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Posts posted by Fishman
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i'm gonna go with the router – scary, but I have confidence 😉
Thanks for all the replies and sound advice
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it's just a smidgen to accommodate the Haussell MM pickup – the body is a new one and the short edge is not quite right, just a couple of mm nearer the bridge
I will experiment with a chisel on some scrap, but although I'm a novice, I have done a few bits and pieces that have been better with the router
It's part of a slooooooow build thread so I'll update there soon
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one more question… what cutting depth do I need on the router bit?
It's for running along the edge of my Stingray pup cavity
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no Status logo on headstock or is it hidden in a reflection or whatever?
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Alas, no longer mine, but thought I'd better record my ownership here, for no particular reason.
I bought the fretless in 1988 from ABC Music in Oxford – it started life as a fretless and was fretted in the first year – Pete confirmed this to me when I took it over for some fettling of the electronics back in 2007. I had it returned to it's original fretless state by Paul Herman via Charlie Chandler's just after Pete passed away.
I wonder where they are now?
Fretted is W2446 and the fretless is W2516
😥
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Thanks chaps – tungsten carbide it is then
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I need a 1/4 inch diameter router bit for enlarging an existing pickup cavity – what type and brand should I buy?
All advice appreciated
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On 16/07/2020 at 13:57, SpondonBassed said:
Didn't they sell a full set of screws with it then?
no screws
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another neck plate supplier if you need it:
https://tlcguitargoods.com/en/neck-plate-bass-6-hole-music-man-style-stainless-steel.html
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I have this template too – bought from The Netherlands – you're right, it's out on every measurement
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On 30/06/2020 at 10:49, songofthewind said:
David Dyke's Instagram feed
Have you got a link for this please?
David Dyke's Instagram
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15 hours ago, uk_lefty said:
Going to leave it a bit, I should be working tbh
I know what you mean! I'm working from home and can't help but pick up a bass in my office several times day 😀
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I'm nearing the end of the slowest build ever and I'm thinking of what to put on top of the Fiebings black leather dye I've applied to the swamp ash – my question is, what are the best options for a durable satin finish over the dye?
Will the solvents in wax, tru-oil, etc reactivate the dye and lift it, or is there something better out there – advice please!
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On 24/05/2020 at 15:10, NancyJohnson said:
There's a wonderful art restoration channel on You Tube called Baumgartner Restoration, which operates out of Chicago. Julian Baumgartner regularly uses tissue paper (or later on a stronger Japanese version), which is pasted to the front of paintings to stabilise the paint layer while he reverses previous restorations (generally on the rear of the canvas). It's fascinating stuff and is similar to what @TheGreek, the honourable member for Hatfield, describes above.
Wow! As a photographer who does lots of professional retouching, albeit in Photoshop, I take my hat off to this chap – watched at x2 speed
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Tidy routing!
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4 hours ago, Happy Jack said:
The unit was designed for permanent installation, including hard-to-get-to shelves and the back of cupboards. Solution? All inputs/outputs on the front, nothing whatever on the sides, back, top or bottom.
Very sensible piece of design, if you ask me. Which you didn't, of course ...
Thanks @Happy Jack – I knew there would be good reason as soon as I posted 🤐
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how did this work out?
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ah yes, I have some of that and will try it and report back, thanks @BassBunny
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sanded out – what am I saying?! The guard has a kind of rough surface
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or is that the back?
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mains cable into the front panel – that's not weird 🙃
So .... I'm building a bass
in Build Diaries
Posted
ace work all round - the j retro is the business!