T-Bay Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 (edited) I have been toying with the idea of building my own bass for a couple of months now, especially after seeing some on here. A kind donation of an old and very battered EB3 which will be on its way to me tomorrow has solidified the idea. I will cheat a bit and use the neck (of the fretboard at the very least but most likely all of it), tuners, pickups and some of the electrics. I love the sound and look of the SG but the neck dive combined with an arthritic shoulder don't make a good mix. The plan is to try and get as close as possible to the original sound but in a different shape whilst practicising my long dormant woodwork skills. First thing to do,is source some very nice wood. I want a mix of light and dark but also want the weight to be as low as possible. Any suggestions on possible timbers and suppliers would be gratefully received. I have some contacts for oak, lime and yew but they will be green so the timescale is too long for this one. Edited December 28, 2016 by T-Bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 I have a custom bass built of cherry - beautiful grain and colours - may go down the same route again in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 Cherry is up there on my list, I have a small supply of white oak that has been well seasoned so may do a light and dark sandwich. Just need to find the cherry or similar now. Then decide on a good backing wood. I want it to be as light as possible so need to investigate options. I have even had a mad idea about using some carbon fibre honeycomb as a core material as I happen to have a few sheets knocking around as you do but no idea what effect it would have on the sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 I very much look forward to seeing this develop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 Thanks, I wouldn't trust myself to mess about with one I already have but this one has been well battered so I am sure I can do something to improve it and making a body from scratch seems the best way forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikki_Sixx Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 Out of interest, where do you plan on sourcing your timber? Do you order online? I've been tinkering with woodworking (very amateur) this past year and it seems I either need to settle for the garbage on display at Wicks or B&Q, or order in bulk - like, house-building bulk! Looking forward to seeing this, especially with the light-dark wood sandwich! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 [quote name='Rikki_Sixx' timestamp='1482320180' post='3199482'] Out of interest, where do you plan on sourcing your timber? Do you order online? I've been tinkering with woodworking (very amateur) this past year and it seems I either need to settle for the garbage on display at Wicks or B&Q, or order in bulk - like, house-building bulk! Looking forward to seeing this, especially with the light-dark wood sandwich! [/quote] Not sure where to get the timber at the moment. The stuff I have is green and has come from the park next to me when they fell trees and a mate with a big yew tree. I have some nice seasoned white oak that was destined to be super posh flooring but I acquired a few pieces. That will be the centre slice if all goes well. I have looked at Luthier suppliers and the costs are naturally high as its hand selected pieces. We have a good timber yard nearby so I may try them, I have also been searching eBay and there are a few leads. I quite fancy working some walnut or yew and then some sycamore as the base but no idea where to source it! I have built a lot of furniture in the past when we first moved into our house but haven't done a great deal in the last ten years. I have a decent range of tools which helps and have a mate with a planer thicknesser, but not sure if that's up and running. If it is it will make life easier. I am still tempted to try something weird and wonderful to keep the weight down but would like to know more about how it will affect the sound. My guess is that it may dull the sound if I use something like the honeycomb or possibly even cause interference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 The donor was picked up yesterday so is on its way towards me. While I am waiting I am looking at options. I have an EB3 and the Gibson bridge design leaves a little to be desired. I have toyed with the idea of cutting the head off completely but that may be a bit radical this time so wondering about this sort of bridge: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 Still wondering about timbers and now thinking about a darkish base, a 5-10mm light section then a dyed veneer top, something like a flame maple in blue. Or a light base, dark veneer, light sandwich piece then veneer on top. I have some ideas about mounting the controls to make it stand out a bit but more of than later. On a side note, does anyone know how the neck is held on on the EB3? I know it is glued but is it screwed as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 (edited) Oak is quite a heavy wood so I'd use that sparingly. The more usual woods would be mahogany if you want it dark, ash if you want it light with nice grain pattern or maybe alder if you want less prominent grain. Those are probably the easier woods to work with. Edit: The neck is just glued in afaik. It won't be easy to remove without damaging either it or the body. You may need to cut the body away to remove it intact and then tidy it up carefully Edited December 23, 2016 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 23, 2016 Author Share Posted December 23, 2016 [quote name='Norris' timestamp='1482479551' post='3200847'] Oak is quite a heavy wood so I'd use that sparingly. The more usual woods would be mahogany if you want it dark, ash if you want it light with nice grain pattern or maybe alder if you want less prominent grain. Those are probably the easier woods to work with. Edit: The neck is just glued in afaik. It won't be easy to remove without damaging either it or the body. You may need to cut the body away to remove it intact and then tidy it up carefully [/quote] That's the plan, so it's good to know there are aren't any hidden fasteners that make life so much fun on the bandsaw. The body has been in two pieces before and (badly) repaired somis scrap anyway really. Which is why it's a perfect donor, the tricky to make fretboard is ready to go and I have all the fittings and electrics. The oak I have is only thin so wouldn't be the base. Still working through ideas but thinking base wood, dark veneer, then thin layer of ? Then dyed veneer top but that has changed a dozen times in the last couple of days so no doubt will continue to do so and will end up coming down to what I can get at decent money of even free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 The donor bass has arrived! Pics to follow...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 [quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1482571954' post='3201481'] The donor bass has arrived! Pics to follow...... [/quote] Excellent! Mmmmm....although white oak is better than some oaks, I personally would stay well, well clear. In my own experience oak for guitar building varies between 'very challenging' to 'f*****g unusable!' Ref veneers, I can give you some hints and tips along the way on using those if you end up going that direction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 Thanks, that's much appreciated! A lot will come down to what I can get my hands on, the oak would only be used a strip down the centre but already leaning away from that to a dyed veneer. I fancy a really bright blue but that may also change! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 So here are the pics. I am very surprised at the condition. Apart from the one main issue, and bits related to that, it's very very good, almost too good to butcher! From the front at a few feet away it looks fine but when you look closer you can see that the bottom corner has nearly been off. The odd thing is that there is no sign whatsoever of external trauma like a big drop. The split goes across the electronics cavity and the pickup selector feels very strange so I am guessing that the split continues under that and is causing issues. The bridge is also pulling out on one side by about 10mm. Related to the other or not? Who knows. Someone has started to sand back the neck and given up. I will have to decide whether to continue or refinish it in some way. It still plays and whilst it doesn't sound as good as mine, I think that is down to the bridge being so out of kilter! As a starter for a project it's perfect, part of me thinks it's criminal to cut and shut it but that was the plan so that is what needs to happen! With a couple of hours work it would make a decent gigging bass or wall hanger but where's the fun in that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 The pics don't pick up the extent of the cracks, they go across the side and just touch the bevel on the front on both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 I have had a chance to look over the bass a bit more this afternoon. The crack is worse than first thought and extends across the front. The pickup selector felt strange which was because the top layer had splintered behind and it was hanging in on a tiny strip of wood hidden under the plastic disc. I can't work out how it's happened as there is no obvious damage whatsoever that could have caused the crack. The bridge is lifted, connected presumably to the damage but again no idea how. Do what to do with it? I showed my father in law (drummer and bedroom guitarist) and he thought I should attempt a repair, well his exact words were that it would be criminal to cut it apart. So plan now is either- 1, continue with the idea of making a new body and cut out the neck to use. 2, repair the crack and use it as a veneering/ finishing project and redo it all to a nice standard in a weird colour (not black or cherry red, apologies to the purists) I could potentially do a combination of both in that I could make a body AND repair this one then decide what to do when I have done the repair. If it is still weak then I could find another donor neck of use it if the body is worse than expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 I think it boils down to what you prefer. From a feasibility point of view they are both OK options. Yes, you have a major crack but structurally that would be possible to fix...and there are no structurally critical areas impacted as far as I can see. So yes, more than possible to make that physically sound and then veneer over it to get the forward facing aesthetics looking OK. Successfully removing a set neck and building a new body from scratch is a much bigger job, but also feasible.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Plan C: Cut the neck / body parallel to the strings so that you have the equivalent of a 'neck through' . Construct new upper and lower body wings of your desired shape and glue them to the 'through neck'. This method keeps the neck alignment and will be easier than extracting the neck. ( Not seeing the cracks clearly, I am aware this plan might not work). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1482796677' post='3202817'] I think it boils down to what you prefer. From a feasibility point of view they are both OK options. Yes, you have a major crack but structurally that would be possible to fix...and there are no structurally critical areas impacted as far as I can see. So yes, more than possible to make that physically sound and then veneer over it to get the forward facing aesthetics looking OK. Successfully removing a set neck and building a new body from scratch is a much bigger job, but also feasible.... [/quote] Whatever happens I will have fun and learn along the way so all good. I have done a lot of woodwork in the past and know my router from my biscuit cutter but it's always either been furniture or small pieces whittled for fun so this will be something new. [quote name='3below' timestamp='1482827910' post='3202879'] Plan C: Cut the neck / body parallel to the strings so that you have the equivalent of a 'neck through' . Construct new upper and lower body wings of your desired shape and glue them to the 'through neck'. This method keeps the neck alignment and will be easier than extracting the neck. ( Not seeing the cracks clearly, I am aware this plan might not work). [/quote] It could work if I did a backwards triangle shape if that makes sense. The taper wouldn't need to be severe. Or I could just trim the back end by 20-30mm. It is certainly another option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 It's all stripped and apart from the pickup selector switch hole it's not too bad. I am thinking now that I will play about sorting this one as is and look for a donor for a bigger project. I will open up the cracks and repair them using epoxy (I have a big out of date tub at work that is sat there awaiting disposal and has been for several years but will probably just keep getting used for little projects). I will also mess about with the position of the strap at the front and try to get a better balance. And possibly a new bridge, the Gibson design isn't the best after all. Then it will need a lot of work to get the finish up to scratch. If the crack proves terminal it will be back to plan B or was it A? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 Some pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Decided it has to be worth a go at a repair so set to today. I used a router to cut a slot bridging the cracks then made a couple of pieces to fit in there. I then forced glue into the cracks and fitted the pieces. That's all for today as the glue needs a day to go off fully. It will need dressing back and then a light skim of filler in places but should look ok when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bay Posted December 29, 2016 Author Share Posted December 29, 2016 It's all glued up well and feels very strong. Hopefully I will get a bit of time this afternoon and trim it all up then apply a tiny amount of filler. I went down to my pet paint mixing shop this morning but despite the website saying they were open it was all locked up. Looks like I will have to wait until next week for paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 [quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1482936465' post='3203619'] Decided it has to be worth a go at a repair so set to today. I used a router to cut a slot bridging the cracks then made a couple of pieces to fit in there. I then forced glue into the cracks and fitted the pieces. That's all for today as the glue needs a day to go off fully. It will need dressing back and then a light skim of filler in places but should look ok when done. [/quote] That's an excellent way of doing it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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