highwayman Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 [URL=http://s511.photobucket.com/user/rockstarczar/media/DSCF1741_zpssn6shjus.jpg.html][IMG]http://i511.photobucket.com/albums/s359/rockstarczar/DSCF1741_zpssn6shjus.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Please can someone advise me as to the purpose of the adjustable pads on the bridge of my Stingray? Also, being relatively new to playing, I'm wondering what scale of strings to buy for this as it has a string through bridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cana.dan Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 They're there to mute the strings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunburstjazz1967 Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Normal length strings will be fine, as for the mutes, wind the thumb turns out until the foam dampens the string, cut the treble totally, boost the bass fully and play finger style near the fingerboard, amp on full and new underpants at the ready! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudpup Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 and thats a nice Stingray...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTravis Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Before I do any tinkering, having done set ups on Pre-EB stingrays and having owned a classic... Do the 1990's ones with the big bridges all have the thumb wheels but not actually function? Just got a 1994, and the thumbscrews seem a bit reluctant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highwayman Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 Thanks fellas - nickel or stainless strings? I play (so far) with a pick, post punk & 'hair' metal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudpup Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Stainless try Dunlop Super Brights or Ernie Ball Cobalt roundwounds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drTStingray Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 (edited) [quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1463691430' post='3053471'] Before I do any tinkering, having done set ups on Pre-EB stingrays and having owned a classic... Do the 1990's ones with the big bridges all have the thumb wheels but not actually function? Just got a 1994, and the thumbscrews seem a bit reluctant. [/quote] Yes they should work but they can jam especially if over tightened. From around 95-96 the mute plate and mutes are omitted from bridges and the holes in the bridge plugged with hex bolts - these can be taken out and the mute kit purchased as a part and installed. After 96 they have the shortened bridge without mutes. Edited May 19, 2016 by drTStingray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drTStingray Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 (edited) [quote name='highwayman' timestamp='1463692708' post='3053484'] Thanks fellas - nickel or stainless strings? I play (so far) with a pick, post punk & 'hair' metal... [/quote] I've tried a variety of strings over the years on Stingrays - I've concluded the EB slinky pink pack 100 - 45s do it best for me (these are what they are fitted with as new). The 100 E string also evens up response across the strings (especially useful with the powerful EQ and the thump those mutes can create). The cobalt slinky flats are also excellent - I suspect they'd be good with a pick also. Normal long scale strings are fine with the through body stringing of the Classic and pre 80 pre EB - plenty of length. That is a very nice Stingray Classic. Edited May 19, 2016 by drTStingray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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