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Hi mumra, What Ampeg are saying is that the transformer has two pairs of connections. One pair works for 110V, the other pair for 220V. You just need to change a couple of wires round in the amp and fit a different fuse.

[quote name='skankdelvar' post='1163957' date='Mar 16 2011, 01:52 AM'][/thread] Frankly, one can learn the notes or not. If one does, then one is a probably better player for the effort. If one doesn't, one [i]still [/i]might get a tongue in the ear from the plumpie that keeps staring at you during the 'Alright Now' bass solo. So it's all good.[/quote]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1163915' date='Mar 16 2011, 12:24 AM']Specific frequencies cause specific threaded components to "spontaneously unscrew".[/quote] That'd explain my head then...

[quote name='Blademan_98' post='1163775' date='Mar 15 2011, 09:55 PM']Since I took up bass last year (aged 45) I've put on 3 stone and got 4 tattoo's [/quote] Damn that heavy ink...

[quote name='Jakester' post='1163606' date='Mar 15 2011, 08:11 PM']Hmm, I think it's unlikely to be that worn, as the bridge is reasonably new. Could it be as a result of bad technique? As I say, I'm newish to this, and I do have a tendency to dig in quite a lot - could this be pulling the string and causing the saddle to move?[/quote] I doubt it's a technique issue. Digging in just pushes the saddle screws down harder against the bridge, I don't see how that makes them rotate.

[quote name='Nostromo' post='1163601' date='Mar 15 2011, 08:10 PM']I dont know what the normal service life of a 12AX7 pre amp valve ought to be ? Maybe the valve is wore out ?[/quote] There are too many variables to put an 'expected life' figure on it unfortunately. As Big J has also pointed out, it might be that the valve isn't firmly seated in the socket. From what you've described I'd certainly be looking somewhere around the valve area.

It's not normal. IIRC this amp has a single valve pre-amp, it could be that the valve is faulty and crawls back to life once it's heated up sufficiently.

No reason not to use threadlock, but I suspect that if the saddle is dropping then the thread is so badly worn that threadlock isn't going to help you. I'd be more inclined to work out whats happening and fix it rather than use workarounds.

[quote name='dood' post='1163212' date='Mar 15 2011, 03:28 PM']da-dummm.. tishhhhhhhh!!!!!! ahhhhh very good!!![/quote] And the other thing is that if your bass starts rattling on you know you can stop it dead easily just by adjusting the truss rod.

[quote name='Mlucas' post='1163460' date='Mar 15 2011, 06:21 PM']I know all the notes on the E and A strings and could point them out pretty quickly but I have never actually bothered to transfer it to the upper strings simply because I prefer the tone I get off moving up the fret on strings instead of switching to the higher string. I'm weird I know.[/quote] Well, I suppose you get to save a fair bit when your strings need changing...

I've got one of those on my Peavey - dead handy it is as well. I made a short jack lead up so I can dangle the tuner in a convenient position around the front of the amp head. Might vary from make to make, but on my amp I can use it regardless of whether the 'Mute' button is on or off.

You need to insure it at replacement cost or else you're going to struggle to replace anything that gets broken/lost if your endorsement deal dries up.

[quote name='JTUK' post='1163285' date='Mar 15 2011, 04:32 PM']All connections are good and solid... but could not get too much access to the driver through a pretty tiny opening for the attenuator plate. I think unless it is a manufacturing fault..which would be hard to prove, this is down to me so I will take the thing apart myself and see if the speaker can take a signal. But..I can't recall a time when this would have failed... as in slowly died and therefore you would hear that, I think.[/quote] Knew you wouldn't be able to resist it. Thing is, if you were using two of those cabs at moderate volume then I'd guess you probably wouldn't notice it go down.

[quote name='Bucket Head' post='1163174' date='Mar 15 2011, 02:53 PM']yea ill try emailing them i see what u mean, the guy i bought it from was a house clearance guy and had no idea what it was he maybe have even had a power supply but i unfprtunatly did not ask but yea ill try emailing them i guess they wont mind if worst comes to worst i can just use my transformer from my work and change the input so i can plug it in and hope its good [/quote] If you have a 110V transformer available then plug the amp in and see if it works. If it works then it's a 110V model. If it doesn't then it's either a 240V model or dead

I'm 47 now. No beer belly, still got all my own teeth, hair and joints . I keep myself fit and everything still works the same way it did when I was 20. Gear wise, I got to a sensible level of quality (for me at least) when I was in my mid 20's and have just maintained that level over the years. Just starting to go a bit grey now, but that gives me an air of authority when I'm doing something really stupid.

[quote name='JTUK' post='1162700' date='Mar 15 2011, 08:31 AM']Talked to the dealer who said by all means check out the back panel for wiring. It is all very clean and tidy with clip-on connects mostly. I plugged in the amp and turned the horn attentuator up on full...and I hardly get a sound from it but the signal does get through...and no sound at all out of the big 12". hmmm[/quote] I think I'd try and get a peek at the driver - can you see if the 12" driver connections are intact from the back panel? Depending on how daring you're feeling, it might be worth bypassing everything and connecting your amp directly to the 12" driver - that'd give you an instant idea of whether the cab has to go back or if there's something daft going on with the existing wiring loom that you can fix yourself.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='1162989' date='Mar 15 2011, 12:52 PM']Might be a long shot since the sell-out but you could try emailing SWR to find out if that serial no. is for a US or European model. I do find it hard to believe that an amp that old could be in this country and not be a 230V model, unless someone immigrated with it and then left it in their attic for years.[/quote] It might explain the price it was sold for though...

Aye, but there are strings attached...

Your amp requires a 4A slow blow fuse. If you take a look at the metal end of the fuse you will see some writing - make sure it says T4A. If it says F4A or just 4A then you've got the wrong type of fuse. If you are using the correct fuse type and are still blowing fuses then the amp needs to go off to a tech (or retailer if still under warranty).

It's not that hard to do. The notes run in a set order (A, A#, B, C, C#, D, D#, E, F, F#, G, G#). In the context you are looking at here, a 'flat' is just an alternative to a 'sharp' (so a Bb is the same as an A#). You already know what the open strings are (E, A, D, G) Memorise the notes on the 3rd, 5th, 7th and 9th frets to begin with and that'll give you a good starting off point. Once you can find those without thinking about it too hard then you've just got two notes to learn between each fret position.

[quote name='PVTele' post='1162426' date='Mar 14 2011, 09:35 PM']Don't exaggerate The Behringer B215D powered cab is rated at 550 Behringer watts (peak power in other words) and 345W RMS. Having said that, I do wish manufacturers in general (not just Behringer) would quote power as RMS into 4 ohms, and into 8 ohms, and then we'd all know where we stood [/quote] It was just a number off the top of my head , but yes, I totally agree that it's about time manufacturers worked to a single standard so that like for like comparisons can be made. I think ours is the only industry where a standard measurement hasn't been adopted!

[quote name='yorks5stringer' post='1162415' date='Mar 14 2011, 09:26 PM']"Continous 500 watts, peak 960 watts" These are not cheap, c £600 each![/quote] Ouch - that's expensive! Those figures don't really mean anything though as we have no idea what criteria they have used to make the measurements. As they were £600 each then I'd be inclined to get in touch with the retailer and explain you aren't happy with the quality of them. I have to say that I've not seen Proel kit being used anywhere before, it's mostly Peavey, JBL, EV and HK kit around here.

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='1162371' date='Mar 14 2011, 09:00 PM']I'm looking at buying an old school SVT 2 but they don't seem to have a gain knob, any reason?[/quote] Not all amps have them. They just leave the power amp stage running at a preset 'max' level and use the volume control to control the pre amp volume. The idea was to remove the option of creating distortion accidentally.

[quote name='yorks5stringer' post='1162335' date='Mar 14 2011, 08:38 PM']The current band PA is an HK Lucas 600, 400 watts into a 15" speaker sub and 150 watts each into 2 X8 " speakers. It's heavy to roll around, the 1 sub gets in the way and for only vocals I thought some self powered cabs would be less hassle and a more powerful answer. The Proel Flash 12HA's I've bought actually seem quieter with a MP3 into my desk even though they are rated at 500 watts each, as you are told not to run it with the clipping light on constantly. I've read reviews of the Proels and they seem highly regarded and are not cheap: are my ears deceiving me? PS and to cap it all, when first switched on they are quite noisy too....[/quote] That would depend on how Proel have defined their '500W'. If they've done it 'Behringer style' then in real terms those cabs are probably about 120W each.

[quote name='PVTele' post='1162090' date='Mar 14 2011, 05:52 PM']Please don't just plug it in anyway - it really is very likely indeed to blow up Do you have a friendly local music shop with a repair service? I know if it were mine, I could take it in to my usual place and they'd check it out free of charge, and give me a price for a decent working internal repair. If you could do that, then you'd have a solid place to start considering your options...[/quote] +1 Mercury Magnetics have a website listing their transformers. The transformer shown in the photos is an old version and data about it is scarce. They made three versions - 100V, 120V and 240V, so there's a fair chance that it'll go bang!