Mr. Foxen

The preamps in these put out loads of noise as they are which will feed the power section, and without a load, it throws off the equilibrium of the amp so it can go into oscillation (like mine was doing, putting out about 5hz, so I could see me speakers going in and out) and drive itself to full tilt. Basically, in an ideal world with a perfectly working and designed amp it would be fine, but also it would be plugged into a load. If you want a SC, I have one going that is totally rebuilt, pretty much using them without a fair bit of rebuilding is mistreatment, there are a few time sensitive components, like the resistors an the capacitors and the valves. An dirt sensitive ones like the pots and the switches. And dropping sensitive ones like the chassis and the box. And the transformers don't like being switched to wrong voltage or impedance respectively. The turret board and wires seem fine though.

[quote name='nottswarwick' post='1332978' date='Aug 8 2011, 11:39 PM']Folk keep mentioning the di? Surely good desks have pad and gain controls. Our Allen and Heath certainly does....[/quote] I think it is about 40db of pad you need.

Actually I just remembered these guys existed, and the mini bass is funny and an excuse to post this.

[quote name='KingBollock' post='1332632' date='Aug 8 2011, 07:51 PM']'Ang on a minute, you've lost me. Are you talking about the Laney Klipp or the Carlsboro Stingray? I didn't break the Stingray and it's that that I meant wasn't rare enough, I assumed you meant the Stingray when you said they weren't really rare because it said they were rare on that Ebay page. I didn't break it, I just hated it. It was the Laney that I broke and I loved that.[/quote] The Sound City in the original post is the one I'm referring to. 'Rare' is part of the very limited description. I know they aren't rare because I have 9 of them sat about my house. Might be able to sort out a new rebuilt Klipp for you going forward.

That the orange one? Bassist from Geisha uses one that he describes as 'the dog's kicked in bollocks'. I had one, made me do widdly shred bass, from the definition, moved it on.

[quote name='KingBollock' post='1332532' date='Aug 8 2011, 06:41 PM']Not as rare as they should be. Unless you count landfill sites...[/quote] They are great if you don't break them.

Also, really not very rare.

[quote name='KingBollock' post='1332326' date='Aug 8 2011, 04:24 PM']Could this kind of thing cause all the capacitors inside to lose their innards? I had a Laney Klipp when I was a kid and I used to wire all sorts of different speakers to it, in all kinds of configurations, without knowing anything about impedance or valves, in fact I still know bugger all about valves... I just know that one day I saw the magic blue smoke coming out and when I opened it up (I used to open everything electronic up when I could) all the capacitors had popped open.[/quote] Don't still have it somewhere do you? Those caps are easy to replace, an I have a big bag of them I just ordered. I don't know if impedance fun can blow the filter caps, usually it is valves an resistors that go other than the tranny itself. They did use pretty cheap caps I think, a ton of smaller ones instead of big cans.

[quote name='neepheid' post='1332309' date='Aug 8 2011, 04:15 PM']I don't know what that means, other than I'm guessing it's a bad thing and to expect fireworks/loss of magic smoke soon?[/quote] If you have a valve amp on with no speaker attached, all sorts of bad things can happen, as the equilibrium of the circuit is reliant on the output transformer having a load on it (completing the circuit of its secondary winding). Having a speaker and the impedance selector is wrong but not fatal, having no load at all can really mess things up, like the amp goes into oscillation and totally cooks itself.

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOUND-CITY-120-MK4-HEAD-GUITAR-AMP-ALL-VALVE-/180707580658?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item2a1302daf2"]Gogo gadget running a valve amp into no load.[/url]

Anyone hit the report button? Sure it helps any claim after the sale.

Number them and pull them, putting back in the same place makes no odds. When was it last biased and how old were the valves when it was done? Bias will ahve moved a bit anyway if they were new since they wore in.

not quite sure what you mean by that. But basically, you have a cabinet that isn't doing what you require of it. Changing speakers will not help. You need a better cabinet, or more of the same, if you want that sound, but louder.

Looks kind of like it could be a casting flaw that has cracked the metal. They gradually crystallise over many years an go ping eventually.

[quote name='SidVicious1978' post='1331583' date='Aug 8 2011, 12:38 AM']cheers so if i changed the speaker to 200w would that still happen[/quote] You'd have a 200w speaker in it, that's all. The watt rating is nothing to do with when the speaker breaks up, it is just the point where the voice coil melts or fails. Chances are the speaker would also be different in a bunch of other ways, likely ones that would make it fart at lower volumes as it wouldn't be as suited to the cab.

That would probably be the speakers hitting their excursion limit. Means you need more of them, or to back off the bass on your amp. And shut off the ashdown sub octave.

Or oil finish it yourself. Good clean up and wipe on Rustins danish oil (with all the hardware off) an you are good to go. Few days work and drying. Easy to patch up. Oil finishing really isn't a pro luthier job.

Two 16 ohm speakers in parallel makes 8ohm, so that is fine. Crackling rather than farting sounds like a loose connection, so check that first. The watt rating is nothing to do with bad noises from speakers though. If you find they are melting, then you want to look at that rating.

For all the odds it makes, might as well tippex out the 2 and replace with a 4. The RMS wattage is not a useful sort of number to base cab performance on. 400w drivers might fart out earlier than the ones in there, and be quieter.

RMS rating doesn't tell you anything useful anyway, so not much point in knowing it. If you are wondering what sort of power head to use, the answer is any, they all have a volume control somewhere along the kine. Listen for the cab farting out, if it does, back off the volume, if that isn't loud enough, you need more cabs.

[quote name='Annoying Twit' post='1330608' date='Aug 7 2011, 07:12 AM']"Lawsuit" Ibanez Artist bass. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190563102883&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...atchlink:top:en[/url] So, who was it that sued Ibanez for making their own original designs then?[/quote] Rickenbacker probably.

Ampeg distributor.

Volume knob sorts the level jump, if has a big range as it has the juice to go direct to a power amp. The high knob is boost only, although the character simulation of the pedal includes a speaker sim with the treble roll off built in (switchable on later ones). So bear that in mind.

Does look a lot like a 70s catalogue bass.