KiOgon

[quote name='Musicman69' post='766856' date='Mar 7 2010, 01:31 PM']Hi All, Any ideas what I should do about this.. [attachment=44332:RIMG0033.gif] It started cracking and flaking (bad skin!) last year and is steadily getting worse. Ive no plans to sell this bass so a DIY job will do unless its a serious issue. Its a StingRay and I look after it very well, ie never expose it to extreme temperatures, no sharp buttons or buckles etc. Mystery to me why this happened in the first place! Any advice appreciated, thanks. John[/quote] It's a bit late but: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTJ7AzBIJoI"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTJ7AzBIJoI[/url] Nothing short of a refinish will really sort that!

[quote name='Sibob' post='765146' date='Mar 5 2010, 02:04 PM']Cheers for the ideas guys! John, you think it might be a manky string?. They're new, although cheap (not Newtones), so I'd hope not lol. I'll try having a closer look to see if there's any frets higher than others etc, it's my OLP Thingray bass, so a bit of a frankenstein/project, so I don't mind having a go at 'dressing' the fret myself Si[/quote] Was thinking if you'd changed the tuning, you might be bringing into use an area of string that was previously flattened but gone un-noticed until the change in tension. Maybe not so if they're new though.

[quote name='SteveO' post='764944' date='Mar 5 2010, 11:34 AM']Is it just me that finds this a little weird? 3 basses of different colours, but only one is for sale. he doesn't care which, just let him know at the end which one you'd like. unless of course this is a feeler auction and he's planning on adjusting the BIN when it comes to selling the other two.[/quote] I read it as 'you're only bidding on one bass - let me know which colour you want'

When I saw all the discussion about the UPS driver picture, I thought it was going to be this well known picture. [/quote] Ah! That's more like it - must be worth £95 if she delivers

[quote name='Sibob' post='765096' date='Mar 5 2010, 01:30 PM']Hurrow! I've just taken my second Drop C bass back to standard tuning after a number of years, and while I'm happy with the setup (ie no buzzes or rattles anywhere else, neck is basically straight with just that tiny bit of relief that Jerzy Drozd suggests lol), there is one note that is buzzing horribley. It's the High G# on the G string (13th Fret), notes either side are fine, and on different strings on the same fret, but that one note is yuk, buzzy and dead. Is it a funky part of the fret that needs attention perhaps? It doesn't look particulaly knackered, no more than the other frets. I can't see that it's lifting from the fretboard or anything...... Any ideas? Cheers Si[/quote] Hi Si, Have you lifted the G string around 13th fret & run your finger along the underside? Cheers, John

Looks worth a punt - anybody tried one? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOP-NEW-4-STRING-FRETLESS-BASS-IN-3-COLOURS_W0QQitemZ370343063421QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item563a2aaf7d"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOP-NEW-4-STRING-FRE...=item563a2aaf7d[/url] Just don't mention the UPS driver! Cheers, John

Thanks robocorpse - very helpful cheers, I get exactly what you're saying about the wiper picking up along the track, sounds right. 'Goofed at the factory' indeed. No worries about the warranty - if only they got it right in the first place & customer service is as much help as a hole in your boat! No problem changing things, I have a decent Weller iron & the right tools + skills for the job, I have already tried each pup direct to a jack socket & the bridge SCN is certainly lower lower output but I don't think it is faulty, just not as strong as the 1/4lb, causing a mis-match IMO pity Fender didn't fit 1/4lbs in both positions! The behaviour of the pots was peculiar, the first 60 degrees or so of rotation had practically no effect, then at fully clockwise the volume & tone wasn't quite right, I had to back off both a little to achieve the max output & best tone. Used individually they're better but certainly not 'quite right' together. No amp problems BTW, using my TE Boxer 65 - with settings the same as when using my '51P for comparison. As soon as my copper tape arrives I'll get it back together, wired as you suggest & let you know. Thanks again for your help, it's much appreciated, John [quote name='robocorpse' post='764665' date='Mar 5 2010, 01:01 AM']The pickups sounding "thin and wimpy" would be both of them, not just one, if it was out of phase (one black/white pair reversed) so its not that. The diagrams are correct, pickups should go to #1's and exit at linked #2's which feeds the o/p jack. According to the wiring you describe in your own bass, the pots are wired wrongly, if you connect the pickup hot to tab 2, thats the wiper, and you are giving each pickup a variable resistance between hot and ground whenever you turn the pot. It will work, but it will vary the circuit characteristics. What you should be wired for is a constant resistance from hot to ground by connecting the pickup hot to one end of the track (tab 1), and the wiper picks up the signal somewhere along that line, so you get volume control, but the pickup side of the circuit stays at the same impedance. Maybe Franks bass is wired oddly, but I would think more likely it was goofed at the factory, and it might cause problems in the real world. Tab 3 is always connected to earth, leave that alone. You are obviously not averse to changing the wiring in the bass, so why not swap the #1 and #2 connections and see if that cures it? While you are doing that, it would be worth temporarily hard-wiring each pickup in turn DIRECT to the output jack, and see if there are still wimpy sounds coming from the bridge pickup, in which case you will know its knackered. Only problem then is Fender will not honour the warranty as soon as you touch the solder joints. Catch 22...[/quote]

My Frank Bello bass has low output from the bridge pup ( Fender samarium cobalt noiseless) compared to the neck pup SD SPB-3. I know it's a bit unusual having only a volume pot for each pup but - easy - NO! I've bought a SD SJB-3b to swap for the scn, so upon removing the back cover I find the usual birds nest of black & white wires. The white wire from each pup goes to #2 on each pot, blacks to pot bodies, (shown on diagram to #1) White wire linking #1s on each pot, (shown on diagram to #2s) #3 on each pot soldered to pot body, (shown on diagram not connected). Jack socket wired white to #1 link, (shown on diagram to #2s link), black to body, black wire from each pot body + bridge bond to earth tag, + 1 extra black wire that goes into neck pup hole, (not shown on diagram at all). 2 or 3 days ago I emailed SD for info on using the 2 1/4 lbs together but no reply. Checking the online Fender wiring diagram:- [url="http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0130095306A/SD0130095306APg2.pdf"]http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf...0095306APg2.pdf[/url] shows different wiring, (as comments in brackets above). Seymour Duncan website says:- "If two pickups sound thin and wimpy when used together, they’re out of phase with each other. If you’re combining your Basslines pickup(s) with Fender® pickup(s) in the same bass, you’ll need to reverse the black and white wires on the Basslines." As mine could have been described as 'thin & wimpy' I tried reversing black & white = no discernible difference. I phoned Fender UK & explained, then sent an email explaining again:- "Hi Scott, We spoke about the pup wiring on my Bello. The output of the bridge jazz pup SCN is not as good as the neck pup SD SJB-3 1/4 pound (standard), so I'm fitting a SD SJB-3b 1/4 pound to the bridge position. Seymour Duncan website says:- "If two pickups sound thin and wimpy when used together, they’re out of phase with each other. If you’re combining your Basslines pickup(s) with Fender® pickup(s) in the same bass, you’ll need to reverse the black and white wires on the Basslines." In the control cavity I find the original wiring is the mess I expected - both white wires from pups go to centre tag on each volume pot, both black wires to pot body. That is in contradiction with what is shown on Fender wiring diagram:- [url="http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0130095306A/SD0130095306APg2.pdf"]http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf...0095306APg2.pdf[/url] Hence my confusion! I have emailed Seymour Duncan via their website a few days ago regarding using the SJB-3b in conjunction with the standard SPB-3 neck but not got any reply. Now I need the correct wiring information in a hurry - please can you get an answer for me - which way should the new SJB-3 be wired in? Cheers," Their answer:- "Hi John, Thanks for your email. I have had a word with a guitar tech about this and he has said that basically the Frank Bello bass is a ‘quirky’ model as it is a signature made to his specifications. It is possible that due to the differences between this bass and a more standard version, the Seymour Duncan info you have is referring more to the standard version rather than the Frank Bello which was wired up in a more unconventional way! Unfortunately I cannot provide any further information on this as the guitar techs are unable to comment on how the SD pickups should be installed. You said previously that you have the wiring diagram for this model (I have attached it again in case this is incorrect). I believe Seymour Duncan should be able to provide you with more specific details as to how it should be wired. Sorry I cannot be of any further help on this. Thanks," (The wiring diagram attached is identical). I'm sorry this is long winded but could do with some technical advise please, I understand wiring & pots etc, (at least I thought I did!) Does it make any difference the way the pups are wired to #1 or #2 on the pots? Does it make any difference that #3s are soldered to the bodies? It's all in bits at the moment, waiting for some copper shielding tape & some help please! Thanks for reading John EDIT: I've just seen on performanceguitar.com > # Shielding : $80.00~ !*80 bloody dollars*! # Put Shielding Material inside of the Control Cavity # (It makes your guitar noiseless)

What sort of strings are they? CatGut?

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='762708' date='Mar 3 2010, 10:49 AM']As per title, what's the best way to do this? Preferably something cheapish too. Thanks Thom[/quote] Hang on - the g/f's got a book on jams & preserves - I'll have a look Clear varnish? What 'ink' is the signature done in & where is it? Sellotape? A clear self sticky vinyl?

Might be good for someone: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BASS-EXTENDER-HIPSHOT-FENDER-PRECISION-JAZZ-MUSICMAN_W0QQitemZ120537201319QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item1c1093baa7"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BASS-EXTENDER-HIPSHO...=item1c1093baa7[/url] Nothing to do with me, I was just looking! I want a Fender Lite one as it happens.

[quote name='Flanker' post='761349' date='Mar 1 2010, 11:20 PM'](If your budgets 3k mine should be 5k)[/quote] So for next January - mine should be £6K

My Skjold is 35" 4 string 24 fret, it's no big difference to play from my Fenders (P or J), but with GHS black nylons on it's really smooth & easy downtuned at DGCF Sweet Edit: The black nylons are on the Skjold - not me! Just in case you were wondering

[quote name='lanark' post='756134' date='Feb 24 2010, 02:50 PM']So I'm looking to use a mute / damper to get that motown / baby bass sound (already have flats). But I was wondering where to draw the line - how much damping do I need before it gets too much? (by the way, I'm just using a kitchen sponge with the scourer pad cut off, stuck under the strings near the bridge - should that be enough to do the job?) So what do you all use?[/quote] I had a sample piece about 4" x 3" of Firestone Butyl Rubber pond liner sitting on my computer desk, I was using it as a beer mat. Then I rolled it up tight (bit like a spliff!) & stuffed it under the strings so it's wedged in place on the Badass upstream of the adjustable saddles, works a treat, best damper I've tried & it kind of looks OK

Break the mold - go for a Skjold [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Skjold_Lions_Pride_B.html"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_sp...ns_Pride_B.html[/url] Highly recommended

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='757876' date='Feb 26 2010, 08:57 AM']Squier do a Frank Bello sig too, although it's got a big dirty skull on it[/quote] Yes IMO it's fugly & why put a Jazz neck on it? I think the Fender version is a serious tool, the Squire? Frank(ly) not!

[quote name='Jerry_B' post='757707' date='Feb 25 2010, 11:11 PM']If that was me I'd whack in one of those humbucking Jazz pups [/quote] Mmmmmmmmm - you got one spare?

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='756133' date='Feb 24 2010, 02:48 PM']Only [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=43945"]here[/url] and [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=25505"]here[/url] and [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=48926"]here[/url] and [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=52405"]here[/url] and [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=70234"]here[/url]. S.P.[/quote] I'm in bloody tears watching that cat! Excellent

[quote name='Mike_M' post='757507' date='Feb 25 2010, 08:00 PM']Ok so here is what I've heard about the LB30 head. They are making a 100 hand built in the UK ones which will retail at £579 The production ones will be made in China and will retail at £399 Although there are 100 being built in the UK, only 25 will be available for the UK to buy, the rest go out to Ashdown fans across the world. Each hand built amp will come with a certificate stating that it was hand built ! The amp will run at 30watts @ 4 ohms, and around 20 watts @ 8 ohms I have also heard that some are already built and ready, but they are waiting for them all to be done before they start distribution. Finally, Distribution will start from April for the hand build and May for the factory build. This is all I know, Hope it helps Mike Sources : ( Ashdown Music + Bonners Music )[/quote] You almost had me believing all that - then I saw Bonners!