Clarky Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 (edited) Hi all. just bought a new tort scratchplate for my P bass and carefully took off the old black one (see Avatar picture). As you all know the scratchplate is attached to the wiring underneath for the tone and volume knobs and the wires that go to the jack plug. Anyway, due to what appears to be a half-hearted soldering job the single wire that runs through to the bridge (I assume for grounding purposes) de-attached itself in the control cavity and is hanging loose. My questions are: 1. Is this soldered to the jack plug normally? 2. Can it be re-attached any other way than soldering (as I do not know how to solder and don't have the equipment)? If 2 is a 'no' I guess its a trip to a luthier Many thanks in advance Clarky Edited June 25, 2008 by Clarky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamster Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 (edited) It's attached to earth, the back of the tone pot IIRC, but there's no reason why you can't attach it to the ground on your jack - all the earth points are linked. As for attaching it - IMHO soldering is the only way to go. You [i]could [/i]try to secure it between the pot and foil backed scratchplate but that would be a real bodge job repair. Where in London are you? - there might very well be a fellow basschatter near you with a soldering iron. Apart from that, soldering is very easy - have a go! Hamster Edited June 25, 2008 by Hamster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubs Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 In my experience and if I remember correctly (acronyms would have looked ridiculous there :wacko:), the grounding to at least 4 of my basses has gone from the back of one of the tone or volume pots. I’ve never seen grounding going from the jack input before, but theoretically it should work from the jack anyway. [attachment=10017:thumb_example.JPG] If you look at the back of the tone pot I’ve circled you can see the grounding wire running from the tone pot through to the bridge in my Warwick Thumb. This is the only grounding solution I’ve come across (ie – not from the jack). If it’s come loose then it would literally be a 2 min job to solder it back on (and 1min 50 seconds of that would be waiting for the soldering iron to heat up ). Seeing as you don’t have an iron I would suggest you buy one and a small reel of solder and have a go yourself. Something like this can be very easily re-done if you manage to cock it up completely and it’s also likely to be much cheaper than getting a ‘pro’ to do it because you can pick up a soldering iron and a bit of solder for under a tenner from maplins, then you’ve obviously got the gear to do some soldering again in the future. If you’re not confident with soldering then have a look at a few online guides, but there’s really nothing to it. I’d definitely suggest you give it a go yourself though rather than paying someone else to do a very simple job. Every muso should own a soldering iron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 [quote name='Hamster' post='226415' date='Jun 25 2008, 08:20 AM']It's attached to earth, the back of the tone pot IIRC, but there's no reason why you can't attach it to the ground on your jack - all the earth points are linked. As for attaching it - IMHO soldering is the only way to go. You [i]could [/i]try to secure it between the pot and foil backed scratchplate but that would be a real bodge job repair. Where in London are you? - there might very well be a fellow basschatter near you with a soldering iron. Apart from that, soldering is very easy - have a go! Hamster[/quote] Thanks Hamster, thought soldering would be needed. Damn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 [quote name='benwhiteuk' post='226421' date='Jun 25 2008, 08:28 AM']In my experience and if I remember correctly (acronyms would have looked ridiculous there :wacko:), the grounding to at least 4 of my basses has gone from the back of one of the tone or volume pots. I’ve never seen grounding going from the jack input before, but theoretically it should work from the jack anyway. [attachment=10017:thumb_example.JPG] If you look at the back of the tone pot I’ve circled you can see the grounding wire running from the tone pot through to the bridge in my Warwick Thumb. This is the only grounding solution I’ve come across (ie – not from the jack). If it’s come loose then it would literally be a 2 min job to solder it back on (and 1min 50 seconds of that would be waiting for the soldering iron to heat up ). Seeing as you don’t have an iron I would suggest you buy one and a small reel of solder and have a go yourself. Something like this can be very easily re-done if you manage to cock it up completely and it’s also likely to be much cheaper than getting a ‘pro’ to do it because you can pick up a soldering iron and a bit of solder for under a tenner from maplins, then you’ve obviously got the gear to do some soldering again in the future. If you’re not confident with soldering then have a look at a few online guides, but there’s really nothing to it. I’d definitely suggest you give it a go yourself though rather than paying someone else to do a very simple job. Every muso should own a soldering iron [/quote] Thx BenWhiteUK from your and Hamster's reply it looks like buying a soldering iron is the way to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burpster Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 On my P and other P bass alikies that I've played with (my preferance is for side exitting jacks) I wire straight form the jack to the bridge as its the shortest piece of wire and its permanent. Soldering simple processes is not rocket science and a cheap soldering iron and solder is a shed load cheaper than a trip to your local 'shop. There is plenty of advice already on this section (search for soldering) and I believe on a thread somwhere that there was a link to a you-tube lesson in simple soldering for complete noobs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 Beginners soldering kit from Maplins duly ordered! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGit Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 (edited) [quote name='The Burpster' post='226433' date='Jun 25 2008, 08:43 AM']On my P and other P bass alikies that I've played with (my preferance is for side exitting jacks) I wire straight form the jack to the bridge as its the shortest piece of wire and its permanent. Soldering simple processes is not rocket science and a cheap soldering iron and solder is a shed load cheaper than a trip to your local 'shop. There is plenty of advice already on this section (search for soldering) and I believe on a thread somwhere that there was a link to a you-tube lesson in simple soldering for complete noobs![/quote] I think that was from my cry for help on soldering .. Anyway yes the bridge earthing wire traditionally goes to the back of a pot. Re soldering I'd suggest getting the Maplins Gas soldering iron. It's transformed my soldering - I used to really hate it and fail and make a huge mess and then buy more pots or pay someone to sort it out. Now it holds no fear for me. £25 well spent... and cheaper than 10 mins of a luthier's time. Actually they are in their current sale at £20 so that's even better... [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=34956&C=Maplin&U=SearchTop&T=gas%20soldering&doy=25m6"]Maplins Gas soldering iron in the sale £20[/url] Edited June 25, 2008 by OldGit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubs Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 [quote name='OldGit' post='226488' date='Jun 25 2008, 09:57 AM']£25 well spent... and cheaper than 10 mins of a luthier's time. Actually they are in their current sale at £20 so that's even better... [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=34956&C=Maplin&U=SearchTop&T=gas%20soldering&doy=25m6"]Maplins Gas soldering iron in the sale £20[/url][/quote] going a bit off topic - how long does the gas last and how much does it cost to refill it? Wireless soldering is very appealing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGit Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 [quote name='benwhiteuk' post='226507' date='Jun 25 2008, 10:19 AM']going a bit off topic - how long does the gas last and how much does it cost to refill it? Wireless soldering is very appealing [/quote] It's economical 'cos you only have the iron "on" when you need it so it's not using gas whilst you're arranging things. It also re-lights itself once it's up to heat so that is a one handed operation A butane tin's about £5 and seems to last for ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.Dave Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 For what it's worth. On my old P , I cut the earth lead from the bridge just as it enters the control cavity and refixed it with one of those small plastic screw connecty jobs. Makes it easier to remove the whole scratchplate assembly and take it away from the body for cleaning/repair/replacements whatever. Also in that earth path is a capacitor and resistor (values long forgotten) that I read about as a tip in Beat Instrumental (showing my age tthere). Theory is they'll blow should any current pass to earth leaving me sunburnt but not fried. Happily I've never had chance to test it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjbass Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 I think maplins only sell lead free solder. I personally found it a pain in the arse to use - it was like pushing mercury around. I found some flux cored 60/40 lead solder from Robert Dyers and it was [u]so[/u] much easier. just don't eat it apparently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubs Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 [quote name='pjbass' post='226639' date='Jun 25 2008, 12:53 PM']I think maplins only sell lead free solder. I personally found it a pain in the arse to use - it was like pushing mercury around. I found some flux cored 60/40 lead solder from Robert Dyers and it was [u]so[/u] much easier. just don't eat it apparently [/quote] yeah I bought some lead-free stuff and it was shyte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRedX Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Soldering should be a skill that every bassist with ambitions to do more than just play and occasionally change the strings should acquire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Burpster Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 [quote name='OldGit' post='226521' date='Jun 25 2008, 10:34 AM']It's economical 'cos you only have the iron "on" when you need it so it's not using gas whilst you're arranging things. It also re-lights itself once it's up to heat so that is a one handed operation A butane tin's about £5 and seems to last for ages.[/quote] +1 I have a serious gas iron.... [url="http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=68224&group_ID=12178&store=uk&dir=catalog"]http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog[/url] And I have had the same 250ml butane refill tin for 3 yrs. VERY very economical to run for its power! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 Thanks for all advice - got beginners soldering kit from Maplins today and - blimey - it worked a treat. Reattached earth wire from bridge to tone pot in a couple of minutes. No problem with lead-free solder either. Smelly business mind you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 Hi all, want to change pickup on my Fender P and bought a cool retro creme Dimarzio DP122. I need to desolder existing pickup first but don't have desoldering kit (braid or suction device). Question is, can I melt the existing solder, pull out the current wires and then put the new wires into the existing solder 'blob' (re-melted with soldering iron) or is this a recipe for disaster? Trip to Maplins needed (drat) if my dodgy fix idea is a no-go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamster Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 [quote name='Clarky' post='247103' date='Jul 24 2008, 06:17 PM']Hi all, want to change pickup on my Fender P and bought a cool retro creme Dimarzio DP122. I need to desolder existing pickup first but don't have desoldering kit (braid or suction device). Question is, can I melt the existing solder, pull out the current wires and then put the new wires into the existing solder 'blob' (re-melted with soldering iron) or is this a recipe for disaster? Trip to Maplins needed (drat) if my dodgy fix idea is a no-go[/quote] I've done loads of electrical swap-outs like that and never had a problem - go for it. Hamster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 [quote name='Hamster' post='247113' date='Jul 24 2008, 06:25 PM']I've done loads of electrical swap-outs like that and never had a problem - go for it. Hamster[/quote] cool - just what I wanted to hear! thx Hamster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escholl Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 [quote name='Dr.Dave' post='226623' date='Jun 25 2008, 12:36 PM']Also in that earth path is a capacitor and resistor (values long forgotten) that I read about as a tip in Beat Instrumental (showing my age tthere). Theory is they'll blow should any current pass to earth leaving me sunburnt but not fried. Happily I've never had chance to test it.[/quote] this is a lot more important than people realize. A 100 nF or 220 nF 500V cap is all that's needed, and will serve to both block DC current or limit AC current if it all goes wrong. It will definitely get your attention, but it will also save your life. [quote name='Clarky' post='247103' date='Jul 24 2008, 06:17 PM']Hi all, want to change pickup on my Fender P and bought a cool retro creme Dimarzio DP122. I need to desolder existing pickup first but don't have desoldering kit (braid or suction device). Question is, can I melt the existing solder, pull out the current wires and then put the new wires into the existing solder 'blob' (re-melted with soldering iron) or is this a recipe for disaster? Trip to Maplins needed (drat) if my dodgy fix idea is a no-go[/quote] if you tin the leads of the new pickup (if they aren't done already) it will make your life a lot easier when doing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted July 25, 2008 Author Share Posted July 25, 2008 [quote name='escholl' post='247921' date='Jul 25 2008, 04:12 PM']this is a lot more important than people realize. A 100 nF or 220 nF 500V cap is all that's needed, and will serve to both block DC current or limit AC current if it all goes wrong. It will definitely get your attention, but it will also save your life. if you tin the leads of the new pickup (if they aren't done already) it will make your life a lot easier when doing that.[/quote] Hi there - I tried my bodge experiment last night and it worked! That is, until the next time I plug my bass in and it creates an electric vortex that sets off a nuclear fission reaction that destroys the universe and gives me a nasty electric shock at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escholl Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 [quote name='Clarky' post='247923' date='Jul 25 2008, 04:15 PM']Hi there - I tried my bodge experiment last night and it worked! That is, until the next time I plug my bass in and it creates an electric vortex that sets off a nuclear fission reaction that destroys the universe and gives me a nasty electric shock at the same time [/quote] haha glad to hear it worked. the cap is just one of those safety things for people as paranoid as me, and are easily frighted by electric vortexes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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