-
Posts
324 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Shop
Articles
Posts posted by Fishman
-
-
1 hour ago, Joe Nation said:
Try your local motorcycle repairer, they're usually good with welding random bits like that.
Good shout – I know just the person
Cheers!
- 1
-
Would anyone be able to recommend someone who could weld a couple of small hinges?
They are the hinges from an oven door that are no longer available as spares – trying to avoid shelling out for a new oven just for the sake of a couple of 10 quid pieces of metal
Here's part from a spares website – it's the small nib circled in red that needs drilling out on the old ones and a new rod inserting in it's place – the whole piece is about 43mm in length, the nib is approx 3.5mm diameter and should protrude about 4–5mm
Mods: please move this post if it's in the wrong place
-
9 hours ago, Fishman said:
My new route is Fiebings black leather dye
I should also add that all the others I tested had either a warm or cold tint – the Fiebings is neutral, and very black!
-
On 15/04/2022 at 00:59, fleabag said:
My new route is Fiebings black leather dye
You won't be disappointed with the Fiebings black dye – I tested four or five different wood dyes and stains including the Crimson one and they all had some show-through – the Fiebings is super-black at the first coat – it goes on nice and even. I should really finish the bass I used it on – see the dye here:
- 1
-
Alex bought my MIJ Mustang. Lovely chap and a pleasure to deal with.
- 1
-
21 hours ago, Mister RLP said:
Afternoon. Lovely bass. What’s the weight please?
Thanks, yes, it's a cracker, looks mint – weight is 3.4kg or 7.5 pounds, weighed on kitchen scales so probably not spot on but near enough
For anyone looking to arrange their own courier (my preference), disassembled in a box would be approx 80x35x15cm
The hard shell case is approx 121x43x15cm, weight is also approx 3.5kg
- 1
-
Happy to post (UK only) or meet halfway depending on distance
-
3 hours ago, Boffin said:
I'm so glad this worked out. The tension I felt while you waited those 3 hours to see if the bass kept it's tuning was painful. Almost as painful as seeing you strip it down.
It was my first bass guitar and I struggled with the high action so it's really good to see it better than new.
Hello Boffin!
Dean
- 1
-
Saturday bump 🙂
-
Nut width is 38mm
-
-
I've tweaked the outline slightly and will print another paper copy this week to test the fit – then I should be ready to source a laser-printed acrylic copy – just enquiring about bevelling the edges
I'm going continue this thread in my Stingray build thread over on Build Diaries:
-
1 hour ago, MrDinsdale said:
Ps nice work on the stingray, looking great!
Thanks! Just about to revisit the build and finish it – I'm not playing right now so have been playing it unplugged, without pups etc – currently tweaking a template for a new scratch plate, to be laser cut from acrylic – there's a thread in the Repairs and Technical section, which I might move to the SR4 build – try the Fiebings, you won't be disappointed!
- 1
-
I've tried the Crimson stain and a couple of others, but they were all a fair bit less than solid black, with some show-through – the only one that is truly black that I've found is Fiebings Leather Dye
One day I will finish this build – I'm about to re-apply the leather dye:
- 1
-
Fed up with MM's lack of precision* and difficulty finding a third-party scratch plate that actually fits I decided to use my day-job skills as a designer and create a new template that I'll get laser-cut in acrylic
This is a scan of a my genuine 2004 Stingray plate that was modified ages ago at Charlie Chandler's for the J pickup (which is slightly off-centre). Note how the screw holes are all over the place, although the MM pickup was perfectly centred horizontally.
I have two other Stingray builds in progress which will also use this template (one MM+P, the other P+J), although I might reposition the screw holes, or maybe not as it doesn't really show when it's on the bass.
Also, the curves of the original plate are quite odd, almost hand-cut – this template uses only one vector point at each side and one at the bottom for a perfect bezier curve.
* As for the strings not lining up over the pole pieces, don't get me started – I know they've fixed that now but it bugged me for years so I always went with closed covers
- 1
-
I'm afraid there is nothing more to say other than 'loose' and 'they won't keep things in tune'
Some more details… they are open and, er, that's about it
I'll get them into the vice and apply the hammer to them
-
Come on chaps, don't leave me hanging…
-
Is there something that can be done to remedy loose tuners on a 70s Aria P bass?
They looks great, all pitted and flaky chrome, but they won't keep things in tune
-
flat board?
-
-
What's the thinnest that Wenge or Maple could be planed down to?
I've sourced some nice pieces but 5 or 6mm is a bit too thick for a scratch plate – can it go any thinner and still be workable or rigid enough?
-
Try GSP basses over on thefretboard.co.uk - Graham made a couple of stingray bodies for me and a lovely fretless neck
-
ain't that the case – to quote @Andyjr1515, I have a cunning plan 🙂
- 1
-
why the heck don't pickup manufacturers stick to the same dimensions for pickup screw positions and case dimensions?
I bought a Haussel J that is quite a bit smaller than anything I've come across before – so what? I hear you say – well, the pickguard just doesn't look right now, with a sizeable gap around, compared to the previous J (Delano) and just to make things worse the magnet pairs don't line up correctly
I also bought a Haussel MM which is also slightly different to a stock one and the Delano MM
OK, rant over 😶
Pain in the custom neck
in Build Diaries
Posted
That is a pain – maybe it's the maple – I had none of this when I sanded my swamp ash Stingray body 🤔