Phil Starr

I was hoping for something from this century but I'm no better. Humble Pie Rockin' the Fillmore Humble Pie - Performance: Rockin' the Fillmore (full album) (VINYL) - YouTube Doors Absolutely Live Who Do You Love (Live) - YouTube Benny Goodman Carnegie Hall 1938 Sing Sing Sing - Carnegie Hall 1938 - YouTube That last has a claim to be the first ever concert of popular music, depends how you define concert of course but if so it was good to kick it all off with a good one. Love the drums.

Welcome to Basschat there are a number of designs we've shared on here, the 110Tin the thread above Richard linked you to and there is also a 12" cab and a 112T. The cab above would also work without a tweeter and crossover and you could also add those later if you preferred. The cab will also work with a range of other drivers and if any tweaks are needed we can do them for you.

thanks for posting this @TheGreek we don't have many levers to pull so it might be interesting to hear what they are.

In the F112you have one of the best bass speakers around. We've done shootouts of 12's including one of BC's favourite contenders and it's still the standard by which we'd judge other cabs. I don't think anyone is being funny about your cab, objectively it is one of the best cabs around. There are advantages of having multiple drivers but PJB have sacrificed at least one by putting them side by side. I suspect they are just meeting demand for a bigger version from people who like the sound of their 7's, nothing wrong with that of course. If you want a more coloured sound or just have an itch you need to scratch then I'd try before you buy.

Are you just speculating about this or thinking of a purchase? If you fancy one of these cabs then they are different beasts all together. The Fearless is really a frfr speaker with great drivers and a decent crossover. It'll give you a really honest sound up to significantly High levels. The PJB is an unusual design which makes little sense in purely theoretical terms (why 7's, why put them side by side) but PJB make well loved speakers so just because they are quirky it doesn't mean they sound bad. The only way to find out is to try them. As you've pointed out cone area is a factor but only one. If you want some discussion of the design implications of multiple small drivers then that is a different issue

Just a quick update. My band did a proper pub gig! The First in nearly two years. @stevie was kind enough to come along, so we had to give the 110T a run out. In the second set we swapped to try his new super speaker. So the pub was atypical British pub not ideal for live music, originally two bars knocked into a single space. U shaped with is jammed into a tight space in the corner. There were maybe 50 people there and it wasn't rammed so a decent size but not huge. We had no PA support for the bass. For practical reasons the bass cab was jammed into the corner behind the drumkit and out of reach. Soundcheck was minimal, about 90secs. Not ideal and I was mixing so just a matter of setting levels. Far too much bass because of the corner position so I cut that on the bass and just managed to reach across and trim the bass eq back and boost the mids before having to set up the drummer's in ears. He'd forgotten the batteries, not downloaded the app and used my in ears. By this time we were late so just got on with the First set. Said drummer is lovely man 30 years younger than me and well built so he is loud but I had turned the bass down so there was plenty of volume from this tiny cab. We aren't the absolutely loudest band out there but Stevie who arrived to hear the end of the First set said he was surprised how loud we were. That volume is set by the drummer of course. The bass sound where I was seemed ok. It was dominated by resonances from the corner position and was abit woolly but the horn was doing it's job well and I was getting plenty of detail. Out front Stevie reported that the balance was fine but the bass sound could have been less bass dominated and more mid forward. So conclusions? Well if 50-100people is a medium sized gig then this little speaker will be enough indoors. Sitting on the floor with the speaker backed against the wall you'll be trimming back the bass. For me it worked really well as a monitor in a difficult space. The dispersion characteristics of the horn made my job as a bassist easy. The big plus for me is that I can say for certain that even with it's diminutive size and modest power handling it was really happy matching a very solid drummer. Back at the gig second set and Stevie's new 'super speaker' 🔊 . Well that's his story, but it was super.

Not if it is disconnected I'd check the crossover is disconnected too. often it's just a high pass filter with only a couple of components to protect the tweeter but it's possible there is something filtering out the the high frequencies from the 10's. If all your horn is doing is blocking a hole it's probably best to just run a connection from the sockets to the speakers bypassing everything else. Though if you've been using it happily for years it's probably fine

You'll be fine. The 8ohm rating is only an 'average' rating as the impedance varies with frequency anyway. In a properly designed cab the crossover deals with all this for you swapping the signal from the bass units to the tweeter anyway so the amp always 'sees' the right impedance. If the tweeter is out of circuit anyway it will have no effect on impedance.

The bit that makes no sense is that Speakons are designed to be idiot proof. The whole shape of the sockets makes it really difficult/impossible to get the wrong plug into the socket. You can't for example get a Powercon connector to fit even though they look similar and i can't think of an instrument cable that would fit in any way. I think it was a Speakon but may have been faulty, who knows? I also think Paul is right, something was wrong and the protection circuits cut in and saved any further problems. I hope you'll find all is good and you won't have problems in future. I stick one lead in my guitar case and one in with the amp so it halves the chance of ending up with a lead missing and gives me a spare if one goes down at a gig.

My heart goes out to you, it's horrible to have an equipment failure at a gig. It's easy to say now but next time use the lead straight from bass to amp and cut out as much as you can, if bass amp and speakers are working you can get to the end of the gig. If they cant then you can then think about going straight to the PA. No-one can be definitive because it sounds like you tried pretty much everything but panic stops you remembering exactly what. To me however if you continued through the PA sub then you had a signal as far as the Ashdowns DI out, and it may be the speakon lead. They generally have screw connectors which means they are easy to fix (no soldering) but fail fairly easily. The grub screw comes loose and you get an intermittent connection until the lead comes right out. I'm a bit worried about your Helix too, if it is playing up you need to address that too. It may be you have a couple or more faults to sort before the next gig. There's loads of stuff on YouTube to tell you how to wire a Speakon How to make-wire SpeakON cables for PA speakers #DIY37 - YouTube Looks like you are just down the road from me, pm me if you get stuck

yep all good now

Another vote for the Lidl batteries, I bought a couple of 12 packs of the coloured ones (2,300mAh, ready charged) a few years ago after having good results with some older versions too. Most of them are a few years old now with the oldest maybe 10 years old. I probably lose at most a couple a year that won't charge, but basically they go on forever, a few are rolled out at Christmas only to power lights and they are all good too even after sitting unused for 11 months, the rest are in pretty constant use and have been recharged hundreds of times. I also have a Lidl intelligent charger that does what it says on the tin, the only thing is that if I completely flatten them (usually by leaving my Zoom B10N on overnight) it detects the batteries as duds. I have an old fashioned trickle charger and 5 mins in that gives enough charge for the intelligent charger to identify them as good. Once charged they are back to behaving normally. At gigs they run the B1 a Zoom H4N recorder and my Line6 wireless transmitter plus my Trantec in ears receiver and all run for longer than the length of the gig, I carry spares but have never needed them.

I'm another with a pair of 1x12's one will pretty much match the drums (and why would I want to be louder then the drummer) the second is there for the odd time I play bigger venues.

Zoom B1-Four. I do all my headphone practice with mine, great headphone sound and comes with a tuner, drum machine , dozens of fx and some useful built in cab and amp emulations. I use mine with batteries (rechargeable AA's) and get about 10 hours out of them. That cuts the leads down by one and means I can practice anywhere. And it's cheap!

First of all well done for doing this, I'm sure people will find it helpful. I hesitate to make too many suggestions which will make extra work for you but a couple of things to possibly consider. I think anyone looking at this with a view to buying would want a comprehensive list of the lightest cabs. Would it be fairer to include all cabs below a certain weight? In your 12's for example you have a cab at 14.9kg which is a bit of a middleweight, but you only have one Barefaced. All their 12's are lightweight and if I was looking for a light 12 I'd want to know the full list. I can't see a 33kg Ampeg as lightweight Along a similar vein adding a horn, crossover and compression driver is going to add at least 2kg so target for designing a lightweight 12 might be 10kg for a single driver and 12kg for one with a tweeter. You could effectively end up excluding all tweetered cabs from your list. Maybe you could have a separate list for tweetered cabs? Finally I'm concerned at the power ratings manufacturers give. I see one manufacturer is rated by you as 600W (their ads say use a 600W amp), but the speaker they use is a modified Eminence driver which is thermally rated at 400W by Eminence. Other manufacturers are using the same driver rated (correctly IMO) at 400W. The same speaker is rated as 97db per watt sensitivity but maximum output is quoted by the cab maker as 127db, it's actually nearer 121db and similar to nearly every other 12" speaker on your list. To get that output would take 1000W(+30db) It's all a bit of a minefield so maybe you could put in a note to say that the power handling figures are from the manufacturers and people need to take them with a pinch of salt. I wouldn't go near trying to find and list the maximum output/ sensitivity figures I don't think you'll find any objective figures.

It would be good to see you there. It's tough to get out to see a lot of bands at the moment but it's a great place to get to hear a lot of gear all in one place and to try it all out.

Frank Blank - Spirit Of The Bash, bike park Rich - Shuker custom 5, Tanglewood acoustic 4 - both basses strung with nickel Elixirs. Korg Pandora (if I can find the feckin thing) and trusty Sennheiser cans wrinkleygit - Jabba’s Semi Hollow Fretless, ‘72 Gibson EB0, SWR Working Mans 10 combo & 1x10 ext cab & a set of h’phones. Both basses strung with Labella flats scrumpymike - FOR SALE: Eden WT550 Traveler; Ashdown ABM 600 EVO IV. 'Keepers' also on display will be: my no. 1 gig bass 'Rascal Mervyn-Lyte; 'Rascal Lyte Mkll; Sandberg Cali lV s-s; Mesa Subway TT-800; a pair of BF SC3 cabs; a Gillett Contour or two (or maybe even 3) - one of which will prolly be FS. Pea Turgh - My Frankenstein Jazzguarman(!) strung with D’Addario XL Chrome flats. My black bitsa (same strings). Probably my Peterson combo which I’ll flit between selling and not selling (still). Stevie - Ibanex SR1200-VNF, Ashdown RM500, BCbass 112, plus some other bass cab developments (probably) yorks5stringer - Warwick Star Bass Proline (4 string), Status GP Artist (again 4 string), Marcus Miller Micro 101, 1972 Telecaster Bass (poss.), Shuker Course 5 String (poss.) Andyjr1515 - Not yet sure what I will be bringing except my athletic physique and chiselled good looks (and if you believe that.... ) stewblack - Trace Elliot Rig of Death. Ric inspired 'tributes' various amps and basses for sale unless they shift here first. A hernia (probably). basstone - For Sale refurbished Marshall DBS200 combo fitted with beyma 12" speaker. BC v3 cab with G&K MB500 amp. '78 Fender fretless jazz bass with rotosound nylon coated strings. Probably plus one other bass TBD Woodinblack - Ibanez EHB1505, Shuker Uberhorn, Chapman Stick, PositiveGrid Spark amp. Chienmortbb - BC112 speaker, Bugera Mosfet amp, Fender Aerodyne and/or Greg Bennett semi acoustic bass ( might sell if the offers are right). I may even bring my homebrew 500 watt amp designed in conjunction with Passinwind if finished. Cuzzie - tbc MoJoke - whatever demo gear is left over from the month before (Manchester Bass Show), so will definitely have my Casa rig, probably the new Vintage D2 head (which I am thinking of selling the Casa to buy... it’s that good!), and I'll try and bring Markbass instruments and some packs of the new Markbass strings to give away olipaulo - Fender Elite Jazz, Status Empathy 5 and PRS SE Kestrel. Markbass CMD 151P, SWR LA15, GK MB112-ii and GK MB212-ii (the last three are for sale so they may be missing from the bash). Helix LT & IEMs sbrag -- some or all of: Yamaha bb1100s, G&L JB Tribute (Tuned d std), Shergold Marathon, MTD CRB with tone styler preamp (Tuned D std), Tobias Toby Pro, Hohner B2A, Encore Fretless P with Roto tapewounds, Tanglewood Elf, Bugera Veyron T, Barefaced Super Twin T, Various pedals Triumph_Rock - Rickenbacker 4003S5, Sterling Stingray Sub4 HH, Ashdown Little Stubby Amp, Ashdown 15" Cab. Richard Jinman - tbc Stub Mandrel - Fender Performer, Deathburger (sublime to the ridiculous) maybe another bass and an amp. Norm - I'll bring my '98 Stingray 4 (could be for sale/trade), Squier VM Jazz 5, Squier VM Precision 5, Trace Elliot v4 head & Barefaced Vintage 2x15, Roland Microbass & headphones, earplugs & my wallet, looking at what peeps are bringing with FS tags on!!!! BreadBin - not sure what I'll be bringing, maybe my Taurus 4x10 plus rackmount Pre/Power setup. Jimrs2k2 - all the normal stuff, some of which maybe for sale. PhilStarr - BC 112 Mk1, BC110T, BC Easybuild 12, maybe some other self build designs. Peavey MiniMax, Burny Thunderbird (Japanese Matsumoku copy)

that was my best next bet. It's BassChat live and local. Basschatters meeting up in Somerset bringing along loads of gear and sharing ideas, experience and GAS. Oh and the food is fantastic Sept 19th if you can wait that long The Big Fat South-West Bass Bash - Now Sunday 19th September 2021 - Events - Basschat

I thought I'd just do an update with a bit of a review. I've had a couple of months with the M18 and I'm really happy with it so far. The first thing to say is that the sound is superb, the mic pre's work really well. We are using decent mics Sennheiser 935's and Shure Beta 58's plus a £200ish EV and the quality shouts out at this level. The learning curve is really short, we had a mix up inside an hour and a day later I had set up a mix for my second band based on what I'd learned from the first and at rehearsal it worked first time, I barely had to touch levels and didn't need to touch anything else. The phone app for mixing your own monitor mix is faultless and it's all just so easy. Some nice bass sounds using the supplied emulators too but I'll stick to using my Zoom for the time being. No dropouts at all with the built in router and I can still mix two rooms away way, better connectivity than anything else in this 400 year old house. I've yet to report any niggles so far. I haven't had a chance to use it at a gig, we've either had hired PA or been cancelled at the last minute but I'll report back when I have.

How we perceive sound is something that is pretty subjective, it could be down to eq and the balance between the bass, middle and treble you have in your system. The other problem is that the language we use for describing sound isn't very precise. For me warmth is a boost in the upper bass/low mids but there isn't a dictionary definition. Try boosting the mids and treble a bit on your tone controls and if you have a lot of bass boost cut it down a bit. Maybe tell us which amp you are using and how you have the tone controls?

If you live near Exeter then Mansons is worth a try. They have a room full of bass gear where you can play at decent volume and the staff are great, there are even bassists on the staff. there are a couple of other music shops in Exeter too. For me there are a list of practicalities that have to be met. I need something reliable and portable for gigging so I can set up quickly, plug and play and get home at a decent hour. It has to be loud enough to match a drummer and fill a room without PA support. I prefer lightweight but it has to be compact. There's lots of gear around that fits that spec but I've kind of settled on a couple of 1x12's as a starting point. One will match the drummer two for bigger/outdoor gigs with a 300/500W amp into 8/4ohms. The most important thing is sound though and the only way is to try it all out. Increasingly I'm moving towards a clean sound rather than anything coloured so I'm happy with PA speakers. So long as PA support is good I'm happy to use floor monitors or in-ears but I'd never go out without a backline amp. Too many sound engineers out there who don't do monitoring well so my gear sits on stage with me even if it is turned right down or off.

I'm curious as to what you mean by 'warm' I'd have thought these speakers would be pretty weak in the bass region. as Bill says they are about as flat as you'll get in that cab the -10db is 55hz and they roll off from around 150hz which is really quite high. -3dB is more than an octave above a low E. In your situation I'd try porting the cab, the blue line is the current predicted response green with a 8cm port 19cm long. that would crucially move the -3dB point to cover most of the open E string harmonics and give you an extra 2dB across most of the bass. 30l is very small for a 12" speaker so the only way to get better bass without spending a fortune is to do as Bill says and use a single speaker or move to a couple of 10's. Porting would mean you got a better response without spending anything.

Thanks that's kind, many of us here looking enviously at the way you guys are handling Covid. I should say we are happy for whoever wants to do a build and is prepared to take a few photo's on the way to be our guinea pig. It really helps to have someone asking the questions as they build as we don't always anticipate the problems you might have at home.

It's a matter of lack of time, there's only three of us working on these projects and two of us have proper jobs. It's about prioritisation and also being fun for us of course. The 'paperwork' is never the most interesting bit As well as writing everything up we also have to build the cabs try them out with our various bands ideally at gigs and rehearsals, take measurements and keep our families happy. Not complaining but it is the reality most of humanity shares. Having said that we have talked to the staff at BC about creating a more stable way to save the designs and make them available. They've been really helpful and I need to take them up on their offer, watch this space. The nature of the forum is that anyone and everyone can join in and make the threads as long and meandering as this (on 13 pages and counting). It's hard to go back and edit with the current format but we are working on ways of making it more user friendly. We tried a guided build with a previous design however where @funkle did a build of the BC112T mark III. It gave us a fresh start without a lot of effort Stevie’s 12” FRFR Cab Build Thread (Basschat Cab v3) - Amps and Cabs - Basschat The thought here was that if Finbar or someone else took on a build then I could pack it up front with the necessary information without a lot of effort. He could put up pictures of his build to help people through and it's encouraging for people to see someone build a cab. Talking someone through a build helps everyone, and keeps us all at BC entertained.

Ain't that the truth