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Rickenbacker 4003 strap button keeps working loose


Skinnyman
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I have a 2010 Ric 4003 which has the standard factory-fitted Schaller straplocks. The one on the horn keeps working loose - I need to tighten it mid-gig after every third song or so and am now so paranoid about it that I check it constantly whenever I can spare a hand.

I've tried putting some glue on the thread but that's made no difference and I've retightened it as much as I dare but the problem keeps recurring. I don't want to overtighten in case I overdo it and split the wood.

I've also tried the old "matchstick-in-the-hole-to-act-as-filler" trick but that's done nothing either.

I think the problem is that the strap comes out from the strap lock at an angle to go over my shoulder and that effectively causes the strap half of the locking system to "grip" the button part.

Possibly....

Anyway, anyone else had the same issues?

Any suggestions?

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You could try the Warwick style strap locks. instead of having cup on the strap, there's a prong that fits into a hole in the end of the button that sits in the bass.

I used to find that my Schaller locks would rotate (on the strap), so that they ended upside down. They never came off the bass, but felt vulnerable, as the cup wasn't underneath the button on the bass, if you can see what I mean.

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[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1362045040' post='1994813']
+1 hardwood dowel, glue it in. I had the same issue - straplocks or not. In the end I araldited the screw in there, it's been ok for the last 5 years.[/quote]

Very much this; though the hole will have to be drilled out with a wood-bit before doing this to be mega-secure, nice neat hole = lots of gluing contact area.
If doing that have the drill going in reverse to prevent splitting.

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[quote name='Skinnyman' timestamp='1362080675' post='1995562']
I tried cocktail sticks and no joy. The dowel solution seems like the best with Araldite applied to the screw when it's inserted. I think I'll drill a little pilot hole for the screw though just to try and avoid any splits.

Thanks all!
[/quote]

You absolutely must drill a pilot hole first. Without it you could split the wood or strip the head off the screw when you attempt to drive it in.

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HOLD ON! Is it the strap bolt, or the sleeve in the wood that is loose? On current production RIC basses, the strap bolt is screwed into a sleeve, and can be unscrewed so it can be withdrawn and strap locks fitted. If it is just the bolt, contact RIC customer service, tell them the strap bolt is loose, and see if they will exchange with you. If it is the sleeve that is loose in the wood, then you do have a much more significant issue, which a good luthier will need to look at to determine the appropriate remedy or repair.

Edited by iiipopes
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[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1362526584' post='2000981']
HOLD ON! Is it the strap bolt, or the sleeve in the wood that is loose? On current production RIC basses, the strap bolt is screwed into a sleeve, and can be unscrewed so it can be withdrawn and strap locks fitted. If it is just the bolt, contact RIC customer service, tell them the strap bolt is loose, and see if they will exchange with you. If it is the sleeve that is loose in the wood, then you do have a much more significant issue, which a good luthier will need to look at to determine the appropriate remedy or repair.
[/quote]
It's definitely the screw that's loose(bit like me...). Araldite has sorted it - thanks for the input guys!

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