obbm

[quote name='ali-stare' post='8751' date='May 29 2007, 07:16 PM']is that a custom pickguard with the pic of the bloke holding a camera or did you buy it with that? [/quote] It's a mirror guard that I bought and fitted. It matches the control plate rather well. The hands and cmaera are mine taking the picture. Next?

As you seem so insistent, here you are. I've just changed the bridge to a BadassII. Will take some more pix soon.

Well I guess those of you who have paid nothing have been lucky. The package was sent USPS Express Mail. It was described "guitar repair part" Value $60.00 Postage $28.06 I didn't get charged any duty just VAT and the dreaded clearance fee. I've recently bought some string from the US for $62.40 and they just whistled through.

Hi Trev.

but the Penguin never won over Batman.

All sorted. Shim from old store card and judicious filing seems to have done the trick. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[quote name='Alemboid' post='7710' date='May 27 2007, 05:17 PM']OBBM: much better to deal with you of course! But, I placed an order for stuff today and can confirm that for credit card orders at least, anything over £20+VAT is indeed FREE delivery and has been for as long as I can remember. I've made dozens of orders with Farnell and have never paid a penny for shipping. Of course they won't give the friendly, Bass Player Aware (tm) treatment that you can, and that counts for a lot. B.[/quote] Interesting. I use a different part of Farnell which is where those shipping charges came from. Unit prices are less but you have to spend more for free shipping.

[quote name='Alemboid' post='7662' date='May 27 2007, 03:11 PM']Farnell sell the Neutrik right-angle jack for £2.13+VAT. Minimum order (including whatever else you might want) is £20 though - I usually seem to think of something however and postage is free. Edit: £1.88+VAT if you buy 10. Farnell are an extremely efficient operation BTW. [url="http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Connectors/Audio/NEUTRIK/NP2RCS/displayProduct.jsp?sku=439095"]http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Connectors/Audio....jsp?sku=439095[/url] Personally I wouldn't use anything other than the Neutrik connectors, they've a proper cable clamp and a well put togther lead is close to indestructible. B.[/quote] Farnells delivery charges are : [i]At the date of issue of these Conditions the following Standard Delivery Charges apply: A. In relation to all orders placed by account holding customers and by non account customers i Orders up to £14.99 - charge £5.99; ii Orders between £15 and £29.99 - charge £4.99; iii Orders between £30 and £39.99 - charge £3.99. iv Orders over £40.00 - no charge.[/i] That makes it very expensive to buy a single connector or even a few. If anyone needs the occasional jack plug then pm me.

[quote name='ped' post='7368' date='May 26 2007, 10:38 PM']I went fairly deep on each saddle - you can, after all, always raise the saddle to compensate. I went at least an A string deep into each one.[/quote] That'll probably do it Chris. I shall continue with the file tomorrow.

How deep? I've already filed a string depth in the A bridge and it's almost right but reading the blurb one of the strong points is the construction of the bridge. File too far into it and you move away from the design criteria. I suspect that I really need to shim the neck and that I've f**cked the bridge.

The bridge is on but it needs to come down to get a nice low action. Problem is the bridge saddles are already at the bottom of their adjustment. How do you get it right?

I've got 2 basses with blue top edge lights. Never had a problem with them getting lost, just me.

Dymo tape? Laser print onto label media.

I wanted a Badass II for Pinky. UK prices seem to be around £54 inc postage but cheaper from the USA, so i ordered one from bestbassgear in the US - £47.03 inc shipping. Today I got an invoice from Parcel Farce for £21.18 for VAT and clearance. Total cost of bridge - £68.21. Might as well bought at home and saved myself £14.00.

Si's bought some cables, etc. Always a pleasure to deal with.

Other: Epi UL is solid-state Ashdown ABM500 is hybrid Sound Cities are all-valve

I've tried many different makes of strings over the years but always felt something was not quite right Now I have settled on DRs for most of my basses. I buy on-line from the USA. Outstanding are Lo-Riders (Stainless) on the Lakland DJ5, Lo-Riders (Nickel) on the Lakland Duck Dunn and Hi-Beams on the Fender Jazz. In a word, they work for me.

Well as you guys seem keen to take on the organisation of the SE Bash I'll stop looking for possible venues in or around Guildford. Good hunting.

If I remember correctly the VA400 is effectively the same as the VA350. Circuit diagram is [url="http://www.britishaudioservice.com/schem/Series%206/VA350%20&%20Hexa%20Head.pdf"] here[/url]

Age is an attitude of mind, at least that's what I keep trying to convice myself. Hi Mart.

[quote name='dood' post='2051' date='May 19 2007, 10:02 AM']What? Am I hearing this correctly? The vents and location of the handles affect the amp's tone???[/quote] I'm surprised you didn't realise that.

I voted Lakland because these days it's usually Lakland Daryl Jones 5-string with J-Retro and Lakland Duck Dunn but if I'm feeling Fenderish it could be '96 50th Japanese Jazz with J-Retro or '78 Precision with A-neck or if it's a Musicman day it might be '80 pre-EB Stingray or '03 Stingray 5 with Status neck, Nordstrand pick-up and East electronics. or it might just be '05 Status Stealth 5 It all depends on what mood I'm in and whether its a gig or a jam. Yes I'm spoilt for choice but I've worked over 40 years to get here.

You should try a Google on "Bridging Amplifier" First result was [url="http://www.bcae1.com/bridging.htm"]this[/url]

[quote name='acidbass' post='1862' date='May 18 2007, 10:51 PM']My 4U rack contains 3U of Ampeg SVT and 1U of blank rack strip! I got one without vents though as I believe this gives a much better definition to the low end and a slightly more compressed midrange. [/quote] I agree with you about the vents however the type and location of the side handles will make a big difference to the slap tone.

Thanks for all your suggestions. Firstly I'm not a pearly person. The Lakland Jerry Scheff I owned for a while had a pearl guard on CAR and it looked rather old fashioned. You might want to debate that but I don't. I'm old but I'm not old fashioned. I know gold anodised is very traditional for a CAR body but gold doesn't really go with chrome hardware does it. Ideally a chrome guard would be great but where can you get one of those? I'm currently thinking either gloss black or silver which would go well with the hardware.