Mr. Foxen

Hahaha, that sounded dreadful. Double checked was a 'shreds' video. [quote][i]no description available[/i][/quote] Edit: Maybe its like the guy in that kung fu parody film where they taught him to punch himself.

There is a 100w valve head for £250 in for sale, its built to be clean, and appears to have most of the relevant stuff replaced so should be pretty good to go, that is a good way to go for the clean valve experience.

[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1352759555' post='1867214'] It's not that a person is "more likely" to blow a speaker underpowered, but it can happen. In a nutshell, it's this: when the amp is peaked out and can't deliver any more power, it clips the signal. These clips are, in essence, immediate DC going to the speakers. Because it is a clip, the ramp on the front side of the wave form is pretty steep compared to non-clipping signal. So one or both of two things can happen: 1) the speaker perceives an immediate jump in signal, and if it's too compliant, can blow its extension on the overshoot, and 2) DC means amperage, which means heat, which over time, if the speaker coil can't dissipate the heat, it will burn out the coil or disintegrate the coil form from the heat, or even kill the magnet (old Alnico speakers) Most new speakers, especially musical instrument and reinforcment drivers, are designed to take at least some abuse. But the best bet is, going in, match everything so that the rated load of the speakers is at least the rated power ouput of the amp, if not more, and always watch the power amp to make sure it doesn't clip. Most modern amps have some sort of protection circuit or "soft clipping" circuit that also helps prevent too much DC from clipping from going to the speakers, and/or a thermal protection shutdown. And occasional "red" peaks are no big deal, but the amp should always be monitored visually to make sure it isn't constantly clipping, if for no other reason than the deterioration of the sound quality from the distortion. [/quote] There is no DC from a not broken amp. Doesn't work like that. Even if it did, dc doesn't break speakers, you can put a 9v battery across a speaker and it is fine.

Might just be a torn bit you can glue some tissue over. From what I've seen Ampeg techs can't manage fixes that aren't 'replace the whole module'.

My main one is pretty much as good as could possibly be for the price.

Mismatched speakers is unpredictable, so can't make a reliable recommendation.

Can pick up MAG heads easy enough, if you keep an eye open. Bit of patience in lieu of outlay. Might get an ABM one if lucky.

Have a look at the speaker and find any numbers and such on it, and google it, might figure the direct replacement.

[quote name='steve-soar' timestamp='1352751067' post='1867043'] Any good engineer or producer will insist on playback through tiny "car-radio" speakers. [/quote] If they are aiming for a market that is appropriate to.

Got a budget in mind? And what sorta sound are you going for? Best selling combo whole. Pair of 2x10s is a good start. Edit: check you like the sound of the 2x10 alone, as long as you do, all good.

Isn't the player that is the issue with the depth, dynamics and musicality of a CD, its the production and mastering. The output from a CD is going to be the same whatever, because its digital, and you have to make a special effort to mess it up from there, the rest of the reproduction system is going to be the same for both formats.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tuscany-Bird-Bass-in-Cherry-/160921087774?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2577a4ef1e [quote]NOT just another copy but fine collector replicas of some of the coolest vintage guitars and basses of all times[/quote] [quote][font="Arial"][font="Arial,Arial"]We carefully respected all the original specifications using original US woods like basswood[/font][/font][/quote] Wha? Not a copy, a replica, even though it lacks anything in common, and also true to original spec, without having any common elements.

The is a Hiwatt 200watter for £925 or thereabouts locally, unless it has sold. If 100w is all you are after, those are about too. Plus there are tons of other amps that have more in common with the Hiwatts for much cheaper. There's a original 200w Hiwatt for just over a grand linked in my sig for starters.

How much are you thinking of spending? I kind of get the impression you are figuring Hiwatt for more expensive than they are. The local 200w Hiwatt is only a couple of hundred more than that V4, twice the power and even the reissue Hiwatt are probably ahead of Ampeg in terms of build.

If you can get them to drop it as far as Easton/Greenbank I can help, but I don't have a car.

Amps made rpund KT88s will have more headroom, KT88s bodged into the wrong amp won't. Ampeg aren't comparable with Hiwatt either, its like comparing a Ford transit to a Rolls Royce.

Plenty of bass speakers have HF elements in them.

If it is an early one, you are going to have to have it recapped before the low end it is capable of is going to happen, even then, it isn't their forte. Of course the sound of being old and a bit crap is the authentic vintage sound. I prefer the sound of 'well made amp, working properly'. Edit: Couldn't be more far removed from aHiwatt, even the shonky repro ones you can get now. There is a repro Dr201 for under a grand in music shop near me, pm for details.

+1 on it mostly being in the production/mastering. There a loads of factors to that, loudness war, and a bunch I suspect is down to when making a record was really expensive, you had to be really good to get a record made, and now they are just knocked out on CD, minimal band time recording, and a digital production job to cover the half-arsed playing and recording which ends up making it all sound a bit samey.

Basically, never listen to what that that guy says. Totally doesn't work like that. Only thing is a clipped wave (amps can't actually put out square waves, needs infinite bandwidth) can toast tweeters an midranges if there is a passive crossover.

I think there is some fun coupling a valve preamp with a class D power module, because of the sensitivity/impedance requirements. Call Matamp as they were working on that sort of thing, probably going to be easiest to get a valve pre you like and run it into a Peavey IPR or another lightweight head.

Ha, cab makers got away with unscientific porting for a pretty long time.

They can convert Squiers to ipods? Skills. More skills than using dubious goods to launder dubious money, since that defeats all of the point of laundering money.

If I was nearby (and didn't have two Barefaced 2x15s)... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Peavey-2-x-15-Bass-speaker-Cab-cabinet-/261126590541?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item3ccc5b904d

I think the value is in becoming aware of your posture. Like most things, you learn it by rules, and when you understand it, you forget the rules.