Grangur

FWIW my bro-in-law takes his cello on the plane as hand luggage, but he does pay for it. It cost the same as a 2nd passenger. So it's not a low-cost option.

Oh, btw the pups are standard WW MECs..

Hi All, This is, I'm sure a stoopid question that anyone on here, except me, can answer.... I've got a Warwick Streamer Stage 1 with a P-J config... see avatar. When I turn the blend to the front, "P" pickups the sound is strong and cool. When I turn the blend to the back, "J" pup the sound is definitely quieter. Is this normal? I can understand that the "P" pup has 2 parts and so there may be more sensitivity to it; and so louder, but I'd expect this to be sorted in the electronics. BTW I know the J pup is working, cos if I switch to it and touch a metal item to it, it does "pop" as I'd expect it to. Thanks in advance. Rich

If the other band's use of your image is damaging your career and earnings or earning pottential then you can sue for damages, but you need to be able to prove this using offers of work and letters of retraction etc. If there's no damage that you can prove, then you don't have a leg to stand on, cos if you've no damage then there's no value to the situation. Idea No.2 You could possibly try for a restraining order, but I would expect you'd need to go to court and demonstrate how seeing the promo images or hearing the audio recordings are turning you into a gibbering wreck... errhm no, I doubt that would come off either. OK, idea No.3: if the band is doing well on the use of your images and promos, then you can go after them for a share of the earnings that is as a result of you aiding to bring in the work and earnings. If you've a good cult following in the M1 J21 area then you could clean up. Otherwise... get a new band, nick all the good gigs and piss them off in the good old fashioned way.

I still recon anyone who's made a success of a career in rock DOES know a good bit about music theory. It's just not "Rock 'n' Roll" to admit to it. I can't believe many of the greats are, to quote Woody in Toy Story; "Falling with style"

What is it about the guitar and bass that folk want to "play by numbers". I've never yet seen a pianist number the keys 1-84 and write the key numbers down and call it music. ... or maybe I'm wrong?

Hi All, This book is new out I thought it could be useful for others to read a review. Ove the past 2 weeks I've been working my way through the first chapter of the first book; I've got the "Beginner Level" it's from a series of 3 by Stuart Clayton, who also wrote "Crash Course Bass". The other books are "Intermediate" and "Advanced". This series is published by Bassline Publishing; [url="http://www.basslinepublishing.com/"]http://www.basslinepublishing.com/[/url] and it's spiral bound, so you don't have to stamp all over the spine of the book to get it to stay open. Right from the start you learn all about the Reading basics from bars, staves, note types, time sigs and key sigs... blar, blar... right up to navigation using codas and repeats etc. In the past I've done some reading and played the note lengths going by my knowing what the tune should sound like. This last 2 weeks, however, I've been playing from the book with the metronome in my ears and trying to keep strictly to the right times for the note length. It makes a change from knowing the tune and timing the lengths. Wow, it's a new world and it really brings you back to reading at a new level and getting the timing right for once. Reading properly brings a new challenge to playing, but I'm sure that once I've got it covered I'll be able to really play from music scores in books without reverting to those notes that are the work of Satan himself.... TABS!! OK it's only my very humble opion, but surely if you play by tabs alone you're really only "playing by numbers". If you're going to play Tabs only why get to know the names of notes at all? Why would you ever need to know that "E3" is a G, or "A5" is a D? But, hey... back to the book. At the start of the book the examples are a bit lacking in "melodic" content, but in fairness to Stuart it's got to be hard to write lines when all you have to play with is crochets, but as you go through the book the lines get better and in the end you're playing some real-world lines. What I have found really useful, and worth the price alone is Stuart's really clear description about "Accidentals". I've been confused about those in the past, but his discription is totally clear. Would I buy it again? Well I'm looking forward to getting on to the "Intermediate" book, so I guess that means something. Yep, it's a cool book. I hope this ramble helps a few folk. Cheers Rich

The first step is to take your bass down to a good, local shop with a good range of amps and try some out. Don't forget though, if you don't buy an amp from there, do buy something, strings, books etc.,. otherwise they won't be there next time you need them.

Billy Sheehan, in one old vid I saw, talks about working on a new bass he got where he gouged a hole for his thumb to sit. So "mint" condition doesn't seem to matter to everyone.

[quote name='mentalextra' timestamp='1362512003' post='2000594'] Calm yourself down, I'm talking about his guitar not the man. Sensible people can have these discussion with the usual suspects and there football mentality [/quote] I'm calm. No offence ment, none taken either. I'm just intrigued how so many of us say we need 5/6 strings, then we see the real, widely respected greats with 4 strings on a bog-standard bass ok... correction... standard with his own changes, like taking the frets out.

If Jaco believed he'd found "his sound" with standard pups in his Fender, then anything he changed them to would no longer have been "his sound". If Jaco believed 4 strings and standard pups is all you need, then that's good enough for me

Hey! I've just found a learned bass player who can advise us: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h1jQC1Ab2c"]www.youtube....h?v=4h1jQC1Ab2c[/url] Listen and learn at 0.12... forget the rest after this See... it's THAT basic!

4's good for me. But I want a Warwick Just-a-nut to get the spacing right.

Envious and speachless... I'm sure you'll have a great time.

I've bought basses off ebay, done them up and sold them. Basses I've had: Stagg - ok for what it was. Westfield - when all set up, with a reasonble action there was a fret that still buzzed. Wesley - now a defunct company I believe, but they brought in Asian basses - it was ok. Played well, if it did feel cheap Ibanez EDB600 - loved it.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1361302082' post='1984252'] Funny! But I have never understood why pick players are not considered to be 'proper' bass players? [/quote] Too right, Chris Squire never could play.

P [quote name='tom1946' timestamp='1361281403' post='1983802'] It has slight sideways play due to the mighty mite not being the 2.5 inches advertised Not a lot but makes the neck really awkward to fit with it slopping about slightly. [/quote] Pack the sides with folded paper or card before drilling

If you're going to clamp the neck in place, don't clamp direct on the surface of the bass. If you can, put a piece of MDF/plywood under the clamp jaws to widen the area of pressure. This will reduce the chances of the foot of the clamp pressing into the fibres of the wood. Mind you, if you clamp it I don't recon you'll be able to see much of the bass to do the fixing. I recon the "wife or mate" idea is best. A "pilot hole" is a small hole you drill first to guide the way for the main drill. My concern here is if you drill through the body into the neck with and undersized drill it may not be in the centre of the hole and will be in the wrong place when you come to screw. How I would do it, would be hold the neck in place, or lay the bass down on clean, soft blankets or dust cloths supporting it in the right places. Then find a drill that's a neat fit in the body hole and drill through just to mark the hole position. Take body off and then see the 4 hole positions marked in the neck and drill into these positions using the right sized drill for the screws you're going to use. Be careful not to drill too deep. if it helps, measure the length of the screw against the drill and mark the depth you need to go on the drill-bit with tape. (Allowing also for the depth of the body etc.) Better too shallow and have to re-drill, than to go too deep.

I prefer this style of demo. There's a bit of silly jargon, but it's more useful IMHO [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOLxxevOCzU"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOLxxevOCzU[/url]

Mart, you're so right.... the money is on THAT side of the pond and Warwick, like many other companies just throw at us the same marketing cos we speak English. I've a Warwick, but puke at the sound of Irvine

[quote name='jackers' timestamp='1360966818' post='1979333'] I guess it depends what you mean by the word 'beginner'. Do you mean people who want to give the bass a go to see if it is for them, or do you mean someone who definitely wants to play the bass and needs a decent bass to keep learning on? If it is the former then they aren't necessarily going to want to spend 200 quid on a peavey/squier vm are they? [/quote] I agree to some degree, but it's possible that someome "giving it a go" will get turned off if the fretboard buzzes and the sound is wrong. If they aspire to a good sound, then the sound needs to be what they expect to hear. I'd advocate secondhand, but they need to try some basses out. Also, off subject maybe, but if you want to keep your local music store to still be there next year, then buy your gear from them. They won't survive if you only use them to try stuff.

[quote name='leftyhook' timestamp='1360980158' post='1979499'] will the seller do one in left handed? :OD you lucky, lucky right-handed bas**rds !!!! [/quote] Ahhh... I feel for you. You need to get lucky like Jimi Hendrix. [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYduoMdMS84"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYduoMdMS84[/url]