TDM

I love the spoon and whisk.

[quote name='jake_tenfloors' post='802597' date='Apr 11 2010, 01:44 PM']oooo im not a teenager soon so best post Not posted in here in a while so heres the rig KSD protoJ with EBS preamp Siggery Roadbass V [onboard glockenklang preamp ordered (:] Bassix EUB All into an EBS Microbass ---> Bergantino IP112 Next purchase is going to be the extension speaker for a bit more volume. But i've never been so GAS free![/quote] Aha! So that's where that Siggery went! I was wondering who had it after Josh sold it because originally we had a trade lined up but we both decided to sell instead. Let me know if you ever decide to sell it I sold the orange Spector a while back and bought a green one: I also briefly owned a Rebop 5, but that's gone too

I played a Status bass a while back and there was a lot of "zing" even though the strings were relatively dead. Spectors, especially the old all-maple ones, are generally pretty bright sounding.

Other than preamp/pickups I think it's little details like neck profile, neck/body join contouring, fretboard radius, fret size, no. of frets. The things that aren't really immediately noticeable from afar but make a big difference to playability.

Actually, I think the Bass Centre did a neck finish strip (you can see the round edge where the paint is supposed to be) but I guess the rest has flaked off since.

[quote name='silddx' post='800187' date='Apr 8 2010, 08:42 PM']Second pic is a 404 but the first one just shows a small circle of missing paint, I thought you meant it was coming off like it had leprosy. Take the wedge. Do the frets yourself, it's easy. Get the highly prized JAN1 fitted properly, or again, do that yourself. Think about patching up the finish. You don't really want natural wood do you? It looks so horribly musicianly. My other issue is you have now strongly implied you would prefer a 4 string, which further compounds my thought you were after a bargain to sell on.[/quote] Fixed. I can assure you that I intended for this to be a fix-up-and-have-a-bass-with-character (what a mouthful ) project. Please don't make assumptions about me based on my ramblings.

I've contacted the seller to ask for a refund to see what he says. I'd rather get the money back to put towards a Thumb NT4 or something. Rich: I don't expect the seller to refund me the money to get the finish done as that's just unreasonable. But if I get a refund I do expect it to cover getting the frets to "very good condition" and the neck "straight" as described and for the other issues he neglected to mention, ie the replaced and poorly refitted nut (which is ~30 Euros delivered from Thomann) Slidx: I try not to exaggerate problems, but I do scrutinize. Here are some pics of the paint, or lack thereof! [url="http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/4486/p10007174487508.jpg"]http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/4486/p10007174487508.jpg[/url] [url="http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4672/p10007185235589.jpg"]http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4672/p10007185235589.jpg[/url] Budget Bassist: I bought the bass aware of the paint issues. I can't expect any compensation for that but I'm just making the point that if I do keep it a lot of money (regardless of who's it is) will need to go into it.

Update: The guy has emailed me back: - He assures me the fretboard is Ebony (Am I going crazy? I have two slotted Ebony fretboards on my shelf along with a Jackson guitar that has a Ebony fretboard - looks and feels [i]nothing[/i] like what's on this) - The original JANII was replaced with the Brass nut - £100 refund I'm not sure what to do at this point. £100 barely covers the work I'd want done at minimum, which is a nut replacement, setup (and possible a fret level). And I'd have to shell out more than that to strip the finish to get the bass the way I'd really like. In the interest of being nice to the guy I could just take the refund and try and sell the bass on to get my cash back. Do you guys reckon £650 would be a reasonable price for it? If not, I think I will get a full refund. Even if the fret/neck info was given to me in an email instead of the description I hope it's still within my rights to send it back on the basis that the fretboard is wenge and not Ebony.

IMO Rics have slightly odd ergonomics but nothing can compare to their tone, though.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm overwhelmed by the number of replies to this within just a few hours! I guess it's now just a case of waiting to see what, if anything, the seller says. Hopefully push won't come to shove with this!

Beware of Paypal chargebacks. Did the package have tracking?

[quote name='throwoff' post='799148' date='Apr 7 2010, 08:01 PM']Don't want to sound harsh but the fact your reading that much into it seems like perhaps your just entirely unhappy with it. It seems your now finding fault with everything on the bass. Im really not criticising, its a natural reaction when your dissapointed with something. Personally I am not 100% the nut needs changing, in fact the JAN original is quite desirable now days and still offered as a custom option on new Warwicks. I think it just needs adjusting back into place. Fret's probably need a change rather than a crown but thats just my opinion, as for the refinish hmm I never know with a solid finish like that, I can understand why you would want natural oil but its a big job and you never know whats underneath! EDIT - Also serial number?[/quote] Actually, other than the amazing tone, the other main reason I like this bass is the Sims stuff. I've always wanted something with LEDs (Even if it's just a novelty) and it's also a massive coincidence that the inlays happen to be my initials I am just a very critical person in general. For example, my Spector is probably the best bass I've played/owned yet the first thing I noticed after getting it was the slightly sloppy inlay work. The current nut seems to be narrower than the neck at that point, not as annoying as the gap but still a bit annoying none the less. Where is the serial number located? I agree with you about the refinish, but the finish has chipped off all over the place and being a Warwick I'd hope they would use reasonably nice bubinga, even for solid colours Can any other Warwick owners recommend any luthiers they trust to do this sort of work? If there is nobody else out there who is particularly knowledgeable about Warwicks I'll probably get the work done by Jon Shuker, as he is very local and he has done great work for me in the past. EDIT: Has anybody had any experience with Jack Phillips of [url="http://www.guitarmender.com/Repairs.html"]Black Dragon[/url] guitars? He claims to be the country's dedicated Warwick repair guy and he was the one who quoted me £100 for the refinish. I'm not convinced by how good his work may actually be though.

Thanks for the info. You are the fountain of all Warwick knowledge Jon did actually mention that we *might* be able to get away with just a recrown but the frets are pretty low (probably the lowest of all the guitars/basses I've ever played) and they'll only get lower with a recrown. The inlay was done by Sims - it's actually in their gallery. Admittedly it's not a great quality inlay. You can't see it in the pictures but there is a lot of filler and the MOP itself wasn't cut perfectly. I paid £750 for it all in. A recrown, nut replacement with a JANIII and setup will cost ~£100 with Jon doing the work and he seems to be below average pricing wise. Add to that another hundred to get it refinished in oil (I've had experience with oil finishes myself, but having seem how many wires there are in the control cavity I'm not too sure I can reassemble it!) I think it might not be too worth it.

I don't want to jump to any conclusions about lying. I think Rich might be right in saying he just didn't know. In the original listing the fretboard was also advertised as being Ebony and the body Bubinga Pommelle, whereas in actuality it's wenge and ordinary bubinga. Regardless I need to get some/all my money back. If I get it all back I'll probably try to track down a [i]nice[/i] Thumb 4 NT because I love the sound of Thumbs.

The switch is for the LEDs/Laser. I read somewhere that Thumb 5 NTs from that year came with brass nuts, wenge necks and fretboards but they changed to the black nuts, ovangkol necks and ebony fretboards right around then too so there are both types from that year. I've also heard that Warwick use odd "pyramid" fretwire but I don't see how it's beneficial in any way to have frets so flat that it doesn't intonate. I've played a few Warwicks before and none of them had frets as flat as this.

[quote name='Rich' post='799072' date='Apr 7 2010, 07:00 PM']Yes, true, if an LP advertised as having no headstock breaks turned up with a broken headstock, that would very definitely be 'not as described'. Well, it'd be an out-and-out lie But having read the advert (I think I found the right one), it makes no mention of frets or action or neck relief or anything. It could be possible that he just never saw these things as problems... or indeed, had never noticed them at all? OK, so you're right in seeking some form of redress in terms of a refund, but there's no actual misrepresentation in the advert. I hope all the things can be easily (and relatively cheaply) sorted, because there's a bloody nice bass lurking in there somewhere..! [/quote] I contacted the seller before buying and he said: [quote]The bass was made in 2002 The dings, scratches and cracks are ONLY in the paint finish, the bass is very sound. The frets are in very good condition and the neck is straight. Yep, the inlay and all LED work was done by Sims, The inlay work is still on their website in their custom gallery. The eye hole screws were put in by Chandler guitars in Richmond.[/quote]

They are big eyelet screws, professionally installed by Chandler guitars, apparently. The original recessed straplocks were drilled through and the eyelet screws put in. The bass even came with a pair of carabiners!

[quote name='budget bassist' post='799023' date='Apr 7 2010, 06:18 PM']It may need a refret (or just get them crowned?) but truss rods can become tight if they've not been moved in a while, get a pro to set it up, i think that's all it really needs. And the nut is about 1mm away from the end of the fretboard? it's probably just moved a little, as those nuts just come right out. I think you're making a fuss over nothing...[/quote] Regardless of how easy, or not, something is to fix, I think I have every right to complain about inaccurate descriptions from sellers. Overcomplicated comparison alert : If you bought a Les paul and it turned up with a broken headstock, despite being advertised as "great condition, no headstock breaks" you'd be pretty unhappy wouldn't you? It's not a case of "It'll only cost you £50 to get the headstock glued back on by a luthier", it's a case of you receiving an item that wasn't accurately represented in the listing.