Al Heeley

If it was relatively new in good working condition then £500 for that lot would be a great price. However, with no other information available it is not possible to advise.

never come across a more potent preamp - i think combination of the MM preamp and the HB pickup account for 80% of the unique tone quality, the rest is witchcraft

how is the ash finished? Clear seal (polyurethane, nitrocellulose, acrylic?) or wax or tru-oil finished? This will determine best products to clean. How glossy is it? How thick is the coating? That gives a clue as to the finish type.

So do you limit her shoe collection likewise? I think not. Go buy, no-one should be without a Jazz.

Uh oh, "Fantastic clarity and insight" - whenever i hear that sort of phrase connected with cables I can feel my scepticism cloak powering up. I best leave before I get insulting or insulted

Warmoth are really good quality but a lot of money and a long wait. £150 upwards. Mighty Mite make good fender replacement necks - £75 - £100, also see if Axes'r'us have any replacement p-bass necks in. Allparts UK also do replacement necks, around £110. Axes'r'us will do all the other hardware needed for the bass, and it will be pretty cheap. Guitarfetish do some cheap but reasonable pickup copies for guitar and bass, worth a look. If I were you I'd be tempted to rout out another slot for a J-bass pickup midway between the current pickups and the bridge, and turn it into a hybrid.

Wow - thats just so cool - what make/type polyurethane was used to get a good finish and enough adhesion to polished metal?

I would agree wid U Jack - you have the -ve or ground going to all the ground lugs of the jacks and to the DC ground, and to the battery snap -ve (black).

Heh! There will always be inductance, resistance and capacitance in any length of conductive material. Those of you who can recall O-level physics may have learnt about LCR circuits. Santana got PRS to design a little 'sweet switch' in his PRS supposedly to help improve clarity of tone when he used a really long cable on stage. The balance of inductance, capacitance and resistance dies cause some interplay with transmission frequencies so in theory it may be possible to specifically design a cable to preserve mid or high range for a guitar or help preserve lower frequencies for bass. But you'll probably need a good oscilloscope to notice any difference, I would very much douby my ears are good enough to be able to hear anything different. What musicians most want is no drop-off of signal whatever the frequency, bass or lead, rather than paying to use a special frequency-tuned conductive cable. Most amps and instruments have treble and bass controls that can assist with tone shaping. I would not spend £30 to try to achieve this. I would however spend up to £30 on a really good quality robust cable with good quality jack plugs.

[quote name='HollyDTVGE' post='745393' date='Feb 14 2010, 11:29 PM']... it's like i've been blessed with a bottom end that i've never had before.[/quote] Does your bum look big in it?

Well you can aim for tidier wiring, that shouldn't be very difficult to achieve!

Here's the guts

heres the circuit + mods PCB layout pic Courtesy DIYStompboxes.com

no i have not - i just use vero and self etch pcbs for little circuits

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&showtopic=74856&view=findpost&p=741542"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&sho...st&p=741542[/url] looking for an ultimate Tubescreamer

great - that's spot on for attitude, jump in and do it, learn as you go on and never gewt put off by miserable buggers who say its too difficult - thats the best way to learn about stuff, only in my experience trying to debug a complex pedal that has taken up the last week of your life can be soul-destroying! You only learn from your mistakes though.

Thx fox, I printed the graphics out onto an overhead projector slide in reverse then glued it print side down to the enclosure with a thin smear of araldite epoxy. First time I tried that so a bit messy, a couple of crinkly air bubbles but it ain't going anywhere.

Here's the final item using the clipping module. Sonic Kitchen is a Tubescreamer (SRV Special, ex maxxon) circuit with the clipping module added to replace the original two side-by-side diodes, and with an extra input cap on a mini toggle switch which combines a 0.47uF and a 0.047uF (the original) cap. The bigger cap gives a huge extension to the bass range making for some dark grungy overdrive also highly suitable as a Bass guitar distortion pedal. Leave freq on high for the original characteristic Tubescreamer mid-boost, for lead guitar work. The clipping switch works nicely, theres some subtle differences to the distortion characteristics trying out the different modes. A couple of sweet smooth creamy overdrives on the asymmetric, the Ge/Si mix and the smoothing cap setting, as well as some much higher gain, raw distortion tones using the LED settings. Basically 6 overdrives in one, with a huge tonal range extension built in. The ultimate tubescreamer!

jeez - delays and chorus effects are a huge step up from an overdrive and a compresser. I've never been brave enough to attempt anything that complex - you need the ability to make a very accurate good quality pcb or you'll spend hours trying to get it to work.

always admired these, I'm prepared to bid anywhere up to £120

+1 for ferric chloride - keep it as hot as possible or it takes hours and there's more chance of the mask wearing off before etching is complete. I do it in a tray using hot water, floating in a bowl of hot water i can keep topping up from a boiling kettle to stop it cooling.

I think Maplin are very expensive except for enclosures which are reasonable. I get 99% of my components from either Bardwells (online shop) or BobsBitsBox (ebay shop or direct online + paypal). the other 1% I get from taking apart electrical items at work and extracting them from their pcb's witha hot butter knife. Banzai effects in Germany is also a good source of stomp stuff, particularly fine choice of knobs. 3pDT foot switches I get from a hong Kong ebay shop, £11.50 for 3. Never had a duff one yet and I've bought a dozen. I get pots from BobsBitsBox - go for small as possible or you'll struyggle to get everything in an enclosure.

have built a couple cos people told me i must have one in the pedal chain but i never turn them on, they just seem to remove the dynamics from my playing style and why would I want that? maybe if you're into a lot of agressive funk/slap stuff, but I don't do the slappy thang.

[quote name='GazWills' post='738979' date='Feb 8 2010, 03:01 PM']... ‘original 1975 components’ on the website sadly doesn’t sound like ‘affordable’ to me though![/quote]Well really I'd insist on all new comps for that sort of money.

Pondering rewiring on the drive to work - this should simplify the whole thing a bit and cut down on soldering time: