GarethFlatlands

I checked it this morning to see if drying overnight had somehow fixed it, and while it looked a lot better in terms of coverage and evenness, it still looks very amateurish. The best thing at this point seems to be to cut my losses and attempt a solid colour finish. I spent yesterday evening looking at pretty much every spray can colour Halfords stocked and I've narrowed it down to a preferred choice, and a backup in case they don't have any of my first choice in stock. If there are better, easier to apply choices of paint than car spray cans then please let me know ASAP.

More sanding today. 180, 240 and then 320 grit all over the body. Then a rub down with a damp cloth to raise the grain, followed by a further sand with 400 grit. The body is now ready for finishing which was a nice coincidence, as the water based stains arrived just after noon. There were 3 colours, navy, antique pink, and purple with a plan to do a base of navy, then a burst of pink/purple. First up, the scrap piece of wood test; the same wood (an offcut from the body shaping) and then onto it. Not bad, and it actually works better in person. The initial coat of navy raised the grain again, and was re-sanded again, but the rest of it came together nicely. So onto the body with the same technique. One coat and a sand later. And then onto the burst. Despite the scrapwood test, this did not go well. Bit of a mess! Now I have to make a decision; try and add more stain to make the burst work, or sand it right back and paint over it. My first thought it to abandon the stain and attempt a spraycan paint finish. I have to go to Halfords tomorrow to pick up a baby car seat so grabbing a couple of rattle cans is an option. Any suggestions welcome!

Well this all sounds depressingly familiar! I had the best results using 2 lengths of right-angle steel as rails, although it still wasn't perfect and required a lot of sanding to flatten up after thicknessing. If I do it again, I'm going to either; a) build a better jig, using 18mm MDF as a base and then use rectangular tube steel as side rails. Pricey, but possibly worth it in the long run. Or, you know; b) actually order the body wood at the right thickness in the first place. This may or may not be possible, depending where your wood is sourced from.

As there was plenty of material left in the neck pocket, I did as Andyjr suggested and took a mm or so out of it to both drop the neck further, and to make sure the pocket was nice and flat. There's still a slight gap which I'll look at addressing further down the line but it's better than the pic above. The main jobs today were tackling the pickup placement and routing. I used the setup below to thread a piece of garden twine through the bridge. This was then secured at the headstock with a scrap of wood and a clamp. Some sticky tape held the nut in place so the string could sit in it at one end, and then across the saddles at the other. I measured 35" on both lengths of twine and marked them off with a best-fit line, drawn at a right angle to the centre line. If it's a few mm off, then the adjustable saddles should be able to move to compensate. Once I had the bridge in the right place, I drilled 2 very shallow holes at the top and bottom screw positions so I could keep it there while marking out the position of the bridge pickup. On my scrap Jazz, this was (I think....) 1 and a half inches from the edge of the bridge. The neck pickup distance was dictated by the scratchplate. Once I had some rough lines, I used the twine to figure out if the pickups were at the right height and once I was satisfied with everything, marked the positions off. Routing went pretty smoothly and the bridge pickup cavity was quickly done. There was an empty cover in the basement for build purposes, and this dropped in nicely. Repeat for the neck pickup, and we're done with all the body routing! Note the carpet square I dug out to protect the body from knocks and scuffs from my horrible, unfinished workbecnch. Time for the nerve-wracking bit; drilling the holes for the pickup wires. The neck was OK as the distance I had to blindly drill was pretty short, but the bridge was terrifying. I just (and I mean just) made the control cavity without going through the back of the body, and made some nice drill scuffs on the wood which you can see above. I still have the bridge ground wire to do, but I think I'm just going to run that into the pickup cavity and then through the same wire as the pickup. The picture is terrible, but you can just make out how low the pickup wire hole (marked by the pencil arrow) was in the control cavity for the bridge p/u. As the body had been abused a bit, I felt it was best to re-sand everything at this point and did a pass at 80 grit and then one at 120 grit before calling it a day.

The truss rod was put in the top and there's no fillet covering it, so the flat part is pressing up against the bottom of the fretboard piece. The neck is deepish, the truss rod nut doesn't look particularly high or low. It does however stick out quite a way over the headstock, but that's a problem for nearer the end of the build. I'll take a mm or so from the pocket, to flatten it out if nothing else, then try and remove the rest from the panga panga.

Gig completed! My last with the band due to imminent baby. Back to work on the bass. My first job was to get the neck fitting better into the pocket. First, I used a smaller radius template (one I made for the pickups) to try and nibble away at the pocket corners. This was going OK, until the point where the template slipped and I took a chunk out I didn't want to. Bugger. I could either try nibbling away with the router, or take the lower risk path and sand down the neck heel, the downside with this option being the neck was already finished with tru-oil. I decided that a re-finish was the easier option and using a flat sanding block, re-shaped the neck heel until it was a much tighter fit. I'm hoping the body finish will be thick-ish, and narrow that gap even more. You can't see it in any of the photos, but the bottom of the neck pocket was a good 3-4mm wider than the neck. This is what happens when you use templates you make yourself. Anyway, I'd drilled the holes for the neck using the back plate as a guide, and used these holes to secure a straigh piece of scrap plywood, lined up with the edge of the excess wood. Then, the bass was flipped over and the ply used as a guide for my bottom bearing router bit to get rid of the extra width. This is post-route. A bit of sanding to neaten it all up, and we're golden. Now to fit the neck. First, let's make sure we're not going to drill too deep into the neck. Backplate on, I fitted the screws to maybe 90% tightness and then measured how much they protruded from the body wood. I measured to to part where the screw narrows tapered than the full depth, as I want some wood for the screw to bite into to make a secure connection. About 5/8". I normally work in mm, but the tiny markings on the cm side of this ruler make it hard to see and using the inch edge was just easier. Once done, I removed the screws and backplate and clamped the neck into the body. Then, using the 5mm drill bit I drilled the body holes with, I hand pushed the bit through each the hole, and used the pointed guide part of the bit to mark tiny holes into the neck heel. This gave me the exact centre of where the screws would come through in relation to the body. But rather than drill exactly here, I used an awl to mark a further hole a fraction of a mm closer to the body. This is where the holes will be drilled, the idea being that the slightly offset screws will push the neck towards the body more than if they were lined up perfectly straight. The drill bit (4mm this time, again to give the screws more wood to bite into) was then marked off at 5/8" with masking tape to ensure I didn't got too far into the neck. The holes were drilled, and the neck screwed onto the body. Apparently, the heel isn't perfectly flat as there's a slight gap between the body and the neck. That can be fixed with sanding. The neck seems very thick, and protrudes about 1.7cm from the body. A lot of that is the fretboard wood, so I'll need to make a jig to use the planer router bit to take a good amount of material off quickly and as flat as possible. I already made an attempt to radius it with my radius block, but even with 40 grit paper it took an age to remove any noticable amount of the thickness so that's not an option. To give you an idea, the tallest bit of my P bass is about 8mm + the scratch plate thickness (about 2.2mm assuming it's .090" thick) from the body, so there's almost 5mm that needs removing. Shouldn't I have thicknessed the fretboard wood before I put the neck together? Yep! My other options are to make the pocket deeper, or to attempt something similar to what Andyjr1515 did with his 6 string build for Eude and do an L-shape tenon in the neck heel (see about halfway down this thread on page 2). Or indeed, some combination of these options. I think I'll see how the router planer jig goes before I think about anything too drastic.

I had a Vintage Fuzz Master on guitar, with single notes and power chords it sounded amazing. Absolute filth, but tight at the same time. My issue was that I use a lot of harmonically weird chords and it was not a subtle pedal, so 95% of my playing came out a bit mushy and so I sold it on pretty quickly. Seeing as all their pedals have a rep for filth, I never tried another on guitar, and the fact I'm not a user of fuzz on bass meant it was my first and last pedal of Devi's. I had a chat with either them or someone who was dealing with orders at the time I bought the VFM, and we had a very pleasant back-and-forth via email so I've got nothing bad to say about them there. I can't remember taking the back off it and checking out the quality of the internals, so can't comment on that side of things. I can say it worked great for the short time I had it. I also never had any dealings with them beyond "customer buying a pedal", which I received without issue, so again I can't comment on the business side of things. If you want a very "out there" approach to dirt, I'd say the pedals all look worth checking out.

Looking good!

I'm not doing any more work this week as I have a gig on Saturday (audience seated in tables of 6 or less, no dancing or singing along allowed; should be strange), and I don't want to risk any stupid injuries that would stop it going ahead. As there's some downtime, I thought I'd get the forums opinions on the eventual look of the bass. I still have most of a bottle of tru oil left from the neck and I understand it goes bad relatively quick, so I'm going to use that as the final finish. But the grain of the wood isn't particularly interesting so I was considering staining it first. My first thought was a semi transparent red finish with no scratchplate a la Geddy Lee. But as usual when presented with a lot of choice, I've got total option paralysis. Obvious colour stain? A more natural colour? Flat or burst? Nothing but oil? Blackberry jam? Something else completely? Feel free to chime in with any thoughts.

Thanks, that looks like it might solve both the cavity routing and neck pocket corner issues. If I make another bass, I'll invest in one.

Not much done today. I tried to line up the neck pocket template I made, but as it was so small I was having a hard time getting everything perfectly in line. I gave up and made a new one out of a scrap of plywood. This one is much larger, and includes the top and bottom horns of the body as well as the pocket, making it much easier to line up. You can see the old one on top of the new one here. I used the ply body template for the general shaping, and then the old scrap bass body for the pocket itself. Much better. Routing out the pocket on the new body, I hit the same issues I did yesterday with the control cavity. The plunge router doesn't plunge that deep, so it bottoms out pretty quickly when using the template as a guide. The resulting route isn't deep enough to be able to ditch the template and use the already-routed body to guide the bit. This means swapping the bit out to the palm router to get the pocket to the stage where I can remove the template and swap back to the plunge router to finish the job. And I don't like using the palm router for this job. The small base, lack of handles and lower torque made it much twitchier and there were a couple of points where it jumped wildly as it hit something it didn't like. I'm going to hit the same issues with the pickup cavities as they're the same depth as the neck pocket (1.55 cm as close as I can measure it), but worse as the template and therefore margins of error are much smaller. A quick test fit, and... it looks OK. It's nice and snug in there, but the corners aren't radiused enough (or are too radiused? I forget which way round it is) to get the neck heel up against the edge of the pocket. Nothing that can't be fixed with some very careful freehand routing or much sanding. I'll add "top bearing router bit with slightly smaller radius" to the list of stuff I wish I had but can't justify buying. The centre line looks a little off despite the care I thought I'd taken lining it up from the scrap body and template, but it's too late to worry about now. Looks a bit like a bass! Looks more like a bass in some ways and less in others! The horns look a bit too blocky now that it's all coming together, so the next jobs will be shaping them with the shinto rasp (just visible through the JJ Abrams style lens flare), routing the pickup cavities and sorting out the neck pocket corners.

I'm not sure if Shinto is the name of the tool or the brand (I've seen the same tool sold under the "Ice Bear" name too,) but I suspect we're talking about the same thing. The cavity is covered by the plate, but I'm going to sand the burn off just because it's bugging me slightly, although part of me kind of likes the way it looks too! If there was going to be more of that dark contrast I'd be tempted to keep it.

Today was a general shaping and preliminary routing day. I'm not going to get much routed until I decide on whether or not I'm going to fret the neck. If I do, then I have a simple jig set up to cut the slots, but not a suitable saw. I'm also terrified of cutting frets; on the bass building course I did last year with Jon Shuker, ie where I got the knowledge and confidence to do this build, I made a fretless. Therefore, I have no practical experience with cutting slots (there's also saw on rails at the Shuker shed which made it a doddle. I don't have one of these). Anyway, I started routing the control cavity. This didn't go fantastically well. I made a couple of gouges near the top which, as I was using my trusty top-guide bit, carried on for the full depth. Then my plunge router wouldn't drop low enough for the full 2.75cm depth, and I had to use my palm router. Far from ideal. Maxed out, it cut to the right depth (just) but as you can see, part of it must have been touching the edge of the cavity as there's a nice burn mark around the edges. Still, job done. and the burn should either sand out, or be hidden under the control plate. Then it was on to some body shaping. First up was the ribcage contour and arm rest. My first attempt to shape the arm rest with a No.4 jack plane were stopped by my shoddy workbench moving around far too much with the force involved. I ended up using the saw rasp for body jobs, and for some more general shaping as I wanted a softer, more rounded body than the standard Jazz. I'm a very petite man, but this was a bit too subtle even for me. I ended up making it a little more severe. This is around midway, after the saw rasp and then a good 80 grit sand to see how it was going to look/feel. And the forearm rest mid-shape. Is it wrong to love a woodworking tool? Because I love my saw rasp. The coarse side removes a good amount of material, while the finer side gives a great level of control. The marks then sand out pretty easily.

The top is now flat and radiused, altough the only roundover bit I have is pretty small. 4mm maybe? But I can sand it to something larger if I don't like it. The general body shaping is also done! I'm going to take a couple of mm off the bottom of the body as viewed in the picture and then I'll carve the belly contour and the forearm slope. After that, neck pocket routing and once that's done, I can check the correct position for the bridge and pickups. I have 2 Jazz pickups from an MIM Jazz but I'm massively undecided about whether to use them or something different, although I don't know what. If Ricky pickups were cheaper, I'd go for them but it seems unlikely I'll get a set of a reasonable cost.

Here's a pic from Geddy Lee's Bass book. It's a 52 and the picture isn't great, but it looks like a very small radius to me.

Nice use of spirit levels there 😃 The sled looks nice and sturdy too. It's amazing the difference it makes. My old sled didn't feel flimsy at all but the results are poles apart.

I took a long break from this project just because the time and tedium involved in getting the body thickness down got to me, and the results weren't that good. Trying to avoid paying someone to flatten it for me on a machine, I bought 2 strips of right angled metal to make a sturdier jig, as per the one used by Slappindabass above. After drilling a couple of holes into each strip, I screwed them onto the legs of the original sled as I knew they were the same height. A rubbing of beeswax on the sled and and router base to keep everything moving smoothly, and I was ready to go. One more set of many passes with the router planer bit on the new sled and we were down to around 45mm. Getting there! But how was the finish? Compared to the picture in my previous post, much much less lumpy. There's still the occasional line (and we've uncovered an unfortunate knot in the wood) but it's all much less severe than the previous method, and should all sand out without too much hassle.

I got mine from an ebay seller with the catchy name of 'wen5764'. I was a bit sceptical but it turned up and was good quality.

Maybe route out some chambers on the back, cover them in the same way as your electronics cavity and put a few tasteful f-holes on the front? It's what I'm considering for my build if the tulipwood body is still crazy heavy after it's been thicknessed and shaped.

So I've been a bit listless this week and haven't really made any progress. Not sure why, just a general feeling of "meh". I made myself go to the basement today and finish off the first pass, and.... it's not very even at all. Fortunately (or not depending on how you look at it) we're still at approx. 48mm rather than anywhere near the target of 40-42mm so plenty of time to sort out a better jig to utilise the router planer bit which has now arrived. I'm thinking of 2 angles pieces of rolled steel similar to the jig slappindabass posted above.

That's a better jig than mine, no moving the blank around between cuts and you don't have to use a bit with a bearing. If I have any issues with my shelf solution, or I need to flatten anything in future then I'll make the jig from the video. The video is below if it helps anyone who stumbles across the thread. Still waiting to the planer bit to arrive, so no more progress made.

Nice build! What's the jabba neck pocket method? I'll be doing mine soon and it's the thing I'm most nervous of now the neck is done.

Literally the first time I routed using the fretboard template I bought, I misjudged the router bit depth and took a big chunk out of the template. You live and learn! I'm sure every builder has done it at some point to some degree.

Mobile double post...

I did one of his bass building courses last February, a fretless with a passive MM pickup. There's a build diary I'll grab a link to when I'm not on mobile!