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Posts posted by Soledad
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Same, a start-up that was taking great shape, but dumped guitar player for being a t**t - vocals, bass, drums all set... Times like this I wish I played flute or 'cello
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3 hours ago, Zander said:
Whats the weight ?
9Lb dead (+/- an oz say).
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On 25/02/2020 at 16:30, 4000 said:
The Staves. Would have been Lana Del Rey, but she stood me up.
Good call. Saw them at The Dome Tufnell Park wednesday 4th. Had seen them supporting First Aid Kit (Brixton) last autumn and they were really good - notably a killer version of 'Whole of the Moon' which is on YT and well worth a look/listen.
The Staves may be dismissed by some as a folky-hippy thing - so WRONG. Brilliant voices of course, very strong songs and a tasty 4 piece backing (guitar doubling on horn; bass, keys/synths and drums). Live sound was absolutely top-notch, with an excellent drum/bass mix.
Even though they were one sister down, they were powerful, confident and hugely musical. From folk roots they are moving into a much bigger musical space. Fast becoming a serious headliner IMHO.- 1
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excellent as always, very clear, tidy and solid.
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5 hours ago, binky_bass said:
@Soledad Problem solved.
Headache clearing. Tidy 👍
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On 04/03/2020 at 23:08, wishface said:
Is there a reason why you shouldn't rake when playing such lines?
Same. It's a thing I do so it's become hard not to, and I'm wondering how raking would ever slow me down or get in the way when I cross down a string. I'm trying it the proper way (rigidly alternating) and I'm a bit lumpy - but it helps to understand why no raking.
Years ago I studied flamenco and exactly the same thing - fast passages across strings - alternate fingers no matter what. Maybe it's where ultimate precise speed comes from?- 1
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Apart from blowing a grand or more away, what are these actually for?
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Me too - a true fan of the Streamliner 900. Got mine around a year ago having used Aguilar, TC, Trace, Ashdown...
I seriously can't think of a head I would rather have. The valve pre is brilliant, really good progressive control. I thought I may find the eq a bit limiting but with my Fenders (any of em) running EB Cobalts I roll bass back to around 10/11 o'clock, mids boosted at 2.5k, treble same (around 2 o'clock).
Running mine through a GB Neo 8812 (2 x 8" and a ported 12 + horn) - pretty much sublime.These heads are quite good cos they stop you buying stuff👍
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Nice - LPB is the new black
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44 minutes ago, binky_bass said:
New rig... again...
Glorious. Given I'm a bit OCD, tell us why one black cab and one silver?
and a question for @knirirr - like the unlined Jazz, what is it please?
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1 hour ago, Christine said:
The reason I say to check the top surface is because if it isn't parallel it will tend to cause the narrow chisel to clamp on a tilt instead of the bottom surface (back as you rightly say)
agreed 👍
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4 hours ago, Christine said:
Check the chisel itself to make sure the top surface is parallel to the bottom one.
May I add - the one surface that is reference/datum is the back (the non-bevel face). This must be dead true to the stone. You can ignore all other chisel faces and surfaces. So the back face must be dead flat to the clamp and the clamp must be true to the axis of the grinding stone.
I'm more familiar with the Tormek but I think they are about the same. If the chisel is even slightly out of perpendicular, or if it isn't exactly flat to the clamp, you'll get this error. In practice adjust the angle of the chisel in the clamp (tiny amounts mind) and adjust left and right clamp screw (slightly tighten one, release the other to compensate) - in your pic the right screw needs tightening, left off a bit. OR, the chisel needs a tads rotation anti-clock in the clamp.
Basically you are a lot closer than it looks, small tweaks will get you there and narrow chisel tend to be more tricky.edit, SORRY ! - flip that. The bevel is facing camera but when mounted is facing the stone, so I'm back-to-front. Once clamp is mounted on its rail it's the left edge of bevel that is further from the stone. So slight adjustments of left screw tighter, right off a tiny bit, and / or chisel adjusted a tiny bit clockwise. Basically reverse of what I said above. 😮
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Got a used 550 as a back-up recently, really good and the toneprints are ace. I'd say get a used one and try and find one with the 3-way footswitch (mute, print1, print2).
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6 hours ago, Sibob said:
The Flashback is running a Chorus Toneprint, which is actually very good!
Damn right! I went round the houses trying (and buying) various chorus pedals. I have 2 new Boss in their boxes... the TC Classic toneprint Chorus is just what I always wanted (Mari Wilson👍). I run it in a TC BH550 head with the 2 toneprint slots and a 3 way pedal. Very good indeed on the fretless - most of what I use chorus for.
A neat trick I think is pick up a used BH250 for around £100 - gets you a smallish back-up head and a great chorus (or any other single toneprint) solution for 20 quid more than a new Boss... just a thought.- 1
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Totally agree @hooky_lowdown - but the original shown is actually more discoloured than the pics suggest. Some folks put tort on lpb - don't get it myself, and anyways the factory original lpb would be white plate.
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Wondering how it sounds, brightish I'm thinking?
Remember Ian Eyre of Curved Air played one (the DA version) back in early 70s - saw them live and that's the only thing I remember. -
Very tasty. Is the body ash? Don't know if that was a thing on the maple neck basses at that time - just looks a bit like ash.
And that Fender Hypermarket you guys run up there - surely you've hit the VAT threshold by now? -
This is crazy. A near mint deluxe USA P/J, with case and candy and alternative guards. I've just acquired an older passive Special that cost a good bit more than this. Fab bass and a blinding bargain... what's not to like😮
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Was trying to stay out of harm's way this year. Got to February and decided I needed a PJ. There's a really good USA Deluxe for sale on here, but I decided I wanted a passive.
Spotted this at Bass Direct... and next thing it's here. Yet more of Corona's finest.
This one's a '98 Special with std P neck of the period, passive VVT controls.
First excuse the rubbish pics - old phone and too mean to replace.
Now then - really don't know what the previous owner of some 22 years did with this bass... absolutely nothing I suspect. It's like new old stock. He never even opened the poly bag with all the candy in - it's still sealed complete with truss rod key. And there's a clue. So Bass Direct listed it as cleaned and set up. Well, it wasn't set up cos that truss rod has never been touched I think, since it left the factory. Still, all went very well and neck now exactly how I like it, with new EB Cobalts fitted.
So far - really good, sounding quite glorious through my GB900 and PJB 6B cab. It definitely sounds P-like with the front p'up full, back (bridge) off, and then I get a load of interesting sound options including the back p'up funk thing, and a fab scooped both-full + full treble sound. Been a Precision fan for years but never tried a P/J. I think I'm going to like this... and it's very shiny- 4
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On 23/01/2020 at 14:04, BassBus said:
Here's some pics together with my refurbished SB301
Love the fretless, that's the 301 right? I had a BC fretless in around '92 (from The Bass Centre) and it was really good. Traded it there for a Warwick Thumb N/T fretless and a pile of cash... no idea why at all.
Really good basses, fab build quality and materials, nicely 'off the radar' so stupidly good value. -
OK Bromley gang - anyone know rehearsal space locally, Bromley or close surrounding. I know about Dartford and Erith but is there anything more local or even a bit souther as I'm Sevenoaks (2 others are Bromley / Elmstead woods).
Any help gratefully received.
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@gt4ever.... did I not mention a 2EQ Ray in the listing? I thought i did Allow me to shake the dust off for you.👍
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1 hour ago, Merton said:
PS - if you lay the SC horizontally rather than vertically the CTM100 fits fine
Don't do that, the notes come out sideways.
I'm with @acidbass - if you like flats on a P (me too) I'd go a bit hybrid / valvy. My own choice is a GB 900 but there's a decent choice including the MB suggested above.
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Hand Tools
in Build Diaries
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Sorry, been locked up and no-one to talk to... so
Let's talk about planes! They're a bit like basses, you always 'need' just one more. In recent years I've thinned mine a lot but still have around 10 or so (plus all the specialist variants like shoulder planes, rebates, router planes etc etc).
Christine mentioned older Records - mighty fine they are (or can be). Pic below of a Record 'SS' No3 (SS means 'Stay-Set' and they have a 2-part cap iron which I rate highly, some others don't like 'em).
Got this No3 on the Bay for around £30 a few years ago. Added a new Hock iron (the blade / cutter is called an iron or cutting iron) and spent time tuning - total strip down, seat the frog to body properly, flat the sole (when doing this load the plane up, I mean fit 2-part iron, tighten etc so the body is under working load, then flatten with the cutter safely withdrawn back from the sole). Stripped and painted my mucky green brand colour, but if you want to restore the Record blue, get Humbrol or similar 'roundel blue' - it's an amazing match to the original.
This Record is now proper hot and will take 2- 3 thou shaving off cross grain, plus it handles difficult woods (reversing grain) really well.
I do recommend the original 'Crucible Steel' irons on Records, but also the Quangsheng replacement irons - very fair price and excellent steels. The Hock is considerably more expensive but takes a really fine edge.
The wood plane is interesting - again hotted up into a fine panel smoother (technically it's a jack plane). Note the double iron - very hefty forged cutter, supported by an equally hefty cap. Those Sheffield forged cutting irons are truly fabulous - high carbon super-hard and super-fine tool steel forged onto a malleable steel 'back'. You just can't buy planes with cutters like this now, but on the Bay you'll find one for under 20 quid. Seriously those forged irons of old are sublime.
I did a box (boxwood) insert on this one to tighten the mouth a lot. Spent a good while flatting the back of iron back to a polish, and tuning the cap iron so it closes micro-tight onto the iron.
If anyone's interested in planes like me, I'll get some pics of my Sparks handmade planes next - his plane adjusting hammer is visible in pic 1
best go make something now...