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In a frenzy, help.


gary mac
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Hope someone can help a stressed out bass chatter.

I've just taken delivery of a pair of Wizard pickups for my Jazz and decided I fancied the challenge of installing them myself.
So, yesterday I purchased a soldering iron and this morning started the procedure. I am starting to wish I hadn't now.

Finally got it all soldered up and put back together, but the neck pickup is not functioning.

Checked it all out again and the problem seems to be with the white cable that I've soldered to the middle lug of the neck pot. Just can't seem to get it right.

If I attach the white cable to the lug with the red cables (That feed off to the bridge pot) it works but with no control to the volume.

Hope I have explained myself clearly, any help would be hugely appreciated.


Cheers, all the best Gary.

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[quote name='gary mac' post='258867' date='Aug 9 2008, 03:42 PM']Hope someone can help a stressed out bass chatter.

I've just taken delivery of a pair of Wizard pickups for my Jazz and decided I fancied the challenge of installing them myself.
So, yesterday I purchased a soldering iron and this morning started the procedure. I am starting to wish I hadn't now.

Finally got it all soldered up and put back together, but the neck pickup is not functioning.

Checked it all out again and the problem seems to be with the white cable that I've soldered to the middle lug of the neck pot. Just can't seem to get it right.

If I attach the white cable to the lug with the red cables (That feed off to the bridge pot) it works but with no control to the volume.

Hope I have explained myself clearly, any help would be hugely appreciated.


Cheers, all the best Gary.[/quote]
Sorry to hear that Gary!

I know the feeling - happened to me reinstalling the original p/ups in my Fender Jazz 5 in January.. I am not able to help you I'm afraid as I'm pretty useless at this sort of stuff. But hopefully OBBM, The Burpster or some of the other very clued-up guys will be along soon to advise..

Good luck with it,

Nik

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are you sure the pot isn't damaged?

if it works when the wires bypass the pot, but not when they're connected to it, then it's probably that. the pots can be damaged sometimes by excessive heat if you're not careful. i've been doing this stuff for years and i still managed this about 6 months back with a g**tar i was repairing. happens to the best of us. :huh:


luckily it's a cheap fix :)

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[quote name='gary mac' post='258867' date='Aug 9 2008, 03:42 PM']Hope someone can help a stressed out bass chatter.

I've just taken delivery of a pair of Wizard pickups for my Jazz and decided I fancied the challenge of installing them myself.
So, yesterday I purchased a soldering iron and this morning started the procedure. I am starting to wish I hadn't now.

Finally got it all soldered up and put back together, but the neck pickup is not functioning.

Checked it all out again and the problem seems to be with the white cable that I've soldered to the middle lug of the neck pot. Just can't seem to get it right.

If I attach the white cable to the lug with the red cables (That feed off to the bridge pot) it works but with no control to the volume.

Hope I have explained myself clearly, any help would be hugely appreciated.


Cheers, all the best Gary.[/quote]

Without seeing a proper diagram it's hard to be specific (I don't know what the "white wire" does). However, a faulty pot is a possibility but so is the remaining terminal on the pot not being connected properly. I would think it should be connected to ground. Usually that means connected to the case of the pot and then the case of the other pot(s) and all sorts of other stuff. A cheap meter is almost as important as a soldering iron - without that you can't check anything - you're just guessing which isn't much use.

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[quote name='thepurpleblob' post='259012' date='Aug 9 2008, 08:40 PM']Without seeing a proper diagram it's hard to be specific (I don't know what the "white wire" does). However, a faulty pot is a possibility but so is the remaining terminal on the pot not being connected properly. I would think it should be connected to ground. Usually that means connected to the case of the pot and then the case of the other pot(s) and all sorts of other stuff. A cheap meter is almost as important as a soldering iron - without that you can't check anything - you're just guessing which isn't much use.[/quote]


good point. although even if the other side of the pot wasn't connected to ground, there should still be a signal through the pot.


either way, you can get a decent meter from maplin for about 8 pounds or so, and it's one of those things that's just really useful to have around anyways. if you can get one, or borrow one, etc. then that'd be the place to start.

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[quote name='escholl' post='259022' date='Aug 9 2008, 08:50 PM']good point. although even if the other side of the pot wasn't connected to ground, there should still be a signal through the pot.


either way, you can get a decent meter from maplin for about 8 pounds or so, and it's one of those things that's just really useful to have around anyways. if you can get one, or borrow one, etc. then that'd be the place to start.[/quote]

True enough, it just strikes me that you'd have to go some to cook a pot as they have quite a bit of thermal mass. But.......

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[quote name='thepurpleblob' post='259026' date='Aug 9 2008, 08:56 PM']True enough, it just strikes me that you'd have to go some to cook a pot as they have quite a bit of thermal mass. But.......[/quote]

*shrug*

the graphite tracks are quite thin where they connect to the tabs. maybe it's just me who's done it, idk, was in a rush that day. :blush: :)

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[quote name='escholl' post='259040' date='Aug 9 2008, 09:25 PM']*shrug*

the graphite tracks are quite thin where they connect to the tabs. maybe it's just me who's done it, idk, was in a rush that day. :blush: :)[/quote]

Of course you carefully scraped the tags clean before you tried soldering to them!! :huh:

I've done *much* more stupid things. One day I'll tell you how I replaced an expensive surface mount processor in a very expensive DVD player upside down :huh:

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[quote name='thepurpleblob' post='259043' date='Aug 9 2008, 09:34 PM']Of course you carefully scraped the tags clean before you tried soldering to them!! :)

I've done *much* more stupid things. One day I'll tell you how I replaced an expensive surface mount processor in a very expensive DVD player upside down :huh:[/quote]

hehe of course! :huh:

a few weeks ago i burned a board quite badly, thinking i had the heat gun attachment on when really, it was the blowtorch...doh! :huh:

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thanks for all the replies chaps. Guess I should buy a meter before trying anything else, or maybe just get a grown up to fix it for me.
I was really hoping to carry out this work myself for the satisfaction, but I'm finding it a struggle. Its hard to hold the soldering iron, the solder, the wire and the all important magnifying glass!

At risk of making myself look even more of a doughnut brain, could it be the wrong type of solder? The one I'm using is 5 core solder.

Thanks again.

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[quote name='gary mac' post='259128' date='Aug 10 2008, 08:41 AM']thanks for all the replies chaps. Guess I should buy a meter before trying anything else, or maybe just get a grown up to fix it for me.
I was really hoping to carry out this work myself for the satisfaction, but I'm finding it a struggle. Its hard to hold the soldering iron, the solder, the wire and the all important magnifying glass!

At risk of making myself look even more of a doughnut brain, could it be the wrong type of solder? The one I'm using is 5 core solder.

Thanks again.[/quote]

You'd probably have trouble buying the wrong kind of solder unless you where in a plumbers merchant!!

As you've noticed it's tricky with only two hands. The best thing is to always try and get a good mechanical connection before you solder - put the wire through the hole and/or twist. At a push - and only when there's no other way - put a blob of solder on the thing to solder, do the same on the wire (it's called tinning) then (without the solder wire) heat the two together. It's a good way to get dry joints so don't make it a habit. Another tip, always heat untill you can see the solder go liquid and flow into the joint and remove the heat after the solder. Not getting enough heat in is a bad thing too. Make sure your soldering iron tip is clean and well tinned and make sure everything is clean.

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[quote name='BigRedX' post='259030' date='Aug 9 2008, 08:59 PM']Any chance of taking and posting a good clear photo of the wiring?

Might be able to spot if you've done something obviously wrong.[/quote]


+1,

get a pic on here bud and we'l sort it for you....

Sounds like you've either miss read your wiring diagram or got a dry joint..... (multicore or 5 as you put it should be fine if you done overheat it!)

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Don't you just hate it, when what you think will be a simple job turns out to be such a pain.

Trouble with camera now, so can't put up a photo :)

Earlier this morning I recalled that my father in law had given me a meter, so after a bit of frenzied searching I found it. :huh:

I don't really know how to interpret the readings. But, there is no signal to the centre lug on the pot for the neck pup. There is a reading on all the other lugs and the case of the pot. and also on the bridge pot.

So, I am assuming that somehow I've damaged the pot during the soldering process.

I guess the next question is: best place to get a new neck pot or whole new control panel?

The bass is a Squier Modified Jazz and I promise not to do any more mods.

Thanks again for all the help so far, must say I feel a total numpty.

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one of [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250237798631"]these[/url]. it says "strat" but a there's no difference.


don't give up though, there is a bit of a learning curve, but being able to work on your own instrument is one of the most rewarding things you can learn to do! :)

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Thanks escholl.

Yes I do want to stick with it and hopefully it will be rewarding.

It looks like the lugs on the strat pots are facing downwards as opposed to mine which are facing upwards, if you know what I mean. Is it just a case of bending them up? Guess this is part of the learning curve that you mention, making myself look like a total dipstick.

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GM,

Just read your post again..... if this is a std wiring you shouldnt have any wires connecting to that center tab other than the pup output....

are you rewiring the whole lot or did you change some more wires while fitting the pups? if it was a direct 1 for replacement I find it hard to understand how you got to where you are now.....

Below is an SD diagram for a std J - V/V/T ... see if that helps....

[url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=std_jazz_bass"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...c=std_jazz_bass[/url]

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Burpster, thanks for the reply, I have had a look at the wiring diagram. The only difference I can see on my bass is that the black leads from the pups are both soldered on to the control for the neck volume. That is how it was originally, so I've just done the same.

Yes, I have just soldered the white lead to the centre tab. When I now test with a metre there is no reading to that centre tab, so I guess I must have damaged it during the soldering process.

Dont know whether to get a replacement control, but given that will entail additional soldering and the risk of damaging the new one, maybe I should get someone else to do it for me.

Thanks again, as always on this forum the level of help and advice has been great.

All the best Gary.

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