rwillett

In which case I'm a complete wimp. I recall it being a lot heavier

Ah so the word "manageable" actually means "somebody else manages it" 🤣 it was very heavy as I recall 35+kg? It sounded great though. I'd love to do a blind test with that and a decent Class D amp. You may already have done this...

Is that the head you brought to the NW Bass Bash last year? If so, we clearly we have a different opinion on the word "manageable"...

I knew about the resistor as @neepheid had already commented on it in another forum. That's why I brought a spare one I'll update people when the Goldwoods turn up. Rob

I've two of the 4 Ohm 20W resistors. One is a spare and I've tested the one in-situ. A kind basschatter has sent me a few Goldwood GT-1016's to use. Once they arrive I'll test and see how they work and compare and contrast. Slowly getting there. Rob

Made significant progress in the last two days. The bridge is now ready, the neck is ready and the neck fits and by some mathematical miracle. the bridge is the right length from the 12th fret. Wonders will never cease. This is just to check for fitting and access. So the white panels are where the three way switch and the V/V/T/T pots and 1/4" socket will fit. They are in white so I could see if I liked the colour scheme. The body of the guitar is partly filled and finished, I'm testing it as I go along. Its kinda Rickenbacker six string (ish) on a bad day. Lots to do but it's getting there. I've also done the drill guide. This is used to put all the aluminium bits together. The two bits of aluminium will fit in the above guide and positions all the holes. Some are 5.25mm, some are 2.5mm and some are 3.5mm. I do not trust myself to remember the order.

Since the tweeters are from around 4khz (from memory) surely there should be more sound and volume. I'll record it tomorrow to show the volume difference

Definitely low volume. When connected to the main speaker, significantly larger volume.

Happy to post it for you to try it out.

After a lot of stroking of the chin, I decided to try and test the tweeters using: A 9V battery A small amplifier Battery test I disconnected the tweeter input legs from the chock blocs and put a 9V across them. I could hear a distinct click as I put power on them. Nothing more. I am assuming that indicates they are probably working. Small amplifier I <ahem> borrowed my daughters little amp, looks like this. Then realised I had nothing that that had a phone input to drive the amplifier. So I 'borrowed' my youngest daughters rather elderly iPad which actually has a headphone socket on it. My iPhone and iPad doesn't have a headphone out. Connected a set of speaker wires to one side, plugged the iPad in and then realised my youngest is a massive Taylor Swift fan and that was all she had. <sigh> I disconnected the Eminence speaker and connected the wires so it went to all of the four tweeter array. I could hear Taylor Swift. However the music sounded very tinny, quite poor quality and very quiet. That is not a passive-aggressive comment on Taylor Swift. I'm not sure what it should sound like through four tweeters. I would have thought better than this though. I then connected the Eminence speaker up and tried again and it sounded fine. So I'm still unsure if I have a tweeter problem or not. Just the tweeters sounded rubbish to me. I have no idea if the tweeters would sound reasonable, it sounded like a 1950's 1" speaker in a crap transistor radio. Any comments welcomed. Thanks Rob

I'm not 100% physically. The infection took a lot out of me but I;m slowly building strength back up. It'll be a few more weeks before I'm 100% physically. Thanks Rob

It's been a few weeks since I started this. Sadly I was hospitalised after a nose op went wrong and I enjoyed the hospitality of Bradford Royal Infirmary for a while. This has not been forgotten though. The design has now been finalised and printed up. Here's some earlier designs. This was rejected as I wanted the control panel area to be a panel to and bottom. This is the latest design, with all four pieces glued in. The frame is very stiff and the glue is as strong as the filament so twisting it to breaking point could be anywhere on the frame, not at the joints. The next steps are lightly sanding down the rough areas. This is printed at 0.2mm height and the fastest speed the Prusa can do. I have sacrificed a little quality for speed, but as the frame will be sanded, filled, sanded, covered,sanded primed, sanded, painted, lightly sanded and then finally multiple coats of a finish, the reduction in quality will not make any difference. I know this because I've tested it. I am aiming to have zero printing lines visible so its indistinguishable from any other type of non FDM finish. It does have the tummy cut at the top but I'll show that later. I'm also trying to do the same design for a bass as well Thanks Rob

That's what worries me....

It's a bit bad when I'm considered the normal, sane one...

Via North Yorkshire....

What! Have you discussed this with the powers that be? I'm fairly certain that the laws of physics still hold true where I live regarding space and time. Rob

Those tweeter specs are helpful, thank you. My problem is that nobody in Europe appears to stock the Goldwood. GT-1016. There is this thread from 2007 (!) on alternatives https://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11162 The following are supposed to be alternatives, but I can't find anyone who can confirm they are good alternatives and work. Pulse PLS00306 <-- Can't find anywhere near to me Monacor MPT-016 <-- Available at Thomann (https://www.thomann.co.uk/monacor_mpt_016.htm) Quite expensive each. GRS PZ1016 NPeople have claimed that these are a replacement and the model number indicates at least a relationship to the Goldwood but are 4Ohm as opposed to 8Ohm, noit sure if this is an issue TBH. Available at https://www.soundimports.eu/en/grs-pz1016.html I have been offered something from a kind basschatter so will enquire there first. Also it may well be that the issue with all of this is a simple wiring issue and a fault finding check may find the issue. My issue is still that I'm unclear on how to fault find a piezo speakers. Thanks Rob

@Hellzero The thread about the crossover, oddly enough from @neepheid, is here https://www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26505 I believe that the view from Bill was that nothing else is needed for his design apart from the resistor. I'm no expert here, hence this thread Certainly the box as it came to me had nothing more complicated than a square resistor as shown in the picture. It may well be that it should have had something more complicated in place and has never worked, but given the (high) quality of the build. I suspect it has worked properly in the past. I have nothing to back this up, but would love to get this small cab working to its full potential. @bertbass Thanks for this. That phrase "the resistor is there to prevent ultrasonic oscillations" rings a bell as I have read that in Bills forum as I've been investigating this further. I appreciate all the help, I'll try and work out what to do next. Thanks Rob

Terry That is a really nice and as @Hellzero has said, very generous, offer. I'll be in touch. Really appreciate this Thank you.

I was kindly given a bass cab, which appears to be an Omni 10.5. This looks a well made cabinet with four piezo electric tweeters and a decent speaker. There is a toggle switch on the back which looks like it switches the four tweeters in and out. Playing through the cabinet with a Warwick Gnome V2 works well and there are no issues with the main speaker. However toggling the switch appears to make no impact on the sound. I do not hear any higher notes or any change in sound quality. I've tested the toggle switch and that works fine. Opening the speaker up, and looking at the toggle switch, I can see a simple 'crossover' resistor which according to my multimeter measures the right value. I also note that when I got the cabinet a tweeter cable was disconnected and I *think* I put it back in the right place. I'm trying to work out if there is a wiring mistake somewhere OR one or more tweeters isn't working. The tweeters are buried in the cabinet amongst all the foam but it appears to me before I trace the wiring that they are in series and parallel, I'm guessing that this is to present either 8 Ohms or 4 ohms to the cabinet. The tweeters have no information on them apart from a sticker saying 0807. Goolge doesn't help here. I'm aware that piezo electric speakers cannot be easily measured by the ohm rating but should be measured by their capacitance OR by putting a small battery across the tweeter terminals and listening for a click OR by connecting them to a low powered amplifier and seeing if they work. I happen to have a dedicated capacitance meter but no matter which tweeter I measure I get a reading of 0.641 when set to the 2uF range on the meter. I'm way out of my depth here and and contemplating just junking the four tweeters and trying to get four other tweeters that might work. However I have no idea what the current speakers are and so I may be making things worse. I have no issues soldering any new tweeters, but I can easily see myself being back where I started from and absolutely no further forward and £30-£40 down and a lot more frustrated. I don't know if the tweeters are 4 ohm or 8 ohm or could be something else and I certainly don't want to blow up up Gnome. One thing that occurs to me is to simply find the two wires that feed the tweeter array and put a small (and cheap) amp onto them to see if it makes a sound. However not sure if a small little amp is the right approach. Any advice on what the next steps should be is greatly welcomed. Thanks Rob

Yes

No feedback. I've seen postage errors loads of times to be honest. The lack of feedback is the issue for me. Half price isn't bad. Realistically priced is one way or looking at it. The AI slop is crap as normal

Hi I'm about to order 4 piezeo speakers for an Omni 10.5 kindly donated by @neepheid (who apparently is searching for capacitors as I write this). I believe the originals were Goldwood 1016's but these seem to be somewhat more difficult to find than an honest politician. Recommendation for a replacement looks like the GRS PZ1016 https://www.soundimports.eu/en/grs-pz1016.html OR the Monacor MPT-06 https://www.thomann.co.uk/monacor_mpt_016.htm Both have high shipping costs relative to the costs of components, though Thomanns tweeter is nearly 3x the price of the GRS one. Is anybody interested in a lareger order OR does anybody have 4 x Goldwood 1016;s OR Monacor MPT-06 OR GRS PZ1016 tweeters they want to sell and move on,. Thanks Rob

Welcome. Nobody has too much gear. You just haven't yet found a use for it all 😊 Rob