chris_b

[quote name='Musicman20' timestamp='1389265602' post='2332003'] ....To be fair, most amp techs dislike Class D micros.... [/quote] +1 I only buy bass gear based on two criteria: it's reliability record and it's tone. Whatever this amp tec says there are several Ampeg amps that no one in their right mind should buy because, while they might be easy to repair, they have a very high failure rate and let too many players down. My amp tec hates the look of the insides of an SVT3 but says he's never seen a broken one. SVT2 and the SVT might be easy to work on but he had a shop full of them, from the hire companies, needing a service between tours. 99% of amps are built for ease of manufacture. They don't care about the repair guys when they make them so the reliability record in the real world is even more important. TC and the other D class maps seem to have a low score when it comes to breakdowns, so I don't care what they look like under the cover. And finally, since the beginning I've not heard of a TC breaking down. Has anyone had a TC failure?

I reckon I had about 5 mins. I'm still waiting for my other 10!

You're examiner doesn't want to sit through long passages of root playing or repeated bars. You'll get nowhere down that road. If you can play Time Won't Wait like that, then go for it. Good luck.

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1389200027' post='2331270'] ....but spandex don't flap.... [/quote] My sensibly cut spandex trousers do.

I'm surprised this is an issue. I hold the string taught with one hand (usually the right) until the other has tightened the string enough for me to let go. I also find this way helpful in keeping the string straight between the bridge and tuner.

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1389195264' post='2331171'] ....Surely it shouldn't cost [i]more[/i] money to remove an LPF?.... [/quote] And surely the number of components is the least relevant concern to most of us when buying an amp, or anything else for that matter. Unless of course the afore mentioned axe grinding comes into play.

[quote name='Grassie' timestamp='1389184297' post='2330972'] ....but hasn't turned to his right (where I stand) to tell me, and I've had to tap him on the shoulder to ask him.... [/quote] I've had this a few times, so in the end I just stood there and watched them start the intro without me. Anyway, in praise of set lists: I start my bass intro numbers 1 second after the singer has said "thank you". The drummer is the same with his intros. Set lists are used by all big touring bands, the Stones, Bowie, U2, Prince, ZZ Top, Foo Fighters, Muse etc etc, A set list isn't a straight jacket, but everyone knowing what is coming next enables the band to present a seamless show. How is your bass tec going to bring the right bass out if he doesn’t know what the next number is?

You like a product or you don't, end of story, but axe grinding, trolling and general wind-ups was exactly what was going on in TB at that time. The cost and price point of the product wasn't part of the issue and as always is down to what the manufacturer decides the market will support.

.... or an ass, even!

BG didn't start the fuss. A bunch of Talkbass users, seemingly with an axe to grind, made all the noise. The fuss about the power module was laughable, but one good thing came out. The RH750 can run at 2.7 ohms which means that you can run 3 of anyone's cabs. If you want to run a modular rig, (as I did, up to 3 x 112’s) that's a big advantage. The RH750 is as loud as any 750 watt amp on the market so the internal workings are irrelevant. I had one and it was very loud and with good features. I only sold it to fund my Thunderfunk. As with amps of any make the bottom line is are they loud enough and do you like their tone.

[quote name='JazzBassfreak' timestamp='1389138168' post='2330660'] ....If I have it done I want the job done properly and my bass respected the way it deserves.....I don't want the bass just looking like a wreck, I'm looking for slight wear on the contours and a neat smooth finish.... [/quote] So, how much do you want to knock off the value of your bass?

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1389107834' post='2330071'] ....but who regularly plays notes that are long enough for this to matter ?.... [/quote] Me. I don't think that through body stringing is going to aid sustain too much, but in some situations I need to play long notes, and hold them for 2-4 bars or more. I need those notes to sound as good as they can be for a long as I need them.

[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1389107808' post='2330070'] ....however are you using the gain hi to get some grind?.... [/quote] Isn't that what the Drive control is for?

I always thought Leo Fender had a solid reason for every design decision, especially when it came to the unit cost of each instrument. He went to the trouble of putting through body stringing on his Fenders, Musicman and G and L basses, so he must have thought there was a difference that was worth the additional cost. I've done both on my Lakland and I haven't noticed much of a difference.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1389097645' post='2329800'] ....the idea is for the band to set/determine the tone, rather than follow, react to it.... [/quote] +1 We are leading, not the audience.

As the guys on Talkbass are confirming it's NOT a clip light in the traditional sense, so you shouldn't be concerned that this is an indication of a problem with the signal, or your sound. Can you hear any issues with your sound? IME, MM basses can have very hot output but I would just take the Gain down a little. On most of my amps I've found that running the Gain lower and Master higher gets me the sound I prefer.

Sounds like you could base a sitcom on your band.

As far as I know, it is not a clip light. When it's on is not as a result of clipping and you are doing no damage to the amp. That's how I understand it..... what I've read has been as a result of people asking the same question on Talkbass. Drop an Email to Aguilar. They should be able to explain the detail it to you.

Not really. Putting cabs together in modular rigs has an advantage in that the cabs can be used separately on smaller gigs or combined for the larger gigs. Also you'll get more volume and better tone not from running an amp flat out but by using more speakers.

[quote name='BottomE' timestamp='1389016292' post='2328778'] ....Both my 8 ohm cabs are rated at 400 watts each. Do you think that they will handle the shuttle 9.2 safely?.... [/quote] How loud do you play?

All the cabs mentioned so far in this thread are good, even great. But they all sound different enough to have for and against views. I don't do heavy gear so I'd get the CN212, but I'd also keep the NV610 until you've road tested the next cab and decided which way you want to go.

We use a set list and 99% of the time we stick to it. Usually the set list is designed for the gig, so can vary. All the big touring bands plan the set. That's how you put on a professional show. What we play is designed to flow through the set from start to finish. A set isn't a collections of numbers it's a "whole" thing so, unless you're very good at making it up on the spur of the moment, should be planned. Discussing the numbers on stage is very amateurish, arguing is even worse, and makes the band look bad. Why would you want to do that?

I'd spend that amount of money on the best vintage Fender I could find.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1388945674' post='2327953'] ....the amp will probably not be run at full volume so it won't actually matter, but that's a different issue.... [/quote] Pockethammer asked if this rig was workable, and it is, so it's [i]the[/i] relevent issue.

This rig isn't mismatched. If the volume controls are linear and 12 o'clock really is half power then each cab is seeing just over 200 watts, and my guess is that in reality you will be using less than that. In this rig more speakers equals more volume rather than more watts from the amp. My Aguilar TH500 is supposed to have the same power module as the GB 9.2 and I'm loud enough through a good 212 with the master at about 10 o'clock.