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[quote name='keving' post='778460' date='Mar 18 2010, 12:05 PM']I'd be interested to hear why nobody has suggested the Ashdown practice amps. I haven't tried one yet but was considering one for quiet accoustic jams as my rig is a bit overkill. Should I reconsider?[/quote] Nothing wrong with the Ashdown amps - in fact there's a nice one for sale below, in my signature

[quote name='xgsjx' post='776962' date='Mar 17 2010, 08:24 AM']Funny thing, I was gonna suggest Ashdown as their Mag stuff falls into a similar price range as the Marshall crap & is probably about 1/2 the weight & twice as good sounding. That looks like a good wee rig you're selling there. 2x10 is the way I went & stand it vertically![/quote] It is a super little rig & I reckon it stands comparison 'for sound' with the Marshall or Fender stuff at practically twice the price. AND - it's a 'practice combo' + you've got the separate 100 watt head - you can plug into whatever speakers you fancy, Ashdown have done some pretty good low budget/practice gear & this is the top of the range. They say it will cope with small gigs too, I dunno?

[quote name='portlandgrey' post='776646' date='Mar 16 2010, 08:11 PM']MMMMM, i had looked at that before. Hows it sound?[/quote] FANTASTIC! Just the basic EQ with a 'deep' switch, all you need really without gimmicks, full range of tones. I'm selling it because I want true valve sound, which I hope I'm going to get with the new Ashdown 30 watt Little Bastard amp. Seriously - I'd say it's as good as you get in that price bracket, it's a well made bit of kit with everything you need in a practice rig & of course it looks great - like a mini rig! I'll even knock a tenner of to help with courier charge if you're interested? Cheers, John

[quote name='portlandgrey' post='776597' date='Mar 16 2010, 07:05 PM']Nothing at all wrong with the Orange, just that its a 20w output & 8" speaker. Does sound nice though. I just can't get the sound i want, particularly on the g sting, & i'm hoping that playing through a much bigger speaker/s, even at a lower volume, will give me more of the sound i'm looking for. My house is also detached, which helps! I agree with the advive re second hand though, but i'm in the channel islands & it seems that a lot of sellers insist on collection only, even though i've offered to arrange a courier to collect.[/quote] Why didn't I think of this earlier? Here you are: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=78791&st=0&gopid=776600&#entry776600"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...mp;#entry776600[/url] Courier collection no problemo!

Although 'both are a similar price', you're looking at twice the output 300/210 against 150/115. 150W is more than plenty for home use. I haven't tried the Marshall combos but haven't heard much good about them. I did try the Fender Rumbles 100/115 & 100/210, IMO they were very plasticy even tinny & cheap in a box sound, didn't like them at all, the 15 seemed slow & thumpy, the 210 too much mid. It would be great if you could find a dealer where you could at least try some b4 you buy. I'm sure your stingray has plenty of low down grunt & if that's the sound you like I personally think the 15" will be a better bet for you but it looks like there's no tweeter so it might be a bit lacking/thin in top end. It's difficult to choose - I'm in the same situation - even trying in a showroom is not the same as when you get it home but it can help. Why do you want to replace the Orange? Good luck, John [quote name='portlandgrey' post='776391' date='Mar 16 2010, 04:14 PM']Chaps, i'm looking at a bigger combo to replace my Orange 20b. I've been looking at the Marshall MB 150 & MB 4210, both are a similar price. Not sure if i should go with the single 15" or double 10" setup. My local dealer has to order these in, so i have no chance of trying before i buy. The amp is for home use only with my stingray SR4. Any suggestions very welcome indeed![/quote]

I can't seem to find a good 1x12 in 4 ohm so wondering about going for a 15? 'When I was a lad' I loved my 2 x 18" so I don't think 10s are ever going to do it for me I only want it for practice, home & hall, driven with 30 valve powered watts, but I want that deep old tone Think P bass with black nylons - now we're thumpin! Good price at the moment, but would like Basschaters views please? [url="http://www.shxmusic.com/15l.htm"]http://www.shxmusic.com/15l.htm[/url]

[quote name='hagguy' post='775672' date='Mar 15 2010, 08:50 PM']anyone know where to get decent thumbrests im gonna stick some on my basses but i can only find plastic ones the wood one on my old jazz is great would love them on my sandberg and ibanez, any recommendations on good ones and where to get them would be appreciated. thanks in advance [/quote] email this guy: [email protected] his website = [url="http://www.bassguitarthumbrests.com/"]http://www.bassguitarthumbrests.com/[/url] I've got a couple from him & they're good quality. Cheers, John

Hey Gareth, Are these cabs front or rear ported? Can they be used close to a 'rear wall' & what's the overall frequency range please? Cheers, John [quote name='HartkeUK' post='718343' date='Jan 19 2010, 08:20 PM']Since taking the bass world by storm in 2007, Hartke HyDrive has emerged as one of the most innovative and popular products in the bass industry. Now, the HyDrive family is expanding thanks to the new HX112 HyDrive cabinet, a lightweight, powerful solution that makes life easy for performing bassists everywhere. HyDrive speakers fuse traditional paper and aluminum cones, giving players the warmth of paper and the punchy attack of aluminum. The HX112 features a single 12-inch, 300 watt HyDrive hybrid cone driver and a high frequency compression driver in a specially tuned, ported bass cabinet that weighs just under 30 pounds. Ideal for any playing style, the cabinet is dual-impedance, allowing a user to switch between 4 and 8 ohm impedances. “The 1 x 12 bass cabinet traditionally has a warm, solid bottom end that’s tight sounding and never too boomy,” says Larry Hartke, founder of Hartke Systems. “So we’ve taken the HyDrive technology and built it into a 1 x 12 configuration. The result is a 300 watt bass cab with awesome bottom end that only weighs 30 pounds!” If you need to be louder, adding a second HX112 will provide enough power to shake any stage. And to complement its lightweight portability, this cab also features inset side handles, removable casters and a steel grill for safe and easy transport. “Like its HyDrive predecessors, the HX112 combines power, tone and durability is a roadworthy cab that makes the trip to any stage or studio a breeze,” says Mark Wilder, Director of Marketing for Samson. “Getting this much power in a lightweight solution makes the HX112 truly a bassist’s dream come true.” [url="http://www.facebook.com/#/photo.php?pid=30408731&id=1398336565"]Hartke HCH112 Cabinet[/url][/quote]

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='775102' date='Mar 15 2010, 12:03 PM']Meters read low so 8 ohms it will be.[/quote] Many thanks Bass Doc & G for replying while I was typing Cheers

I have a 12" speaker - Celestion Truvox 1220 with no other markings of power handling or impedance. It measures 5.6 Ohms with my multimeter so is it most likely a 4 or 8 Ohm impedance wise? I know you can't actually measure impedance with a meter - but as a guide - will the meter read lower or higher? BTW the speaker works fine, I just want to know before I try it on another amp. Cheers, John

Bludy marvelous, seriously impressed

[quote name='chris_b' post='772906' date='Mar 12 2010, 04:13 PM']Now stop going all sentimental on us!!![/quote] I'm not sure I can actually remember a lot about them 70's, I'm sure I was there but _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ - there seems to be a lot of gaps - though sentimental I am I went to every shop in 'that London' trying Ricks, I had saved up £400 somehow, all the Ricks were crap & then I found the Gherson, it was instant love! I still begrudge having to get rid of it, strangely - shortly after the wedding (November 75) & the HiWatts & the monster Orange 2x18. If I knew then! [quote name='Ou7shined' post='772915' date='Mar 12 2010, 04:20 PM']Pity it's only got one then. [/quote] Yeah - very true So - What's it worth?

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220570379886&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT[/url] Just like the one I bought new in 1973 & was my main gigging bass until marriage did us part! I never expected to find one on ebay So enormous sentimental value but I really have all I need

Finally back together & sounds amazing Exactly how I hoped it would + Looks fantastic Thanks again to Alan - his info was spot on - Cheers I o u 1 After all my work, I'm wondering if that's why it was sold in the first place, 'cos it's now sounding a hundred times better!

[quote name='AlanP2008' post='767634' date='Mar 8 2010, 09:46 AM']I hate to disagree here... but here it goes... *Normally*, you'd wire a pup to the top of the pot, ground the bottom, and take the signal from the middle tag (the wiper). That is the conventional way to wire a volume pot for (almost) any occasion. However, whenever you have *two* volume controls, you simply can't do that, because when one pot is turned right down, it is connecting the output signal directly to ground. That's fine when there is only one pot (it is what you want...), but when there is two volume pots, the signal from the wiper of the other pot is also connected to ground - that is to say, the two pots interact big time. So the method used (electrically it's rather kludgy, but it works) is to connect the pup to the wiper, and take the output signal from the top tag on the pot (which sounds exactly like the way you were describing it was originally wired). So as one pot is turned down, it is progressively loaded down by the decreasing resistance to ground, but at the same time, the part of the track between the wiper and the top of the pot is progressively increasing the resistance to the output jack. In the end, the pup is shorted to ground, but the output isn't - the result is that there is little interaction between the two pots (well, there is interaction, but it is largely in your favour). If you wire it like this - you could still end up with pups out of phase (which can be fixed by reversing one of them). You can usually tell they are out of phase if turning one volume pot down a bit actually causes the overall signal to get fatter and louder. If this isn't happening, and switching the wiring on one of the pups isn't helping either, then your problem lies elsewhere (ie. not phasing)... Maybe this? In the (6-string) guitar world, single-coil pups are usuallly wired with a 250k volume pot, and humbuckers are usually wired with a 500k pot. A 500k pot on an SC *usually* sounds too bright, and a 250k pot on an HB *usually* sounds too dark. You should perhaps check what pot value is recommened for the pups you have (although mixing types, and hence pot values, is always a bit of a compromise...) Hope this helps. Alan[/quote] Yes - thanks Alan, great help ta. I'll read that again & I think a bit of trial & error is coming my way Cheers, John

This is what I was talking about:- [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?moduleno=498"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?moduleno=498[/url] Looks exactly what it needs - I think? I can get to Maplins Expert help required please as to exactly how it should be wired in?

[quote name='exup1000' post='767052' date='Mar 7 2010, 04:59 PM']hello, looking at getting a new lead.has any body used/got fenders gold and platinum bass lead if so is it any good??[/quote] +1 for the platinum - top quality lead & plugs - bit stiffer than most but will no doubt last forever & lifetime warranty Like most things - worth a little extra outlay for decent gear & of course it sounds better as if my ears could tell! soundslive usually have them at good price:- [url="http://www.soundslive.co.uk/categories~name~Guitar-Cables~ID~69.asp"]http://www.soundslive.co.uk/categories~nam...ables~ID~69.asp[/url] Cheers, John

As above, is there a mod I can do? I'm thinking a capacitor across the switch? I'm fine at soldering & doing the job but wouldn't dream of trying it without knowing what value & where the cap should go exactly, for obvious reasons! I remember using a 'PMR' in the past, was that a capacitor & resistor encapsulated in a package? Is that what I need? Cheers, John