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warwickhunt

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Everything posted by warwickhunt

  1. [quote name='artisan' timestamp='1365861683' post='2045314'] i can meet you tomorrow sometime [/quote] Are you in the Newcastle area tomorrow?
  2. [quote name='molan' timestamp='1365805713' post='2044911'] You can be so harsh John I think the shop took this bass in as a part exchange and were told it was rosewood by the owner who'd had it some time. Generally they wouldn't take something apart that's been bolted together for a long time for fear of woods moving around and unsettling the general feel and action. I have a feeling they will stand corrected and update their policies in the future [/quote] Fair comment. It is a bit lazy not to look at a fingerboard and decide for yourself BUT saying that I'm not doing it commercially (contrary to indicators ) and I'm sure they have more pressing matters than to check detail that customers give them.
  3. [quote name='Fuzzbass2000' timestamp='1365773601' post='2044310'] My favourite Jazz.... and no routing under the scratch plate (if I remember correctly) if you want to do the Jaco "no scratch plate" thing. [/quote] Correct, no routing BUT it has a large 'RW' stamped into the wood to ensure the unscrupulous don't try and pass the bodies off!
  4. Yes seen that 2nd one a few times, such a shame that the jack socket was butchered! If I was buying a vintage Warwick and paying over the going rate, I'd want it to be pretty original (refret doesn't bother me, nor would dirt or 'some' dings) and any non-reversible mods would be a big negative... shame!
  5. The nut adjustment is simply a case of removing the strings from the slots and using a suitable screwdriver; screw in/out the individual saddle/grub screws. As to how much this needs to be done is simply trial and error based upon your preference and playing style. I tend to screw them in until the string is just about touching the first fret and then simply unscrew it a 180 degree turn until it sits where it feels good and suits your playing style/tecnique. The bridge seems complicated but basically unlock the little locking grub screws that hold the individual saddles in place then adjust those to each other and to match the fingerboard radius; again for me it is a case of getting the E and G strings so that the height adjustment has them just pushing off the 'bed' then the A and D need to be a little higher BUT ensure that you have your intonation adjustment in the ball park (which is the G string being the most extended and then tapering back to the E string being the longest... I realise that is simply a generic setting but it means less adjustments later). When you have a basic camber/height/intonation setting you can use the overall height adjustment of the bridge (two centre hex bolts lock the assembly so slacken those right off until finished). Adjust the 4 long recessed grub screws to set an overall height, which is likely going to need a bit more height on the bass side than the treble. When you have that done lock the bridge down with the centre bolts... Oh and have you remembered to lock the individual string saddles? LOL sounds complex but isn't and makes for very adaptable set-ups.
  6. Quick update to say that the bass will have the binding professionally reapplied (in being done as we speak) before it is sold and no change to the price, I am paying to have that done regardless.
  7. I tried one of these in the 4 string variant at a recent Bass-Bash and it was a lovely thing to play; a lot of instrument for the money and at that weight it has had me wondering on more than one occasion if I couldn't give 5 strings one more try.... Nooooooo, step away from the 5 string! You'll have the right person spot this and snap it up.
  8. Yep. Kev Charlton (Bessie and the Zinc Buckets etc etc) has PMd me and he is available... you'll not find better for a DB playing R&R player!
  9. [quote name='Maze' timestamp='1365068430' post='2034728'] Thanks warwickhunt, but I'm not interested in trades. [/quote] Do you have an accurate weight for your Pro M?
  10. I've messaged that guy about 3 times (it's been relisted that many times) asking questions about the bass (replaced TR cover, why no battery, is the TR OK etc.) and nothing back despite me also translating the messages into German!
  11. Hi Phil. Have you tried putting this on the Bass Bin Facebook page? [url="http://www.facebook.com/groups/nebassbin/"]http://www.facebook.com/groups/nebassbin/[/url] If you aren't a facebooker, just give me a contact number and I'll post it.
  12. Yep, I have a right angled jack and it is worse than useless. Not only does it not mute (sleeve sticking) but on one bass the sleeve manages to partially eject or stops the jack plug fitting the socket securely.
  13. [quote name='PaulWarning' timestamp='1365688841' post='2042951'] as far as I'm concerned loopers are no different from someone using pre recorded backing tapes, don't like them at all [/quote] Hmmm not as easy as that! The player has to play their grooves/loops live and simultaneously hit the record, so it takes a deal of skill to be able to get it right (hit the start or stop a fraction late and your loop is out of time)..
  14. [quote name='Kev' timestamp='1365665783' post='2042444'] Gorgeous, great price for what I'm sure is an excellent bass. Would love to have a play on her to compare to my 90' model [/quote] Cheers Kev, you'd need to make the comparison quick as there are several folk interested... saying that it may end up in a Galaxy near you!
  15. [quote name='Enzo' timestamp='1365646040' post='2042354'] I think in '87 John Diggins was already quite busy building his JDs to be helping Warwick with designs Spectacular bass, I own one that could be a twin of this and it's one of the best basses I ever owned. [/quote] Ooops, I'd actually just been offered a JD bass as part ex for my Ric when I was typing this thread... brain not fully engaged! Substitute Davis for Diggins.
  16. Manufacturer: Rickenbacker Model: 4003 Year/serial number: 2004 / 04 40824 Country of origin: USA Body: Maple Neck: Maple Fingerboard: Rosewood Pick-ups: Ric x2 Preamp: N/A Hardware: Ric Finish: Black Case/Gigbag: Original Ric Hardcase Extras: N/A Weight: 9lb 10oz Positives: It's a Ric! Negatives: It's a Ric! Price: [s]£1100[/s] £1000 [url="http://s54.photobucket.com/user/warwickhunt/media/RickyApril20131_zps153ec0a3.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s54.photobucket.com/user/warwickhunt/media/RickyApril20132_zps627baa4d.jpg.html"][/url] Background A friend asked to trade his Ric for a pair of my basses (I am aware that Rics have a loyal following and my basses weren't likely to sell in a hurry so ‘in principle’ I agreed); the trade was completed on the understanding that I could find a buyer for the Ric first. I initially advertised this on Basschat and a BCer agreed to buy the Ric then subsequently had a change of heart after I had done my side of the deal with my basses; this leaves me with this Ric to sell. [url="http://s54.photobucket.com/user/warwickhunt/media/RickyApril201313_zps80795a69.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s54.photobucket.com/user/warwickhunt/media/RickyApril20136_zpsac58683f.jpg.html"][/url] The bass is a genuine Rickenbacker as is the case. There are no known faults with the bass (that isn't Estate Agent speak for ‘there is a fault but I'm just going to deny it later’), however, if you are after a gleaming 'new' bass then this is unlikely to be the one for you. The bass has been gigged extensively by my mate for approx 9 years (he thought it was 5-6 but serial number puts it in the 40th week of 2004) and as such it has wear. I'll go into detail about anything that I have seen with the bass and I'll probably paint a none too glowing picture but I will try and be as honest and thorough as I was when I described the bass to the previous prospective buyer. The frets have loads of life left in them, though they may need a bit of a polish/clean up due to a little discolouration. The fingerboard lacquer is undamaged and crack free. Tuners are all Ric stamped, all work with no bent shafts or stiff operation. Whilst on the subject of hardware; some of the legend/lettering on the output plate has rubbed off over the years, some is still visible though (as is the serial number). The front pup adjuster screws are a bit corroded but I've adjusted the pup (after setting the action) quite easily so they patently work fine, just look rusty. Also, there is discolouration and the finish is missing off the polepieces of the neck pup, the pup works fine and the pic makes it look worse than it is. All electrics are working as they should with no crackly or scratchy pots and the selector works no problem. I've already tweaked the truss rods to ensure they are OK. On tweaking the truss rods (both tensioned up equally to get the neck with a bit of relief) and getting the action back to my kind of levels I also noted that I had to take the bridge adjusters right down but it isn't a problem as the dampers still adjust down further so the strings ring clear (needs new strings IMHO as these seem to be very cheap/dead). There is a single 1mm ding in the rear that goes through the paint but it is very small and not really visible from a couple of feet away. A small scuff on the front of the headstock (check the pics) defo not through the paint or really even visible unless tilting in the light. There are 2 pin head sized dinks on the very tip of the headstock but I'd be amazed if the new owner didn't add to them the first time they were in the vicinity of a drummer's cymbals. What I thought was a 2mm ding on the very back edge of the lower bout of the body actually turned out to be wear from where the lead must have been passed through his strap (does that make sense), it is very slight but smooth and not an impact ding. [url="http://s54.photobucket.com/user/warwickhunt/media/RickyApril201312_zps8198f2b8.jpg.html"][/url] Whilst on the subject of wear to the paint, I have to confess I thought the paint on Rics would be mega thick but the paint is almost nitro-cellulose thin (I’ve had conflicting opinions off two BCers as to how thick Ric paint is), tilted in the light, the entire bass reveals the wood patternation beneath the paint. One Bcer on seeing the pics thought that the bass was hand-painted; I can assure you that it is NOT! However, the finish remains an enigma and I'm going to suggest that we 'assume' that the bass has been refinished in what appears to be cellulose. [url="http://s54.photobucket.com/user/warwickhunt/media/RickyApril201311_zps6f2a2382.jpg.html"][/url] When the bass arrived to me it had some of the binding lifting, I have had this professionally reapplied but as with anything that is done after leaving the factory it means that the bass isn't mint (see the pics as I am making this sound worse than it is). TBH if the bass was mint I'd hope to get a good few hundred more but as it stands (a gigging bass), I think it can't be far off what it is worth. Trade offers would need to be something that I would want to keep, so unfortunately no heavy basses and ideally a vintage Warwick (Streamer would be perfect).
  17. Bites down hard on side of hand... no... the OCD made me do it... '[s]Your[/s] doing it wrong' 'You're doing it wrong'
  18. Extended Range Bass - ERB i.e. more range than the trad 4 string, likely to be a 6 string (but not exclusive to).
  19. [quote name='HazBeen' timestamp='1365612971' post='2041839'] How in the heck has this not sold yet? Bumpage on me [/quote] I have someone local who has chewed his fingernails down to the wrist trying to sell his SWR Redhead in order to get the funds to buy my Dingwall but times are tough for high end gear!
  20. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Many thanks. [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Dingwall still available.[/font][/color]
  21. [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Manufacturer: Warwick[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Model: [/font][/color][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thumb (JD)[/font] [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Year/serial number: 87 - G970[/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Country of origin: W Germany[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Body: Bubinga[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Neck: Wenge/Bubinga Neck-Thru[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Fingerboard: Wenge[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Pick-ups: EMG[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Preamp: [/font][/color][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]MEC[/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Hardware: Warwick/Schaller. Bridge is adjustable for height/intonation/string spacing[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Finish: Oil[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Case/Gigbag: Warwick Rockcase (hardcase) [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Extras: Straplocks[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Weight: 9lb 14oz [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Positives: Excellent condition (especially considering the age). Very slight superficial marks on the body and a few wear marks on the pups. The D string tuner 'washer' (the plastic insert surround, see headstock front pic) is cracked but not broken away and doesn't affect the tuner/bass in any way; again replacements can be had.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Negatives: Battery cover here but clip snapped off (will be secured with tape), not uncommon and readily available.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Price: £1200[/font][/color] Not much that I can add to the above, if you know your Warwick history, you'll know that these early Thumbs differ from the later models in having a 1 piece bridge (Warwick branded Schaller 3D), sculpted headstock rear, slimmer necks and come with various pup manufacturers (the JDs had EMG). JD refers to John Diggin who worked with Warwick to design the bass and the first production run had the JD logo on the truss rod cover. No problem at all with neck dive on this bass (I've not tried a NT Thumb that did so not sure where the story of neck diving Thumbs came from), it balances perfectly. No crackly pots or iffy electrics. Since these pics were taken I've given the frets a good polish and set the bass up (no probs with the truss rod) with a nice low action. The bass comes with an 'as new' Warwick hardcase (I think there is one up for sale at the moment on BC for £100+) but I can supply a period correct gigbag if you'd prefer. I'd be interested in a trade for a Streamer bass (don't think anything else would float my boat at the minute but you could try me) but it would need to be sub 9lb in weight and to make a straight swap it would need to be a vintage Streamer so certainly no later than this bass; though I would accept cash added to the deal if condition wasn't as good or if it was a slightly later bass (for an absolute corker of a bass then I'd add a bit of cash). Price includes delivery to a UK mainland address.
  22. [quote name='JayPH' timestamp='1365596090' post='2041518'] For this service does the recipient have to sign? I don't want somebody claiming they havent received the bass and doing a Paypal scam [/quote] I can only speak for the Interparcel/UPS service that I have used but yes.
  23. [quote name='KevB' timestamp='1365594785' post='2041478'] If it is a valuable bass you need to check on the smallprint of the courier to make sure the general insurance they quote is applicable to musical instruments. Some companies make instruments exempt or only insure up to a nominal amount of £200 or so. [/quote] ParcelForce are infamous for accepting your increased insurance premium for an instrument but exempting them in their T&C. Interparcel generally only covers up to £50 on the basic price and you need to bump that up to £1000 at an extra premium of about £10 (you can go up in increments below that costing proportionately less)... other couriers are available.
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