother left) and then later in 1977 renamed themselves U2 which was one of the six named suggested to them that they disliked the least. Simple Minds were originally called Johnny and the Self Abusers.

Just interested in what you all drive to lug your bass gear around to and from gigs or practises etc. I drive a 2000 Scooby Impreza Sportwagon. Pretty good really although the boot is fairly small. With the back seats up, I can get the two Ashdown cabs in the back (2 x 10 and 1 x 15) plus the Ashdown head, flight case and stand. Have to then put the bass on the back seat. With the back seats down then everything can go in the back with no problem.

Well, I tried the Little Giant 1000 and I have decided against it. A lovely peice of kit, and sounds very good but not a patch on my MAG300H head. The MAG just sounded so much more alive, punchier with a much better scope of sound. The Little Giant was too limited. Both heads were tested back to back through my MAG 1 x 15 cab. So this has left me back at square one. I am half tempted to just go for the MAG 600H EVO II Head and the MAG 410T. Maybe even go for the ABM range but I understand that has a different sound to the MAG range which may be a bad move if I like the MAG sound. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

[quote name='bassbloke' post='473469' date='Apr 27 2009, 04:30 PM']I may be to help. I selling a Tech ND212s. 4 Ohms. 600 Watts. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=47028"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=47028[/url] Let me know if you're interested.[/quote] Yes I might well be. I am testing the Little Giant tonight to see if its a goer or not. I have never heard of Techamp before. Saying that, half of the bass cab manufacturers I have never heard off either What sort of sound do they give?

I might need to get a 4 ohms cab to run with a Little Giant 1000. Only going to be using one of the two 500 watts so I need a 4 ohms cab that can cope with this. Idealy I would like a 2 x 12 to keep things small and simple but open to other options like a 3 x 10 or a 4 x 10. So far, this is all I have come up with. Epifani UL 212 EBS Neo 212 Peavy 412 TVX Any other 4 ohms cabs I can add to my list? They also all seem to be rather expensive.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='472349' date='Apr 25 2009, 07:42 PM']I was impressed by how clear everything was. The size has always amazed me. My girlf picked up a 2x10 MB cab and couldnt believe how light it was....and the LMII head...less than a laptop! Its definitely a contender for my new lightweight touring head...an LM 3, an LMTube or genz Shuttlemax. I was thinking Gallien 1001RB II, but I really need to keep the head as small as possible! It was with a standard mex Jazz from the shopfloor as well. Soooo loud! And that was with 1 8Ohm 4x10 cab![/quote] Was this a Markbass 4 x 10? If so, how did you find the sound it produced? Bassy, thin, twangy, fat, clean, balanced??? Suitable for rock??

Still looking at ideas for a new rig. Looking at getting the Hartke LH500 and saw you can get a Hartke VX215 which is 2 x 15 paper coned speakers running at 4 ohms. This would allow me to get the most out of the LH500. However, not really seen much about the Hartke VX215 on here. Has anyone tried one? Is 2 x 15 speakers a good idea or would an 8 ohms 4 x 10 be a wiser buy?

[quote name='Linus27' post='471354' date='Apr 24 2009, 11:11 AM']The Hartke website says the following regarding the LH1000, Dual Parallel Mode: 2 x 225 watts @ 8 ohms, 2 x 320 watts @ 4 ohms, 2 x 545 watts @ 2 ohms Bridge Mode: 1 x 750 watts @ 8 ohms, 1 x 1100 watts @ 4 ohms I am a bit confused what the difference is between dual parallel mode is and bridge mode. Could someone explain what it means in relation to if I ran an LH1000 with 1 x 8 ohms speaker or an LH1000 with 1 x 4 ohms speaker?[/quote] Ok, sussed it. In bridge mode, the two 500 watts are running together. So if running 1 x 8 ohms speaker, the output is 1 x 750 watts. If running 1 x 4 ohms speaker the output is 1100 watts. In dual parallel mode, the two 500 watts are running seperate. So if running two 8 ohms speakers then you get 2 x 225 watts (450 watts). It gets a bit more complicated after that if running 2 x 8 ohm speakers as a 4 ohm config or 2 x 4 ohms speakers. Now do I get the LH1000 with either 1 x 8 ohms speaker (750 watts) or 1 x 4 ohms speaker (1100 watts) or the £50 cheaper LH500 with 1 x 4 ohms speaker (500 watts). Not sure if running just 1 speaker with that much output is the right thing to do.

[quote name='Merton' post='471721' date='Apr 24 2009, 05:09 PM']Cheers Colin! Yes, I have an LH500 you're welcome to have a play about, but I'm not really very mobile at the mo (at home bonding with MiniMert, 4 days old now) and I need it a lot over the next few weeks. PM me and we can prob sort something tho Mert[/quote] Thanks for the replies guys. Mert, don't worry for now, Stylon has offered for me to try his and he lives close to me. Plus, things must be a bit hectic with a four day old minimert. Thank you for the offer though.

Looking at getting a Hartke LH500/1000 but would really like to hear one before making the plunge. Anyone know of anywhere around the Surrey/Hampshire/Berkshire area that has them that I can go and hear? Also, not sure to go for one of the new Hydrive speakers or one of the paper coned VX speakers with it.

The Hartke website says the following regarding the LH1000, Dual Parallel Mode: 2 x 225 watts @ 8 ohms, 2 x 320 watts @ 4 ohms, 2 x 545 watts @ 2 ohms Bridge Mode: 1 x 750 watts @ 8 ohms, 1 x 1100 watts @ 4 ohms I am a bit confused what the difference is between dual parallel mode is and bridge mode. Could someone explain what it means in relation to if I ran an LH1000 with 1 x 8 ohms speaker or an LH1000 with 1 x 4 ohms speaker?

I really want to get one of these LH500 amp heads but its not fair. You guys all paid around £200 and now they are selling at around £300. Not fair, I want one :)

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='465185' date='Apr 17 2009, 04:10 PM']I have a suspicion, but firstly answer me this: do you have the same problem when you play sitting down? My theory: you're wearing your bass very low (from your avatar). Your right wrist is resting on the bass body. Your fingers, when at rest, are parallel to the plane of the body of the bass. So when you pluck the E string, instead of stroking parallel to the PotBotB, you're stroking towards it (as you have observed already). Solution is to keep your right hand away from the body, which you won't be able to do unless you wear the bass a bit higher. S.P.[/quote] I think your right on this. I have raised the bass up a little and it has helped but I think I need to be aware of my technique and get used to plucking up and playing softer.

[quote name='Stu-khag' post='464017' date='Apr 16 2009, 03:29 PM']Its got to be worth more than £350! Ive seen them online from around £520 upwards. Ive seen one in a local shop a few pounds shy of 600 quid. if its mint and you have an invoice with the setup work thats been done , surely its worth a punt offering it for near that price and see what happens. People can only haggle it down then.[/quote] Yeah, this is kind of how I feel about it. It also comes with a Fender gigbag. £350 seems too low for a bass thats mint condition, only played at home complete with a full setup. Might as well keep it for that price.

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='463643' date='Apr 16 2009, 08:42 AM']If your MIM classic 70's jazz is mint, I'd start around 350. Sounds reasonable to me Someone's sure to snare it at that.[/quote] Not sure its worth me selling it if £350 is the best I can get. Thats losing quite a bit on a bass thats a few months old. Probably worth keeping for that price.

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='463675' date='Apr 16 2009, 09:42 AM']£80 for a setup? Jeez, what does he do for that?[/quote] Strips the whole bass, treats the wood, checks all the electrics/wiring and replaces or re-wires if needed, greases tuners, saddles etc, adjusts the neck relief, sorts the frets out, pickups height, string height, and setups the bass to suit your playing. I think there is more but can't remember. Every single part of the bass is treated. The bass then plays like creamy butter afterwards :)

[quote name='jim_bass' post='463535' date='Apr 15 2009, 11:42 PM']£20 to me she's lovely[/quote] HAHA does that include postage?

I have major gas for a Lakland Darryl Jones Skyline. However, the only way I am going to get one is if I sell my Fender Jazz Classic 1970 Re-issue. I bought it brand new a couple of months ago and only used it at home so it in in total mint condition. It has also been set up by Jo White, a professional luthier which cost £80. New they seem to be around £540 - £580 but seem to be out of stock for some reason. Any ideas what I should sell her for if I decide to? Here is a picture of her on the right.

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='463028' date='Apr 15 2009, 02:38 PM']Agreed - but when you have a US in your hands, you can tell the difference in the woods big time. US uses choice pieces of wood. The Skylines are great, but you do notice that the wood is somewhat "plain" in comparison. Are the US nicer than the Skylines? Absolutely. Every time. Are they worth the extra money....? Not convinced.[/quote] I guess thats the difference then and I guess depending on budget and personel taste, only oneself can justify if the extra price is worth paying. Is there anywhere in the UK that sell the US models? I had a look and could not really find anywhere advertising them. Wanted to try and find a price of a US Darryl Jones 4 String.