Kongo

I dunno man. I'm not a fan of Metallica but why is it bad he's playing the bass? Yeah he's a "less skilled" player I guess but other than that, how is it "inglorious" that he play it? I still don't understand this logic. It is a legendary bass and Metallica are still pretty big in terms of popularity. Just think, you could get a big buzz for the younger generation to check out the history of it and then they may get into Jaco's music too?

I'd say to try a Spector, but issue is the spacing is narrow and they are mostly 35" scale length. Your search for "the one", or at least a style of bass you feel 100% with sounds much like my journey until I got my ESP LTD F-series 5-string...If only they made 6ers. :-( Other that Spector, it sounds like a custom jobby for you. Either by a luthier or you could build from parts? Get a maple body blank, shape it as you like. As for the neck, either get someone who's good with em to make you one or places like Warmoth are good, again in maple. (I did read it right you like all maple?) Can't fault low, lazy action. Only have one pair of hands, after all. :-D Until you find what you really like it's a pain constantly buying, only to know you will need to sell it again.

Well, musicians aren't always for change, are they? I mean, digital recording has made the process a LOT easier and clearer, yet some still prefer the sound of analogue. Also, in terms of instruments, as soon as they started adding more strings than normal a lot of musicians started clawing their faces off. Imagine if the pick up magnet WAS actually replaced completely? X-D TBH though, I'm fine with how it is at the moment. If it ain't not broke, don't fix it.

That "clack" sound is played by striking the string from the top, instead of the side. Confused? When you pluck the string, check how you do it. Do you; A) go past the string, pull your finger back and go through it? or B] go over the string, and strike it towards the pickup? Option B will get you loads of clack, but it can make notes sound uneven at extreme speeds when using 3-fingers (which Steve doesn't). When I started playing, Steve was my main inspiration. I accidentally got my notes to "clack" once when messing around. I thought it was how you were sposed to play because I never had lessons on this. Because of that, it's become the norm. This may be what you refer to? In which case, just pluck the string from top down. More towards the back than directly above. (This is hard to say in text).

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1349949508' post='1832523'] Hi Kongo, I would happily have a look at it for you but I'm way down South. Not the sort of thing to be sorted without hands on I fear. Good luck in finding someone local, Cheerz, John [/quote] I did think you'd know, I've seen many a post about these solderless kits you do (which I may require sometimes) but figured your distance would be an issue. Travel or shipping would be too much. But this reminds me in looking around who's local. :-)

[quote name='Darkstrike' timestamp='1349655971' post='1828838'] Something very similar happened to me this weekend, installing a Aguilar OBP-3, right down to the crackling wires, though I had no blend. In my case, it was the volume pot itself that was wrecked(possibly overheated when soldering), once I swapped it out for another one I had handy, everything was perfect. [/quote] I have considered that but the pot didn't get hot afaik. (sorry for double post, on phone on the move).

Thanks. I'll have a look. I'd rather someone on here who knows and is passionate about bass than someone who could, but isn't familiar. Example any electrician could follow the diagram, but they won't know the correct sound it should produce when it's done. Not expecting for free either, they'd be paid. I want my pride and joy sounding better than it did, not worse. :-(

[quote name='Maarten_E' timestamp='1348964497' post='1820275'] I've made one last change to the bass. The standard Pickup is replaced by a DiMarzio Model P in cream colour. Bought it for 50€ second hand, and it BLOWS! Had another bass on the workbank as well, a London City body and neck (Precision style), with a hole with could fit a ChiSonic pickup. I've put a OLP-humbucker in it, and it gives a low-end I can only dream of. Pictures will follow soon, [/quote] Musta missed this, it's nice to see someone else making their affinity P-bass into something that exceeds stock Mexican Fenders. X-D I'm yet to fully finish mine but for pickup I chose the DiMarzio Willpower middle. It was based on 3 P-bass using influences, with my own spin. That being Steve Harris, Billy Sheehan and Phil Lynott. I will warn, I built it to have obscene power, so if your looking for a more trad sound I'd avoid the Willpower. You only need to touch the string gently to get a note out. :-)

Hey dudes, thanks for the replies. Lemmie give some feedback. [quote name='MarkBassChat' timestamp='1349595180' post='1827967'] TonePump is a preamp with a very strong signal. If you get weak signal, there must be some wiring mistake. Check it again with the wiring diagram. The trick is that every single wire has to be connected properly, not 99% of them . If you cannot do it on your own, find someone in the neighbourhood who can fix it. Mark [/quote] That was my thoughts exactly. Having play a Spector Euro I did research into what made them tick, other than the wood. The TonePump interested me and my research lead to finding that its output is very hot (so much so later ones, such as mine, have an output trim pot). Although I can't rule it out, I highly doubt the pre-amp is faulty. It must be my wiring. I followed the diagram to a T and all the joints are solid, AFAIK. That being said, I can't tell a cold joint from a normal one. Maybe I had one of those? But I've done it twice now. I think I should just see if a local can sort it out. Anyone who understands this kind of thing should be able to do it but a local repairer who rewired my friends guitar should be a good bet. Hope he's good with pre-amps. [quote name='Stacker' timestamp='1349597058' post='1827984'] That sounds to me like the pre-amp is being bypassed completely. Are any of the EQ controls doing anything? Check your battery connection first: if that's not being engaged then the pre-amp won't work. [/quote] The EQ controls work, at least at the output level it currently is putting out. But yes, they definitely work. :-) [quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1349597143' post='1827985'] If you've got a weedy output (technical term) and you've changed the battery then I'd look at the wiring as Mark suggested. It may be that one of the wires isn't fully connected, but it may also be due to phasing issues - check that the two wires from your pickups are going to the right places on the Pre, otherwise no amount of soldering will rectify the problem. [/quote] I've been thinking phase perhaps. I wired pickups in before where the output was weak...Hmmm but then there were no funny issues. A thing to think of, however. [quote name='dave.c' timestamp='1349610991' post='1828208'] Are they passive pickups or active pickups that require power to them? If they are active and have no power then you will get a weak output from them. [/quote] It's an LTD F-105, it has ESP SB-5's in the bridge and neck, they are passive. I was gonna look into EMG 40DC's but after all of this I think if I do, it's going straight to someone who can wire, which will just up the cost. :-( I think after all of this it's best to take it to someone...This is a cost I did not foresee but the bass is worth it. If anyone can think of someone local to myself who could be of help, please let me know. :-)

[quote name='D.I. Joe' timestamp='1349422623' post='1826029'] I didn't think that the Affinities have Duncan Designed pickups? [/quote] Not those either, just some stock pickups...So yeah. But enough! I cannot get one unless I make room. Shifting anything not high end has become somewhat harder on here...and now I've been given GAS again. :-(

Hey guys. I'm having issues with the output on my bass since changing the pre-amp. Allow me to give a low down and then any advice will be taken on board. :-) So, I decided to change the pre-amp on my LTD F105 from the G&B 2-band to a Spector TonePump. I love these pre-amps and figured as this LTD is the only 2-band they do, why not experiment. It's brand new straight from Spector themselves. Now then, I took the old pre-amp out, it has a lot more wires than the TonePump, i.e. the usual "white" and "black" where one wire that split into two. Other than that, just more wires that go to it's own treble and bass pot, which were also removed as the Tonepump comes with pre-wired bass and treble. I got the wiring diagram from the Spector site on wiring a volume/blend combination, traced all wires to make sure this G&B pre-amp wasn't piggybacking anything and when all was said and done, taking it out and putting the Tonepump in would be straight forward. At least I thought so. I took it out and got to putting the Tonepump in. Everything was connected. I was getting a signal so I thought ok, lets go test. Tightened everything up, plugged it in and...such a weedy sound came out. Even with the EQ fully boosted. These also come with a trim pot, so I made sure the output on the pre itself was up, and it is. No difference. Time was not on my side so I came back to it the next day. I re-soldered a couple of joins just in case. Tightened everything back up again. The output is a bit better, it's audible now but still weak. It doesn't even engage my compressor on it's most sensitive setting it's that weak. Also there's a slight distorted breakup in the low end, not the nice kind you get from these pre-amps, this is unwanted distortion, like a cheap fuzz box. If it helps, I've also noticed crackles if I move the wires and the volume pot seems to make a "swoosh" sound when I turn it. I'm thinking perhaps a ground issue but I can't trace it for the life of me. One last thing, the battery was new (Duracell) but just in case I changed it to check and it's still the same, so it can't be that either. Is it perhaps loosing juice somewhere? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks. :-)

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1349368835' post='1825409'] A MIM Precision is hardly a turd though! [/quote] This. TBH, other than price and saying you own one, sometimes there's no difference between a MIM and MIA...Yes I said that, yes from experience and I will NOT take it back. :-P If you want power and sensitivity in a pickup...DIMarzio Willpower. I have one in my DIY P-bass and I don't think I'd ever choose anything else.

Stop telling me how good it is! Bah, must sell my Squier Jazz V (Affinity, apparently) to make room...as I never use it. This, although it has the same electronics, it has the aesthetics I find pleasing, and the headstock will carry weight due to those tuners...Plus, y'know, Maple fingerboard MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!

This would be most interesting. Not enough info on Japanese instruments of this ilk, I find. I have a series II TRB 6-string, dated 1998. I figured these would be made for Jazz and Fusion musicians...But the tone is so damn aggressive it's perfect for my play style and despite being a behemoth in size, it easier to play than a 4-string. I'm starting to tire of the orange finish it has, however...It's not neutral enough.

Holy hell! When did they start making those in 5-strings? Only reason I never got one was because I didn't need a 4-string. It's even got the proper classic 4-over-1 config I adore with the huge tuners!!! ...I want one!

Both Yamaha and Ibanez punch above their weight even in the beginner area. I'd personally go more towards the Yamaha as they tend to last and are more robust than an Ibanez but then again, Ibanez basses are usually sleeker. That being said, both will play real well. My 1st bass was a Yamaha RBX170. I ran it to the ground but I tell ya, with the pickups and 24 frets it did anything a 4-string can do and then some.

[quote name='Chris Horton' timestamp='1349022290' post='1820770'] I would highly recommend checking out the Yamaha TRB6ii bass guitars. They are just fantastic instruments for the money with massive tonal possibilities [/quote] This. My best 6-string is a Yamaha TRB6II. After that, Ibanez BTB cater well for what you are after, and these days come with very fancy woods, electronics and thru-necks. As for the ESP LTD, you can't really go wrong. For some reason, being a B-series, those are 34" scale. Doesn't seem to effect the playability however.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1348995542' post='1820369'] Maybe the Fender ethos of "mass production, bolted together in a factory" shows that a five string is more than just a four string with an extra string added? I suspect that many of the other manufacturers (the ones usually regarded as having decent B strings) have actually re-designed their instruments as fivers rather than just adapted their four string designs. Or maybe I'm just being naive? [/quote] That's the way I see it. 5 / 6-string basses are more than just a 4-string with another string slapped on, especially the low-B. Sometimes it's the pickups also. You'll want something with a little more power for that string and IMO trad pickups don't quite cater for that, especially ones with the small pole pieces, the Low-B travel is too large. This is in no way a diss to Fender because I love their 4-string basses, but I don't think they make good V's. At least, not very often does one come out well. The headstock doesn't help. It's straight and has noting to pull the strings down more often than not. Which brings me to this; the only good Fender V I played had a string tree for every string, including the low-B, I think that may have helped.

[quote name='Hobbayne' timestamp='1348778726' post='1818200'] Its usually changing up to a heavier gauge that puts more strain on the neck. [/quote] Indeed, but remember this is a two way thing. Less tension from the strings will make the truss rod's tension greater. I'd wager you may need to loosen it, if anything. Depends on your action. If it's low, you may find it might fret out.

Make of string will cater a lot to this. I've broken one of my basses playability once trying different strings. Never again. Scale length by science says longer is better, but the best Low-B I ever had was on an Ibanez RD405, which I sadly no longer own. That was a 34" scale. That being said, Fender still use the old tried and tested designs, but if I may be so bold I think they make better 4-string than 5-string basses. That;s just IMHO, however. I don't like the B-string on my Jazz V.