tauzero

Better looking than those ones with headstocks, and better balanced.

It's about as common as "Squire".

That's all very well, but I think I might be arrested if I turned up for a gig with a headless baby boy.

He should show A Little Respect.

It looks better as a doublecut. That bottom horn does need something doing, at the moment it looks rather as if someone has cut the end off it.

Just make it headless and access the trussrod at the nut end. Some day all basses will be like this.

The horror of the body distracted me from the neck, so I hadn't noticed that it's also a defret of sorts.

https://www.allparts.uk.com/products/concentric-stacked-knob-set Or

Unless the bass actually sounds like that. In which case, the bass is one to avoid.

Was the Axstar better than the EHB range? And why am I replying to a Nilo topic?

5.1kg according to the kitchen scales.

Bolt-on as well - aren't the Buzz line all neck-through?

"Its the most transparent and exciting sounding hybrid amplifier on the market." Even if one is to forgive the missing apostrophe, surely this is self-contradictory. If it's transparent, then it can't be colouring the sound, so it can't be exciting sounding as that implies it's doing something to the sound.

Truss rod slackened, relief now set. Fret ends are well finished, nothing sharp there. Bridge saddles reduced to minimum but action still a bit high. Two options - shim the neck or grind the underside of the bridge saddles down a bit. I shall give this some thought.

Line 6 website https://line6.com - support - manuals

That will do it. It would need something a bit different to have the active and passive tone separate.

Stage 1 - take bass outside and open box Stage 2 - remove bass from box and take bass inside Stage 3 - put polystyrene box in bin Stage 4 - allow cat near bass

Like I said, the sound is pretty good, the neck pickup especially is very full and mellow. The neck is wood with an acrylic headstock grafted on to it. Truss rod access is conventional at the headstock, with a 3-screw cover. I'll be changing the strings for my normal Elites 40-125 stainless sometime soon. Fretwork seems OK, I'll have a better idea when I've got the truss rod and action set up.

Did your bass not also suffer? And if not, is it an active or a passive bass?

Shouldn't it be in Gear > Basses?

Can't find it on Ebay.

One of our guitarists has two, an SG and a Les Paul. He won the Les Paul in a Guitar Marketplace draw so at least he paid a fair price for it.

This is a failure in functionality, not just failing to move with the times. Still, it'll stop working once all browsers insist on HTML5 compliance.

About three weeks after I ordered it, the acrylic light-up 5-string bass is here. Unusually (IME), it came in a foamy bag in a polystyrene box and nowt else - no cardboard box. So, to avoid polystyrene particles everywhere, the box got opened outside. It was almost in tune, so no need to send it back. I fine-tuned it and had a little plink. It needs setting up - the neck is slightly back-bowed and the action a little high but it's quite playable. Checked with a micrometer and the neck is about 22.5mm at the first fret, a bit thicker than I like - probably about 5-string Precision thickness, not a complete baseball bat. And now the bit you all are wondering about: It did interest Pixie the microcat. One of the LEDs at the 24th fret is out but I don't really want the stress of sending it back for that. There's a single PP3 battery to power the lights and the bass itself is passive, VVT (the T doesn't seem terribly effective). Sound is pretty good, the neck pickup has a nice mellow tone to it. I need to find out if I can get Schaller straplocks onto it. So that's another task. I suspect I'll need to use the original screw2s to maintain the thread in the acrylic but fortunately I do have a pair of mark 1 Schallers sitting on my desk. It's a bit on the heavy side but I generally play seated anyway so that's not a bother. Not something to play a whole set with but I fancy doing a few songs with it.