Johncee

Another thumbs up for Terry from me. A fine fellow to deal with.

Thanks - I meant patch to no patch. Thanks to all who replied. Looks like setting up an adjacent empty patch is the way to go!

Recently acquired a B3N and trying to figure it all out....Please forgive me if I'm being a simpleton😀 I'm happy with the straightforward use of the various effects, but struggling with patches. Specifically how to turn them on and off. I can get the patch up and turn individual effects within the patch on and off via the foot switches, but I can't figure out how to toggle the entire patch on and off. I'm sure I'm missing something really obvious, but any help would be appreciated!

Bought Wayne's Sire P7 bass. Lovely guy to deal with, and bass is top notch.

To me, the Yamaha seems a little louder. Comparisons are tricky when levels aren't matched.

Coming from the insanely priced world of violins/violas/cellos I'd say Foderas and other premium bass brands look rather reasonably priced. Fill your boots if you can afford it!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304063911735?hash=item46cb9f1737:g:kowAAOSwAcxg7Egr Kosher?

My USA Sterling is 20.5 mm at 1 and 23.5 mm at 12.

I think this is the "Hamberger" soundpost rather than the Anima Nova, which doesn't have the adjuster wheel. I have no idea how these compare*, but I've spent some time with the Anima Nova for violin and viola and the change in sound with post length/tension was a revelation to me after 20 years or so as a luthier. I'm pretty quick at fitting wooden posts, but even so I find my aural memory is too short to pick up the detailed changes in sound produced by ones of different length. With the carbon fibre posts it's quick and very obvious. * maybe the Hamberger sounds a bit Wimpy. Coat on, taxi called.

"Pressure Drop" Robert Palmer Some lovely playing by Jamerson and Kenny Gradney.

Bought a Beta mk II pedal from Col: mint condition, next day delivery, great communication. 👍

I'd apply it to the whole board, not just where the epoxy is. A little bit of the dye goes an awful long way. Not sure how well the dye will take on the epoxy. Some trial and error needed. Matching texture is as important as matching colour if you want to hide the repair as effectively as possible.

Trick of the trade to cover defects in ebony is to wet sand with thin superglue and 250 grit wet and dry. Takes practice, but works a treat. Fiebing's leather dye works great for staining.

if you have a suitable scraper, I'd be inclined to scrape the existing epoxy back a bit and overcoat with black stuff, as suggested above. Mixing with a black artist pigment would be more effective than ebony dust. Or you can buy ready made black epoxy. Have you got a photo of the damage?