Fret buzz as a beginner

[RonC]

Just look right on top of the bold, then it doesn’t matter if you adjust the trussrod from the headstock or the body, in all cases left/counterclockwise or right/clockwise is correct.

Edited Sunday at 16:47 by RonC

[RonC]

1 minute ago, lvrossem said:

aw shit by now I already followed the diagram and turned clockwise, hope I didn't mess it up and can reverse it without issue

Just turn it back, there’s no harm done.

i always place a mark with a pencil so i always know where i started.

[Stub Mandrel]

1 hour ago, JJMotown said:

 

 

 

Sorry, I find that highly ambiguous. The arrows are drawn in the same plane as the truss rod and Allen key... so it's possible to interpret those arrows as meaning either direction.

 

If you see it as looking into the end of the truss rod along the allen key, it suggests anti-clockwise as tighten.

 

 

[RonC]

[BTops]

1 hour ago, Stub Mandrel said:

 

Sorry, I find that highly ambiguous. The arrows are drawn in the same plane as the truss rod and Allen key... so it's possible to interpret those arrows as meaning either direction.

 

If you see it as looking into the end of the truss rod along the allen key, it suggests anti-clockwise as tighten.

 

 

Just looking at the diagram on its own I would agree its a bit confusing, although the image looks cut off, but the guy put context to it by saying turn left to right which is correct. 

 

Turning anticlockwise when looking at the truss rod is right to loosen it, as is turning left to right when facing the headstock.

 

Back when I was a beginner many moons ago, if someone said turn the truss rod clockwise or anticlockwise I would have no idea what they were talking about. But see both sides.

[Hellzero]

3 hours ago, JJMotown said:

A mess???

 

Simple directions. Left to right is as simple as it gets. Clockwise or anticlockwise is more confusing because looking at the bass or headstock face-on, as per the diagram has no meaning., especially to a beginner.

 

Essentially. You have convoluted this thread making it difficult to follow, as you're saying NO, to my directions, which you then agree are correct.

 

The mess is being caused by you, not understanding your left from right.

You are proving with your diagram that has created even more confusion to the OP that you are the one having problems, just see above the mess you've created.

 

I'm really fed up by people like you, unable to explain anything with the correct vocabulary and then pretending others are the culprits.

 

Next time don't interfere with such non sense as the OP was clearly lost and made it to other way round.

 

It's not because I understood your very ambiguous diagram that I agree with all the non sense you wrote.

 

Left is left, right is right and has nothing to do here when the correct words were clockwise and counter (or anti) clockwise, what everyone has been told at school.

 

Period.

[JJMotown]

11 hours ago, Hellzero said:

You are proving with your diagram that has created even more confusion to the OP that you are the one having problems, just see above the mess you've created.

 

I'm really fed up by people like you, unable to explain anything with the correct vocabulary and then pretending others are the culprits.

 

Next time don't interfere with such non sense as the OP was clearly lost and made it to other way round.

 

It's not because I understood your very ambiguous diagram that I agree with all the non sense you wrote.

 

Left is left, right is right and has nothing to do here when the correct words were clockwise and counter (or anti) clockwise, what everyone has been told at school.

 

Period.

Your ignorance is outstanding. Its not MY diagram, its one which backs up my advice is correct.

 

It's not confusing to a beginner, it makes more sense then throwing around words like clockwise or anticlockwise. I've been setting up basses for almost 30 years, and I know using clockwise etc is the right terminology. However, we're not giving advice to someone with knowledge of what they're doing.

 

Your ignorance to not comprehend the context of the OP and being a beginner with no knowledge what clockwise etc actually means, and apply appropriate language is both sad and disappointing. People like you shouldn't confuse the matter and cause this thread to become a mess. 

 

As I say, your ignorance is sad, period. Best you don't convolute further threads like this as you clearly don't understand context.

[Hellzero]

For your personal record, it used to be my job and I'm glad I'm now retired when I read your poor attempts to pretend you're the most clever person on earth, when you are so stupid.

 

You're now on my ignore list @JJMotown as I can't stand plain idiots unable to recognise their mistakes, and yes it's a plural.

[Joe Nation]

*weighing in for no reason*

 

Saying to turn something left or right implies an agreed frame of reference for what is up and down - if you turned a nut "to the left" when holding the tool above the axis of the nut, you'll get a different result to if the tool is below it. Of course for a Fender-style headstock truss rod adjustment, you can't do it from below because the headstock is in the way. But if it's headless or one of those neck-off heel-adjust jobs then you could easily make that mistake.

 

Clockwise and anti-clockwise are certainly more correct and appropriate terms for discussing fastening of nuts and bolts. But no less ambiguous than left and right, depending on context - if for example you are approaching a bolt from behind (doing a reach-around?).

[Crusoe]

17 hours ago, RonC said:

Finally...

[rainbowreality]

When I first started the thing I learnt that helped make sense was to look at the bolt head on so you're looking directly at the front of the bolt face.  Then it's righty tighty and lucy lefty. Worked for me anyway but everyone remembers and learns differently :)

Edited Monday at 11:30 by rainbowreality

[JJMotown]

5 hours ago, Hellzero said:

For your personal record, it used to be my job and I'm glad I'm now retired when I read your poor attempts to pretend you're the most clever person on earth, when you are so stupid.

 

You're now on my ignore list @JJMotown as I can't stand plain idiots unable to recognise their mistakes, and yes it's a plural.

Shame, you're sadly deluded. I'm not pretending to be anything. Your puerile comment above tells me everything your comments (plural) says about you.

 

Your ignorance and stupidly not to recognise YOUR own mistakes and lack of understanding of context, clearly sums you up.

 

The fact you apparently have an ignore list perfectly informs me of the type of person you are. Deluded.

 

 

[lvrossem]

the issue that started this thread is now resolved, but a minor, related one remains: When playing the E string with my middle finger on the third fret, I can't really lift my finger without getting major rattling on the third fret itself. This is the case with all frets on the E string. THe A issue doesn't suffer as severely from it. My guess is that it's just a question of technique? and because the E string is such a big lump of metal? Anyways, the guy in the teaching videos doesn't seem to suffer from it xd 


as for @Hellzero and @JJMotown: it's fine guys, please don't fight about something so trivial

Edited Monday at 19:13 by lvrossem
Add tags

[Stub Mandrel]

Is the rattle just when you lift your finger off or whenever you play the open string?

 

The first could be technique, in which case it will improve as your technique develops, especially damping.

 

If the second the nut could be cut low, still not enough neck relief, action too low especially if your playing style is quite aggressive) or a high fret. Hard to diagnose without the bass in my hands! 

 

You said you checked for high frets with a credit card. Something longer such as a 150 - 300mm rule is better.

 

In the short term raising the action a little if you find the rattle intrusive. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[lvrossem]

40 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Is the rattle just when you lift your finger off or whenever you play the open string?

 

The first could be technique, in which case it will improve as your technique develops, especially damping.

 

If the second the nut could be cut low, still not enough neck relief, action too low especially if your playing style is quite aggressive) or a high fret. Hard to diagnose without the bass in my hands! 

 

You said you checked for high frets with a credit card. Something longer such as a 150 - 300mm rule is better.

 

In the short term raising the action a little if you find the rattle intrusive. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's when I lift my finger off after playing the string. playing an open string no longer rattles. Also, I already did the credit card trick and the frets were even. Guess I'll just see it go away when I get better then

 

[RonC]

The best way is to find yourself a good teacher..

He can actually see what’s happening and help you. Also important so you don’t teach yourself wrong techniques. It’s harder to unlearn wrong techniques (and a waste of time) than to learn the right ones directly.

Edited yesterday at 05:10 by RonC

[tauzero]

On 10/08/2025 at 15:21, Hellzero said:

Urm, urm, if you turn from left to right wherever you are, you are turning clockwise, which means tightening the truss rod, so exactly the opposite, except if it's a left thread, which is quite rare these days.

 

Just to make it even more complicated, you can turn it either clockwise or anticlockwise to go from left to right.

[Hellzero]

3 hours ago, tauzero said:

 

Just to make it even more complicated, you can turn it either clockwise or anticlockwise to go from left to right.

If it's a double action truss rod.

[Geek99]

On 10/08/2025 at 17:42, lvrossem said:

aw shit by now I already followed the diagram and turned clockwise, hope I didn't mess it up and can reverse it without issue

No, nothing will break 

just undo what you did, then re-evaluate And always mark your start point using a sharpie

 

I advise you to talk to @Hellzero or @RonC and work it through slowly, or take their very gracious offer to assist you. 
this is one task that’s actually quite simple to do when you understand it 

 

[Geek99]

On 11/08/2025 at 20:11, lvrossem said:

the issue that started this thread is now resolved, but a minor, related one remains: When playing the E string with my middle finger on the third fret, I can't really lift my finger without getting major rattling on the third fret itself. This is the case with all frets on the E string. THe A issue doesn't suffer as severely from it. My guess is that it's just a question of technique? and because the E string is such a big lump of metal? Anyways, the guy in the teaching videos doesn't seem to suffer from it xd 


as for @Hellzero and @JJMotown: it's fine guys, please don't fight about something so trivial

Back bow or a high fret are common causes 

Or poor technique possibly but maybe make a video and upload it so we can help you better ? 

Edited 4 hours ago by Geek99

[lvrossem]

1 hour ago, Geek99 said:

Back bow or a high fret are common causes 

Or poor technique possibly but maybe make a video and upload it so we can help you better ? 

Here you go, this site only allows short ones

 

P.S. my hair is not greasy, just wet

[Hellzero]

As it's not obvious on the video, where are you fretting your notes?

 

There seems to be the "issue".

[Stub Mandrel]

1 hour ago, lvrossem said:

Here you go, this site only allows short ones

 

P.S. my hair is not greasy, just wet

 

I suggest fretting slightly behind the frets not on them, and trying to lift your fingers off more swiftly and cleanly. The slow release right over the fret is the cause and I can duplicate it here.

 

It's easy to address fretting position, a little further behind the fret will do. Learning a clean release will take a little more effort.

 

A good exercise is to play a series of staccato notes, not too fast, lifting your fretting finger between them but leaving it very gently in contact so it mutes the string. Keep practicing until you can get a series of clearly defined and separate notes.

 

This will help you learn a clean, fast release and also start to develop the prized skill of muting.

 

Good luck!

 

[lvrossem]

The issue persists when I don't put the finger right on the fret but slightly behind it, so I suppose it's the way I let it go. The concern may stem from the fact that beginner courses don't seem to address this

[lvrossem]

The issue persists when I don't put the finger right on the fret but slightly behind it, so I suppose it's the way I let it go. The concern may stem from the fact that beginner courses don't seem to address this