skej21

If you want to be doing chordal work like Janek, I’d suggest making sure you spec narrower string spacing (16.5mm string spacing on Janek’s basses usually). It makes a world of difference when you’re moving between chord shapes at speed.

The fact they’ve released a stripped back version of the UK RBM 500 (the UK OBM 500) for £499 is pretty amazing and knocks spots off everything else in the market for lightweight, quality, 500w class D amps at the price IMO! When the established companies like Aguilar are moving the TH500 v2 for twice the price and almost half the warranty (3 vs Ashdown’s 5 years), it shows just how much of a gap there is for these releases. Well-played Ashdown! https://ashdownmusic.com/products/uk-obm-500?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=21de654dd&pr_rec_pid=15226954744194&pr_ref_pid=4471249535069&pr_seq=uniform

This just epitomises what Aguilar has become since the Daves moved on. Overpriced, lacking basic functionality with ‘new aesthetics’ designed for the “influencer” persona which they’ve gone all-in on (in place of all the established working players like Dave Swift et al that they decided to no longer support). When you look at companies like Ashdown and their NAMM26 releases (like UK-built 500w Original EVO amps for £499 vs its Aguilar counterpart v2 TH500 at £959), you can see how disconnected Aguilar have become. Trying to role it in glitter and flog it for twice the price, relying on brand premium and what brands look good for videos… I’ve seen it before with brands and feels like the writing is on the wall!

Mine came from Andertons with one that had multi region adaptors

Anderton’s also have them back in stock in time for Christmas!

Heel access truss rods are actually easy enough to access/adjust without removing the neck if you have the right tool. All of my basses have heel access, and the tool to adjust cost less than £15. I guess it’s a bit of a pain in the arse that you have to take the scratchplate off, but I’m not too fussed about that personally.

Just be wary of the advice in this thread RE aging of the finish. The Squier CV series is gloss finish and if you take sandpaper to it or try to “age” or “wear” it through use, it won’t produce the same kind of wear that nitro finish will. It also won’t yellow with age as it cures (that’s why they add an amber tint to the gloss on the neck finish of the Squiers to create an effect, almost like fake tan) If you want a bass that will age nicely over time, nitro is the only option IMO (although there are cheaper options, like Limelight, second hand AVRI or probably even Nash that will give the spec for less than this specific model [Vintera Road Worn] of basses new at RRP)

Completely agree, it’s great. I honestly cannot see how something like this would even get close for the same money!

I got an American Original Jazz Bass second hand and a stacked knob wiring loom + plate for less than £1400. It’s actually getting daft how expensive new Mex Fenders are these days!

I’ve been very close to buying the 8lber a few times this week from Peach, and this was the one big thing that puts me off (not gonna open a can of worms about why!). You’ve saved me £1400, so thanks 😂

I was lucky enough to play a lot of basses through my work in music retail over a long time, so I’m not fussy about adapting to different specs (I guess in the same a mechanic would jump in numerous cars per day and not think too much about biting points, break sensitivity etc) and I’m pretty good at being able to see those specs on paper and understand how it aligns to my preferences (so I don’t mind a punt online personally!). Like you say though, it can be a huge swing in terms of what feels right from player to player and if you’re more sensitive to those changes impacting your playing, it’s definitely worth try-before-buy.

Main differences between my 60s Am Original P and my 2003 62 AVRI P are probably in the neck to be honest. Obviously pickups etc are slightly different, but the thing that impacts the playability most when comparing them is the difference in neck specs. Am Original; 1963 C neck profile with a 9.5” radius, round-laminated rosewood fingerboard and clay dot inlays/side markers with vintage tall frets and a 1.73” nut width (bone nut). Neck depth feels bigger/more rounded. AVRI; C neck profile with a 7.25” radius, white dot inlays/side markers with vintage frets, a 1.75” nut width and a synthetic bone nut. Neck depth feels very thin/shallow. I would say too, that most of the AVRIs I’ve played over time have all been quite light (probably around 8.6-8.9lbs) but the Am Originals have been heavier.

The Am Original series basses are definitely marmite - Personally, I’m firmly in the fan club. The neck profile/radius in particular (and the clay dots) sold it for me. I have a 60s P and J from the Am Original series now and they’ll be the last ones out of the door. Got both for less than £1300 each second hand too, so not as steep as the AVRI. People who are considering buying should definitely try them out though. I have a 2003 AVRI Precision and it’s a wildly different feel to the Am Original!

Just be mindful that often a specific production year of Fender US standard for example, can be used to denote changes to specifications or to define “good” years when being referred to on forums etc. This can conflict with the actual model name/range of years produced stated by Fender. A good example of this, is that whilst the Fender US Standard Precision bass was produced between the years of 2008-2016, they made changes to the specification in 2012 and started referring to this with dealers (to help differntiate) as the ‘2012 US Standard’, even though it was produced between 2012-2016 with that spec (main improvement included a move to a Custom Shop ‘60s split coil pickup). As a result, a lot of people look for pre-2012 or post-2012 US Standards based on the spec they liked, and this often comes in the description of sales posts (despite the serial stating that a ‘2012 US Standard’ was produced in the years between 2012-2016, for example). This is also true of things like Custom Shop models, where specific production years may refer to a brand new, un-reliced model as ‘NOS (New Old Stock)’ or ‘Time Machine’ etc depending on what Fender categorized that level of relic at the time of production.

Personally, i take them out and use masking tape to affix them to the inside of the pickup cover, then put the covers back in the case/storage.