hrnn1234 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 (edited) I'm still considering alternatives before building the basschat1x12™. I'm looking into building a sealed cab because of the much simpler construction (and would also need less tools I don't have). I found this speaker that simulate quite nicely for a sealed enclosure, it's the Selenium 12-PW3. it's about 75€ Here are the specs (sorry about the german words):[list] [*]Belastbarkeit (Nenn/Musik) = 175/400 W [*]Frequenzbereich = 55-5000 Hz [*]Resonanzfrequenz fs = 50 Hz [*]Impedanz R = 8 Ohm [*]Kennschalldruck SPL = 97 dB (2,83V; 1m) [*]Gleichstromwiderstand Re = 6,4 Ohm [*]Kraftfaktor BL = 9,9 N/A [*]Schwingspuleninduktivität L = 1,611 mH [*]Effektive Membranfläche Sd = 510 cm[sup]2[/sup] [*]Bewegte Masse incl. Luftlast mms = 36,9 g [*]Äquivalentvolumen Vas = 97 l [*]Freiluftgesamtgüte Qts = 0,69 (Qms=7,95, Qes=0,75) [*]Durchmesser der Schwingspule = 46 mm [*]Lineare Auslenkung x[sub]lin[/sub] = +/- 9,5 mm [*]Einbaudurchmesser d = 279 mm [*]Aussendurchmesser d = 308 mm [*]Einbautiefe (nicht eingefräst) t = 124 mm [*]Gewicht m = 3,94 kg [/list] I've attached the results I got from WinISD. Yellow is for the Beyma SM212, Green is for The Box 12-280/a (from Thomann) and Pink the Selenium. [attachment=242871:spl.png][attachment=242872:transfer.png] [I can't get the images to show correctly on the forum- here's an imgur link: [url="http://imgur.com/a/gYjC6"]http://imgur.com/a/gYjC6[/url] } All three in a 40 liters box. The selenium gives a -3dB at 70Hz. And has a nice efficiency on paper. Has anybody had any experience with this brand? Cheers! Edited April 12, 2017 by hrnn1234 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balcro Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Hello hrnn1234, I've just checked this speaker out on winISD and it comes as no surprise that it is totally unsuitable for bass guitar use. It's a Bass-Mid P.A unit and only handles the nominal power down to about 200Hz !! xMax is feeble at 1.29mm. Below approx 200Hz, xMax was exceeded with a 50watt input! Others may may come along later to give you advice on similarly priced alternatives that are suitable for a closed box. Balcro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Fitzmaurice Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 [quote name='hrnn1234' timestamp='1491994638' post='3277003'] I'm still considering alternatives before building the basschat1x12™. I'm looking into building a sealed cab because of the much simpler construction (and would also need less tools I don't have). [/quote]I assume that the plans list acceptable drivers and/or TS specs. Use them to find a driver that will work. Also, if you go sealed rather than ported you lose a lot of low end output. That's OK if it's what you're after, not so much if it isn't. You only get one chance to do it right the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Unless you know what you are doing I would stick with the Beyma in the plans. Otherwise your alternatives would be a kappa lite in a fearful design, or bills simplexx cabs which give recommended drivers and the rough spec for other cabs. If the reason you are substituting is to save money... buy a secondhand can! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Starr Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 If you are looking at the Mk 1 on here then I've deliberately designed it to need as few tools as possible. You only really need a screwdriver, an electric drill, something to cut out the speaker hole (jigsaw or router). A hand saw might be useful if you don't get everything cut to size exactly. The only specialist thing you need is a 70mm holesaw for the ports http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bi-metal-holesaw-70mm/80934?kpid=80934&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%2520Listing%2520Ads-_-Sales%2520Tracking-_-sales%2520tracking%2520url&gclid=CMHK3cWCn9MCFcYp0wodJnoJsg&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKeYoceCn9MCFaIx0wodNTwPDg which you can drive using your drill. We've only recommended the Beyma SM212 and the Eminence Beta12A2 for the design and the Kappalite 3012HO if you want a lightweight driver. Other drivers are suitable of course but we haven't tried them and haven't found anything cheaper so far. We're happy to advise anyone if they do come up with an alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrnn1234 Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 (edited) darn! [quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1492000781' post='3277055'] It's a Bass-Mid P.A unit and only handles the nominal power down to about 200Hz !! xMax is feeble at 1.29mm. Below approx 200Hz, [/quote] hey balcro! thanks for your reply. how do you get to the 200Hz limit? I'm just starting reading speaker specs and still have to find my way around all the data. I completely misread the 1.29mm and the 9.5mm. it must have been the 100th speaker I input today. [quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1492002261' post='3277066'] I assume that the plans list acceptable drivers and/or TS specs. Use them to find a driver that will work. Also, if you go sealed rather than ported you lose a lot of low end output. That's OK if it's what you're after, not so much if it isn't. You only get one chance to do it right the first time. [/quote] yes, I'm OK with the reduced lows on the cab. it's completely intentional. this is only about experimenting, really but good thing there's winISD and this forum. [quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1492004198' post='3277087'] The only specialist thing you need is a 70mm holesaw for the ports [url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bi-metal-holesaw-70mm/80934?kpid=80934&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%2520Listing%2520Ads-_-Sales%2520Tracking-_-sales%2520tracking%2520url&gclid=CMHK3cWCn9MCFcYp0wodJnoJsg&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKeYoceCn9MCFaIx0wodNTwPDg"]http://www.screwfix....CFaIx0wodNTwPDg[/url] which you can drive using your drill. [/quote] it's precisely the ports that are holding me back to start building the cab. I've already failed miserably doing small circle cuts when I did my bookshelf speakers (took me a few tries) and I just want to postpone it as much as I can. Edited April 12, 2017 by hrnn1234 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstuk Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 [quote name='hrnn1234' timestamp='1492006122' post='3277115'] darn! hey balcro! thanks for your reply. how do you get to the 200Hz limit? I'm just starting reading speaker specs and still have to find my way around all the data. I completely misread the 1.29mm and the 9.5mm. it must have been the 100th speaker I input today. yes, I'm OK with the reduced lows on the cab. it's completely intentional. this is only about experimenting, really but good thing there's winISD and this forum. it's precisely the ports that are holding me back to start building the cab. I've already failed miserably doing small circle cuts when I did my bookshelf speakers (took me a few tries) and I just want to postpone it as much as I can. [/quote] Maybe get someone to cut the hole for you? A local carpenter/wood worker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Starr Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Honestly it's not a thing to worry about https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Td6m_ukCu0A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 If you read the thread, you will see that I listed a number of alternative drivers which will work in this cabinet. Have a look at post#180. If you want to build the more advanced (and more complicated) version of the design, you will have to use the specified drivers, i.e. the Beyma SM212. I've tried a few different speakers in the cabinet, although none that are readily available. I feel it is important to point out, however, that this is a ported cabinet. You can't just leave out the port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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