vincbt

Thanks for the tips. I got a similar reply about how they use different supplies and are not sure about what screws my bass mounts so it’s not possible to send replacements, so I’ll get going with the wd-40 and/or the drill and try a few options, I should have some Gotoh parts in the drawer so hopefully those fit my bass too

Really terrible loss. I’ve seen them live several times and, like them or not, they were always a very tight band and up there with the best in terms of live performances. His energy and his relationship with Dave were undoubtedly a big part of it all and you have to wonder if this could spell the end of FF as we know them..

Just reopening this thread to confirm I had the exact same issue on my Limelight built in December 2021. I was told they have indeed changed the method they use to relic their metal parts but when I tried to adjust the action today none of the grub screws would move and two broke in the process. The intonations screws at least seem to move freely. I'll email Mark and hopefully he'll be able to help, if not I'll get back to get some advice on where to find some replacements!

Another one that just came up, the pickguard looks a bit odd, at least when it comes to the cutout to access the truss rod, but otherwise in decent shape https://reverb.com/item/51671819-1973-fender-precision-sunburst-rosewood-fretboard-ohsc

Ah thanks, you are right I had missed the alnico pickups in my attempt at translating. Then yes definitely pricey He also claims the case is original, but would need to be seen.. Not worth the trip

Just came across this Precision from 1971, not far from me. The price seems to be on the high side but does it otherwise look original? It doesn't seem to have visible stamps to date it properly? I could go and see it in person but can't make out if it's worth the trip. https://reverb.com/item/43769619-fender-precision-bass-1971-sunburst Thanks in advance

As some of you know, by now I've had a fairly long journey in search of the Warwick bass that really works for me. I started out with a cheap passive Corvette with ash body (and slightly twisted neck it turned out), then moved that on in part exchange for a Thumb bolt-on, which was frankly great and was sold here only because I wanted to try the NT version and @Cosmo Valdemar was turning 40 at the right time. I then had Thumb NT5 for a while, but I realised my use of the 5th string is very limited and I don't like the string spacing, so on we go. Having just sold that bass to @Homelander, today I picked up a Warwick Thumb from ‘88 in great condition. The neck feels completely different from the previous models I've had and it's generally quite light and well balanced. The previous owner swapped the original EMG pickups with EMG JAX, but everything else looks original, based on very helpful advice from @Kev @DrDrill and @warwickhunt. All my previous Wicks had MEC so I can't compare them exactly but the sound is very punchy and clear. The only thing left now is to decide whether to swap the gold hardware for black, but this one is not leaving me any time soon!

Not sure, by now it's got too many non declared red flags to pick it up without inspecting it and trying it in person... I'm sure it's a cracking bass but it pays to be forthcoming and flag upgrades / changes from the start, as people do on this forum

Thanks, your comment on the enlarged output route made me look back and check as closely as possible the output jack. Something doesn't look right there, as if they had covered a hole. I'll give this a pass and wait until I find a bass I can go and see in person in my area.... Thanks again, you saved me an expensive one

Thanks guys, very useful! The power thing is meant to be using the hole they made in the plastic cover, no idea exactly how but it doesn't sound like someone would want to use. Warwick did get around to installing USB plugs at the back but that's a very different story...

Photos added

Great timing for this thread as I am going through the exact same question and considering getting a fretless. Is it feasible to keep playing fretted while also learning fretless or does getting a fretless means locking the fretted basses in their box for a few months, or at least until things start to click?

Hoping to pick some knowledge from the Warwick experts on the forum. I am looking at a second hand 1990 Thumb from a pro seller quite far from me. They can ship, but I wanted to spot any issue before taking the plunge if I can. The bass looks pretty good, the only mod I've made aware of is the installation of a plug to power the active pre-amp via an external power adapter. I haven't seen the cavity of a model from that age to compare, so wanted to confirm this mod shouldn't have made any unnecessary mess with the circuits and perhaps it can just be removed if not used? The plastic cover can be replaced easily so that's ok. Thanks in advance!

Given the price I would also give this one a check. I would have take in if I could and when I checked it was still available

I found myself in a very similar position last year. Eventually, given my knowledge of vintage instruments is not solid enough and I was worried about consistency I decided to spend roughly the same money I would have spent on a 70s Fender on two basses. I bought a used 2013 American Standard P bass that plays great and came with custom shop pickup as stock, and a Limelight ‘63 P bass that gives me the vintage feel in the exact finish and specs I wanted. I still find myself looking at 70’s Fender but I think this was a good compromise for me

I tried to “register” this bass on the Fender website. It could be just stock photos but they think US18077829 is a maple neck. Otherwise unfortunately both serials bring up roughly the same instrument.

No shortage of strap buttons on that one...