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Stagg!!!!


mikeh
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[quote name='Dr_Tom' post='1239146' date='May 21 2011, 11:25 AM']Hi,

Just bought a Stagg EDB off a fellow basschatter a few days ago and as soon as I got it home and tuned the G string the nut cracked and bit flew off, fun times.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?

I've measured it as being 1 11/16ths inches in length (which I think is standard bass guitar nut length) but its the height at 9/16ths or 14mm which is obviously a lot bigger than bass guitar nuts.

I'd be grateful for any suggestions

Cheers
Tom[/quote]

On my [u][b]first [/b][/u]Stagg EDB My nut cracked!! I took it it to my local music shop and the guitar guy replaced it but at the same time he told me the neck was warped and I had it replaced from the shop I got it from!!

So take it to be repaired and replaced with ebony!!

cheers

Kembo

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've just picked up a Stagg from a fellow basschat member (thanks Ash) and I'm completely blown away by it.

Mine seems to have none of the known issues mentioned by others and plays really well. All in all, Im finding the transition much simpler than I thought I would and, get this, even Mrs JPJ likes it! (that has got to be a first!).

The tone is a fairly convincing DB with the sub-bass backed off just a little from full on, and I'm loving playing it, although I understand its fitted with a much better set of strings than those originally fitted at the factory. For anybody contemplating the move to DB from bass guitar, I'd recommend the Stagg.

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  • 1 year later...

Have just bought a Stagg EDB 3/4 H bass. Considering that I only went into Mansons (Exeter) for a browse, it sort of bought me..

It plays beautifully and the build quality is very good. The problems with rattles and electrics seem to have been cured, just a little hiss on the headphone “out” depending on the impedance of the ‘phones, but no hiss on the main out. The nut is a little high.

Great value for money..

Bob.

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After having my Stagg for a few months i thought i might sell it due to getting a Big Bass.
However since starting to learn arco ive found it quite handy to keep around for near silent practice during the evenings when the flats around us are occupied.

Ive had only one person who plays Bass guit interested but his fathers face hit the floor when i suggested his son take a few private lessons for posture and technique then he asked about the cost of strings i could see he didnt want to buy it.
Though his son was really enjoying the longer scale and sound he could get out of the Stagg

I like my Stagg it has its quirks but so does a big bass and will only move it on when I get the royal decree from my wife. <_<

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I’m kind of in the other camp, I’ve been playing Double Bass for years now and use the “grip” and 1424 fingerings etc.
I've got fed up with playing with industrial drummers, and keyboardists with indifferent instruments who when booking would say, "Oh, make it the double, it looks the part”, and then having to hold back the feedback all night.
I once recorded the output from my upright and played it to the other band members, at one point there was more band coming out of my amp than bass..
I think that with current band playing levels, that EUB is somehow more “honest”. Keeping the action height up and experimenting with dampening under the tailpiece is key to making the Stagg work. It blows my ill fated WAV4 away...

Edited by bobmartin
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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1364514722' post='2027699']
Welcome to the stagg club :)
[/quote]

Thanks. It looks like the “niggles" have been dealt with. No rattling spike, strengthened headstock, no hum, there’s still a little hiss from the headphone out, but this seems to depend upon the impedance of the ‘phones. The set-up is good, not quite as high as my double, I’ll leave it up there, certainly no lower.

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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1364560957' post='2028163']
Yeah the foam under the strings behind the bridge is the most important mod anyway if you ask me, cool.
[/quote]

It’s interesting as to why they have string from the bridge to the tailpiece so long, they could have shortened it quite easily, maybe by going through the body like a NS. I like to have a little bit of “ring” left, its nice on slower pieces.
I’m thinking about a mod for the left shoulder, the triangle piece is a little high, a piece of shaped wood might do the trick.

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The standard 3/4 strings were not long enough, the silks were on the fingerboard by about an inch. I took the string block thing off and drilled the holes deeper so the ball ends are now nearer the bridge but the remaining wood left is not very thick, others have done the same with no long term problems but I might get a custom block made to fit with that inch added so standard strings will fit without the worry of it splitting, I will look for my old thread......

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It looks like all 3/4string sizes are 106cm or 41 3/4” which is about the length of the Staggs’ playing area. 4/4 are only 4 cm longer, that wouldn’t affect the tension too much?

Thomann sell a set for the EUB, but thats not really the point..

I wonder about a tailpiece, hmm..

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[size=4]So far the strings have been ok, they don’t have any rough finish anywhere, and haven’t marked the fingerboard in any way. The replacements are about £30 from Thomann.[/size]

[size=4]This bass seems to have dealt with the previous build issues, and in the shop it was was striking how well it worked for the money. [/size]

[size=4]I need to be careful about invalidating the guarantee, but some of the options might be,[/size]


[size=4]1 Strings through the body. The new string angle might to too steep for the bridge.[/size]

[size=4]2 Move the whole tailpiece up by 2 inches.[/size]

[size=4]3 Make and fit an new tailpiece (using the bridge profile) to the existing one with wire or nylon cord.[/size]

[size=4]4 Drill the wood out as per “Pete”.[/size]

Edited by bobmartin
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I thought about cutting a square of wood off the bridge to just move it up about 10mm and only need to countersink the ball ends by about the same thus leaving plenty of wood. If you made a new block then it would be easy enough to just drill the holes at a slight angle so the strings exit at the same angle as the factory spec one. TBF once its done most people are talking about 10 years for a set of Spiros anyway :D

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I have measured both the Stagg and my DB and the stagg has approx 10cm extra length behind the bridge, the scale length is about 5-6mm longer than the regular upright. Thinking out loud here then, so if you fit 4/4 strings designed to be weichs to the stagg the shorter scale length will make the strings floppier than the manufacturers intended so a set of 4/4 starks might give something more like a medium tension and mittels more of a weich tension, weichs then not being suitable. I have 3/4 weichs and they work well, lighther to play than my DB but not flappy or rattling etc.

Hope that makes sense? :)

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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1364645188' post='2029148']

Hope that makes sense? :)
[/quote]

Very clear thanks. I think I’ll include a set of the Stagg strings in my next Thomann order as spares in case I break one, and when the bass is out of guarantee I’ll look at it again.
4/4 size strings seem to be harder to get now, Helicores especially.

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I just did a search for "double bass tailpiece lengths" and it seems that the standard (D/B distance from the bridge to the end of the tailpiece is 1/6 of the length of the nut to the bridge. This I understand is to enhance the harmonic content of the note. The notes produced on my bass by plucking the strings the tailpiece side of the bridge are E A D G but 3 octaves up, almost perfectly in tune.
Anybody else notice this on theirs, and was it made on purpose?

Edited by bobmartin
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