clauster

[quote name='Muzz' timestamp='1376577283' post='2176341'] Sorry, but this is bollocks. The clients couldn't care less about particular rigs, much less bass rigs - how the band look is important, but not the make of kit. I've played many, many gigs with my Schroeder (invariably stood on end, so the nameplate is the wrong way, too - I'm such a rebel!) and never ever had any comment about the bass gear. And you're at least as likely to shift gear a distance around function/wedding centres than in and out of pubs and clubs. "The guests are all in reception by the lifts, so if you could load in through the back doors and use the stairs...we're on the third floor...can you be set up and soundchecked in half an hour? We'll need the room...thanks so much..." [/quote] That's your experience. Mine's been different.

£1k! I just saw the pic and thought that it looks cool in a Danelecrto kind of way. Was expecting a price similar to them.

[quote name='bumnote' timestamp='1376575808' post='2176309'] From my point of view, although very well recommended the one thing that puts me off your product is the painted finish. I would much prefer a tolex finish. I have been used tolex covered since I started laying and with a suitable cover and reasonable care handling, the tolex on all my amps has stood up well. [/quote] For me though, while the painted finish isn't the most attractive finish I've ever seen, it's durable and easy to repair should any damage happen to it.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1376567642' post='2176115'] The idea of people preferring enormous, heavy gear that actually sounds inferior is quite mind-boggling! [/quote] I think this attitude is a big part of what gets up people's noses about BF. Not all other heavier (or otherwise) gear sounds inferior. BF sounds good to my ears, but I don't think it's the last word in bass tone. Yes, for their size and weight they sound amazing, but if size and weight aren't an issue, there are rigs that sound as good if not better to me. They also look better made as well. I did say "look" better made. I have no concerns about the build quality.

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1376565004' post='2176022'] You are seriously overestimating how much people are going to look at you. You are the bass player!!! [/quote] Yeah, (unlikely as it seems) I'm the tall, handsome one in my band

And my Compact only just fits in my boot, no way would the 69er go in there.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1376564707' post='2176005'] You sir, should get yourself a Barefaced '69er! [/quote] I'll tell the Mrs you made me do it

Ooh that was a long post. Need a lie down now.

For me, my Barefaced Compact is pretty much the ideal cab. (My ideal would be an 8X10, constructed of gravity neutral material that could be folded down to hit in the boot of a hatchback). I'm playing in an originals band, mostly for the fun of it. 50:50 as to whether I'm DI'ed or whether my rig is putting out the bass for FOH, so tone at volume is important as is being audible when I'm turned down a bit. There's always multiple bands on the same night so a quick setup/breakdown is important. There may be kit share, so idiot proof kit is imperative. Chances are I won't be parked within 100M of the venue, so light and easy to move is important. My compact sounds great for my tone at volume, but still works as a personal monitor. It's small enough to get onstage and off again without difficulty even when there's a load of other people moving stuff etc. The Compact will safely handle whatever my LH500 can out out. It's light enough to carry to the car even if that's 1/2 mile away. If I was in an originals band that had aspirations of making it big would I be using the Compact? No way! Chances are it'd be a big Ashdown or Ampeg. Maybe Trace or Hartke or Peavey or Mark Bass or GK. Half of being professional is looking professional and those are manufacturers you see on big stages. And there's many more requirements above weight/portability in this market. A function band? [s]Again, probably not. I'd want something a bit more elegant and sophisticated looking than my current rig. The clients would be expecting a professional appearance of a certain quality for their money. In that situation I'd happily trade that for the ease of movement of the rig as it wouldn't need to be moved so quickly or so far[/s]. Edit following a PM to Muzz: Yes. Anything clean and smart is absolutely fine. Just don't use heavily mojo'ed vintage amps that look like they're about to fall apart. Do I think Alex is making great products with Barefaced? Yes, wholeheartedly. Do I think they're making cabs that everyone should use in all situations? No. Yes, the strap handle is prone to looking tatty. I've had the same sort of handle on Ashdown and Peavey gear, so I know from experience to use it when I must and other times carry the cab from underneath. Mine is still fine after 2 years. Would a strap handle that isn't prone to frayed plastic sleeve be nice? Yes, of course. Should Alex use recessed bar handles on his cabs? No. Part of his own design brief was weight. Heavier handles will compromise that. Have I had a foot fall off? Yes after knocking it against a lift door. The next day a cocktail stick a drop of superglue and 10 seconds with a screwdriver had the thing as good as new. I've had to do the same with a strap button on a US Fender in the past. Should I be telling all and sundry that Fender are crap? Actually, don't answer that because I know a lot of you will answer yes IIRC Alex, after trying and owning different cabs and finding things that didn't meet his needs with them, set out to research, design and build a cab for his own use. After making posts here (among other places) other people started asking if he could build them one. Then people asked if they could have one without the (expensive) mid-driver and crossover. The Compact was born. Customer demand meant that Alex's quest for his own cab had developed into a business opportunity. Which he took and has developed. "Good for him," I say. Yes, David Perry is trying to do similar with EAD. For the sake of balance: "Goof for him" too. Alex has now taken the concept of lightweight, loud, practical cabs and developed a range for different tones/amps but retaining those core qualities in response to customer demand. He's now exporting cabs to other countries and has created employment in his workshop. Even if his cabs aren't for you (and they may not be for me in my next project) lets give him so credit for what he has achieved.

Completely irrational, because I've used both without issue (other than a feeling of annoyance) - Onboard active EQ (unless combined with active pickups) Digital modelling

I always read the name as "Get Bent" Much worse than a tatty handle.

I think I may even be working at the Forum that night.

Bit to the North, but Siggery guitars in Crowborough, up the A26 from Newhaven, are good.

Compression can really make an acoustic come alive

[quote name='seashell' timestamp='1376321038' post='2172089'] Wise words and thanks UB. But I literally think it would take years to get profficient with it. We do do some Green Day. I'm tempted to add 'unfortunately'. Guitarist wants to take us in a direction that doesn't really suit me, I think. We'll just have to see how it all pans out. [/quote] It's not just down to tons of practise. I struggled with pick on and off, until I found the right picks for me, now it's almost as natural as fingerstyle.

Good point

Had some great replies by PM. Thank you.

[quote name='olliedf89' timestamp='1376224186' post='2170917'] Without sounding ignorant... could you briefly elaborate on that a bit? [/quote] Errm, not extensivley. But I do know two things that active electronics (and a lot of pedals) do. They provide a lower output impedance (which preserves the original signal better through cables) and provide a buffer. One or the other or both affect traditional fuzz. The mastotron has a knob you can adjust to compensate for this. I remember, a good few years back, one members quest for a "variable impedance buffer in a box" to achieve the same end. I think.

A pick is perfectly valid. It sounds different to finger-style. Use both techniques. Plus taking up the plectrum gives you avery cheap diversion for GAS until you find the pick that's right for you. You'll find few arguments between double bass players whether to use arco or pizz. Electric bassists should be the same. Use and enjoy all the techniques available to you.

Forgot to ask about bridge? I'm assuming standard five hole is correct? I'm actually tempted to go Badass II, but if I go perios, should it have the barrel type saddles or the screw thread?

Hi guys, You're hanging around in Repairs and Techincal so i really hope I get some good pointers - I'm looking to a build a "bitsa" Fender. But not just any bitsa. I play rock, punk, ska and soul/RnB (think Tamla/Stax 60s not Motown 70s/80s or anything that's passed as RnB since). I want a Fender. I've never got on with Precision necks, yet I've never managed to get a good sound out of a fretted Jazz. I'd love a YOB (1969) bass but I cannot justify the price of a vintage Fender. So the compromise is Precision body, Jazz neck, as close as poss to '69 spec. Choices I've made so far - Warmoth alder Precision body - For me, rightly or wrongly, Warmoth make the best bodies. I can get the wood I want (I believe alder was prominent in '69). Mightymite Jazz neck - The feedback seems to be that Warmoth neck profiles aren't "right". So lets save some money and get something well regarded but at a third of the price. Unless someone can recommend a period correct profile J neck with some nice figuring for less that £300? Pickup - Jason Lollar. I don't care what anyone says, this is the best sounding P pickup to my ears. Yes, Fralins, Wizard, SD etc are all excellent, but this is my personal choice. Electronics - CTS, orange-drop and a standard jack (unless anyone knows better?). Strap buttons - Schaller locks. Not right (at all) but I love 'em and the holes will still be in the right place. Now I need your help (from top down) - Machine heads - what should I be looking for to get as close as possible to what Fender were using in '69? If it can't be achieved, I'll use standard machines (lollipop or clover?), but can I get I get a template for '69? I'd drill to screw holes, plug them and then drill and fit modern ones. Strap button on headstock - still present in '69? Fret wire size - what were Fender using then? A new Mightymite with an immediate refret is still cheaper than a Warmoth/Allparts. Pickuard - 3-ply? Black, tort, white, mint? Knobs - I'm assuming flat-top knurled chrome? Ashtray/finger rest holes - I don't want ashtrays or a tugbar, but I do want an appearance of having come with them. Can I find a template for drilling period correct holes? Finish/cosmetics - Nitro or (I think) poly? What colours were in the P range in '69? I like back or white (should I go Olymic/Arctic/Vintage) and a couple of custom colours: Lake Placid Blue and Shoreline Gold, but were these options in 69? Would they have been sprayed over an existing finish? if so, what? I'm thinking the traditional 70's headstock logo was in use in '69? I'm not planning on building a "ringer". Neck pocket and neck heel will be marked as my personal tribute. No relicing. No attempts to deceive. I'm just hoping to achieve something close to Custom Shop spec at my YOB bitsa spec and at a price to fit my pocket. Thanks for any advice, Nic .

[quote name='olliedf89' timestamp='1376166981' post='2170522'] ...just had an idea... instead of matching my bass' original volume on my compressor, what if I turned the output volume right down low (and compensate for this on my amp vol), would that then quieten the signal enough for a fuzz to handle? Or am I talking out of my backside? [/quote] I think it's more an impedance matching issue than signal strength. Actives have much lower impedance.

I've got small-ish hands but didn't get on with the SS basses I've tried at all. Tried a few (Gibson SG, Fender Mustang, VM Mustang) a couple of weeks ago and they just felt cramped. I think, for me at least, neck profile is more of an issue than scale length.