timmyo

[quote name='TheRev' timestamp='1458061745' post='3004321'] Mine has the same width as a typical Jazz, but is fatter from front to back. [/quote] Cheers Rev (and others :-) ) - yes I have a CV Jazz and they *feel* very different - the depth on the Sterling seems to make the whole thing just sit nicer in the hand. Are there Jazzes out there that would be close/similar - particular eras/styles or brands? Thanks all for the replies - I know very little about these things! ta Tim

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1457980921' post='3003648'] You missed it. Mono were part of a distributors stand, I think they may have been with MXR and someone else? [/quote] Yes - distribution of Mono has shifted to Westside Distribution so was part of their MXR/Dunlop/Etc stand.

Hi folks, How would you characterise the neck profile on a Sterling? What other types or brands of bass are likely to have something similar (which to my ill-informed hands seems to be narrow compared to a P, but deeper compared to the slim neck on my Squire CV Jazz) Suggestions? :-) Thanks T

I have the Players School combo - I don't have much to compare it with hands on but with my USA SUB it still sounds proper slap-py, but you can also dial it down to be a really versatile sound (none of that impossible to lose top end sizzle that personally I hate) - then with a P with flats - oh my my - just proper. This video helped me take the plunge but even this doesn't really do it justice http://www.iguitarmag.com/magazine-editions/guitar-interactive-issue-19/reviews/markbass-cmd-151-jeff-berlin-players-combo/

It seems to be the passive that that's not shining through the MB - active MM is great, ditto passive P. Maybe it's just a level thing - the J singles being lower?

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1421521546' post='2662277'] For £175 this is a steal, GK Neo 212: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/252575-fs-gallien-krueger-neo-212-cab-reduced-to-l175/"]http://basschat.co.u...educed-to-l175/[/url] [/quote] thanks - and for comments above - shall nose about

[quote name='M@23' timestamp='1421520471' post='2662265'] I don't know if this is possible, but aren't the MB combos usally just the amp stuck to a standard cab? Is this a LM250 mounted to a Balckline 1x15? If so, can you just disconnect the head and plug the Tone Hammer in? [/quote] Actually I think that's spot on - good option :-)

I really like my Markbass Jeff Berlin Player School Combo - I cannot fault it. I really like the sounds I can get either as it is or sticking Jamup out of iPad in to the returns. But we are not rational creatures. I have a hankering for a Tonehammer But I won't be able to afford a sexy lightweight cab to go with it, and don't have a cab. 2 questions: 1. What is a decent inexpensive cab (used is fine - indeed encouraged) to use initially 2. What is a good easy-to-handle cab to pair with the TH eventually? I like groove - not in to pyrotechnical playing (either to play or to listen to) I have a passive P and J type, but also a USA SUB Sterling and to like its punchiness on occasion. All input, ideas, experiences and general rambling appreciated Tim

The wider Nano (Nano+) is cool - I'm done with stepping over things to other things - one nice handy row please, ta :-)

Ah - who is this [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]OBBM of whom we speak ? Sounds worth knowing! [/font][/color]

Over the years on my guitar boards I tried a few things. George L's : Really easy to make - they always worked first time for me - but then I'd go 6 or more months of happy camping and then one day ... silence .... and at rehearsal or soundcheck you are unscrewing and re-screwing them all to find the one that is playing up. It doesn't matter if this only happens once in 5 years - in that moment it's a nightmare! Lava : good grief what a faff. I made up 6 or 7 from my kit. One of them worked first time. Felt like I needed bionic fingers to do them up at all. They seem to work perfectly well now but I'm not in a hurry to buy more, put it that way :-) Lava is a company with hyperbole marketing and a fanboy fan base so I'll probably get stalked or a fatwa now... :-) The best solution : I'm completely sold on having cable of the right length rather than compromise layout - and the absolute best of both worlds is to make some or get someone to make you some - and yes there are low profile plugs that can be solderd - eg Hicon . If you can't make your own then somewhere like Kabl will do it pretty reasonably : http://www.kablonline.com/instrument.html

I bought a pedal from Ed [url="http://basschat.co.uk/user/35094-edpirie/"]http://basschat.co.u.../35094-edpirie/[/url] - not only was it a smooth transaction, when we realised we worked in the same part of London he dropped it off for me and refunded my postage costs :-) An absolute gent - cheers Ed Tim

What about Aguilar Tonehammer ? Do they have any compatability peculiarities?

MM Sub Sterling - blue-ish

Ah maybe I'm not imagining it then :-) An excuse for a 2nd amp? lol

I've found that my amp (Markbass Player School Jeff Berlin 1x15 combo) seems to not flatter my Squier CV Jazz. It never sounds nice and burbly like all the Jazz demos I hear online, but it doesn't seem to be any inherrent lack of brightness (my SUB Sterling sounds plenty articulate - I can't play slap but when I hamfistedly give it a go sounds jump out of the amp and sound great). Similarly my P with flats sounds immense. But the Jazz .... it's as though the tone knob is always down a bit - googling seems to suggest that the electrics in a CV Jazz are decent - so I'm wondering if this is a thing - some amps r preamp sections lend themselves to certain types of instruments. Or... not... ? ta for any thoughts Tim

[quote name='scoobystig' timestamp='1419696820' post='2641983'] First outing in anger tonight !!!!!!! Let's see how well it rocks the pub [/quote] How did the gig go? What band are you with (I'm a fellow Swindon dweller)

I've got a CV P with TI flats - sounds and feels amazing

Some very interesting stuff in here - thanks :-) My current obsession is very much for something that sounds very MM, so probably with a pickup very much like that or in that spot. I've been trying to work out how I'd add in a P pickup to my Sterling SUB but don't have the eletricamagical knowhow I'd be interested to try a Sandberg to see how close they get to the sounds in my head, will have to track some down

If I add a P pickup to my SUB Sterling (profile pic) how could I incorporate it in the electrics?

School me please: looking for tips for basses to look at which come with both M-type and P-type pickups as standard Cheers!

Thanks again. I've found someone who will do the plate for me so that's good. Now I need to think about the whole electrics side of it - how to wire in a P pickup to the (active) Sterling electrics... :-/ ..... ?

Thanks guys. Does the rout need to be wider than the pickguard hole? (ie is the baseplate larger than the hole the pup pokes through?)

Thanks folks As the pickguard will be on show I'm wary of doing that myself - I'd prefer to trust that bit to someone experienced. I don't mind buying a chisel - would that be simpler than Dremeling do you think?