prowla

4 hours ago, juanbcn83 said:

Wow, as far as I know he plays with Dingwall now.

 

Curiously my Sandberg is his model, the Enigma 5 strings and I couldn't be happier.

 

In my opinion Sandberg has a "vintage" sound but a little more aggressive, due to the humbucker in the bridge pick up I guess, but is a bass that works for me in every situation.

Yes - I played his Dingwall last weekend at the Bass Bash.

He also brought along his Sandberg (a black fretless) and said he's really not playing it and so was looking to sell it.

I'm not sure if the word it out, but at the SE Bass Bash Chris Childs said he's selling his Sandberg fretless.
I had a quick go on it and it's a really nice bass (but I don't need another fretless).

2 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

 

How wide is the neck on those, should I ever find one at what I would consider a reasonable price?

 

 

I had one; the neck is wider to keep the string spacing.

I would've preferred it to have a narrower neck and closer strings.

I have to say I played another Dingwall recently and it sounded a bit generic.

10 hours ago, Wolverinebass said:

Absolutely nothing. It's a standard 3 pickup Dingwall with active and passive circuit.

8 hours ago, cetera said:

Actually it has a Neve preamp, rather than the Darkglass..... and sounds much better as a result.

And I liked it! 🙂

3 hours ago, Woodinblack said:

 

Whats so special about it?

It was nice to play.

He says that he just takes that along to sessions now rather than 4 basses.

It's got a block of three pickups which can be switched into various combinations.

29 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

 

Maybe that was my problem with the Dingwall - I never found the great sound!

I'm thinking about buying one like Chris Childs'.

3 hours ago, Sean said:

Nooooo. Don't! We'd have to do a 50 page thread on recutting brass nuts!

Hehe - it's just you mentioned Ian Hill...

20 minutes ago, Sean said:

 

I’m sure Gary will chime in soon but, yes. The Desert Island is what I think is "Ian HIll", my Peacock is the more standard “meaty” carve. The CRFM I’ve got is skinnier than the IH (but not Doug-like, more like the Tobacco Kramer) and I’ve got a 2018 LX EX (Zebra) that is like a baseball bat. Fortunately, I get on with most profiles unless they're super skinny or ridiculously big. I don’t think I’d get on with a DW.

Is it tuned BEAD?

37 minutes ago, Phil Starr said:

Orange did but it is slightly bonkers for a portable cab. You get the cost and weight of a 2x12 but the output of a 1x12.

 

Cab size is slightly more complex. You can increase the size of the cab and change the tuning but it get's increasingly hard to have a flat response. That's the short version btw, I'm happy to do a longer explanation but it would be moderately technical and potentially very long. Worth a question in amps and speakers maybe but a bit ao a thread de-rail. Good to meet you on Sunday btw

Sure - just thinking aloud about how many cabs we could fit on a stage!

Maybe a bass horn too!!!

(Only kidding; yep, great to meet!)

One more for the roll of honour: @police squad for providing the PA.

It was really quite participatory this event, which is rather excellent on the part of all involved!

Oh, and the things like tidying up, stacking the chairs, winding my mains extension leads back onto their reels didn't go unnoticed! 🙂

I'm just tucking into a slice of cake to round off lunch...

FYI, the way we sorted out the cost of the CostCo run was I charged the takings pro-rata for what was used (eg. 50% of the cost for half a cake having been scoffed) and then what was left remained mine (including the slice I've just had).

A piece of cake, so to speak!

There were a load of cups/plates/wooden cutlery left over, so they've got to @NancyJohnson's for future use; they now belong to the charity and will either appear at next year's event or other suitable activities.

47 minutes ago, Phil Starr said:

If anyone wants to build the 8" design it is here. It works as it is but we are tweeking the design by a couple of mm to make panel cutting a bit easier. the designs should be tweaked in the next few days.

 

Heaven knows how BassChat chose a pic of a different cab to show

 

 

 

It'd be interesting to see smaller drivers in larger cabs, ie. is the bass response due to the cab size or the driver.

There's also the question of isobarik loading - I think Orange did that in some cabs.

Yes - a big thanks to @Mike Brooks: hosting those talks was a big contribution to the success of the day.

That was a fun day out!

Very enjoyable speaking by the speakers (and about the speakers!).

I got to meet some great folks and play some rather nice basses. 
 

I thought it had already been figured out that shimming wasn’t going to do anything, because the neck and bridge both sit on the same plank of wood; it’s a bit like a dog chasing its tail.

As far as options go, it’s been suggested to check whether the plank is flat or is bending (either around the truss-rod cutout or the pickup bay); if it isn’t flat then that’s probably the underlying issue. 
The option of lower bridge saddles might be worth investigating. 

2 hours ago, Maude said:

This is the back of the neck on mine. I think the issue is the actual cutout for the truss rod adjuster. The two front fixings are 65mm back from the heel, the cutout goes right through the neck, the 'T' section where the nut is is probably about a third of the neck width removed, the fretboard ends about 30mm away so adds no bracing. If the two fixings are holding it down but the strings are trying to pull it up, the weakest point is the truss adjuster cutout. If the neck is bending here then that would account for the nut looking like it changes angle the more tension is put on it. 

@BigRedX suggestion of putting two extra fixings in as far forward as possible would probably alleviate this. 

 

Edit, just to add that if a shim was placed at the bridge end and then all four neck fixings tightened then this would add even more bend into that weak area as the heel pushes against the body, hence my suggestion earlier of shimming both ends (one more than the other) to introduce the angle without the heel becoming compressed. 

 

Ah yes - that does suggest that the truss-rod cutout is another area of weakness.

Perhaps the earlier comment regarding graphite/fibre inserts along the length of the "plank" could work.

Yes, I'd agree that shims at the end could make it worse.

Indeed I was wondering if the counter-intuitive option of putting a shim midway(!) might work.

1 hour ago, Supernaut said:

Please show me a comment I've made telling someone they're "wrong". 

Are you saying they're wrong?

24 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

I don't think the pickup route is the problem. It looks as though the bolts for the neck attach either side of this which should counter-act any weakness at this point.

 

My suspicion is that the problem is due to the fact that all the "neck" bolts appear to be beyond the end of the truss rod, and the flexing point is between the end of the fingerboard and where the first set of bolts attach to to the body.

 

I wonder if fitting two more bolts that definitely attach the neck at a point where it is also being affected by the truss rod will overcome this flex point.

It could be that.

I guess it'd be easy to confirm/eliminate the pickup bay question by simply putting a ruler on the neck extension and seeing where the gap(s) lie; moving it back & forth to get an idea of the profile.

Doing that on the back side would pesumably show a bump or curve over which the ruler would rock.

I'd suggest that, whatever it is, the wood should be straightened (heat & clamps) rather than simply adding screws to try and pull it back under the assumption that the body is strong enough to force it against.

Also, if it is beyond the end of the brass plate (and assuming that is straight(!), there is only a very short  length there for those screws to exert a quite significant force to straighten it.

Those extra screws could help prevent it reoccurring in the future though.

7 minutes ago, W1_Pro said:

It sits kind of jointly on both the end of the extended neck and the body. So it needs a level base.

Yes, so simply shimming it won't do the trick.

@Maude's suggestion of shaving it could be a workaround, but I think the underlying issue would re-surface in the future.

My guess is that the issue is in that P-bass pickup cutout.

This is similar to the known neck-lift issue on Rickenbacker basses and people are able to fix that, either by heating/clamping to straighten it, or even by inserting carbon fibre strips to strengthen it and make it rigid.

8 hours ago, itu said:

No, this is a special construction where the neck extends to the bridge which is attached to the body. This isn't a neck through body, nor a bolt on neck as we usually understand it. 

If you look at the pictures, you will see that the bridge sits on the neck extension: the two front screws and 3 of the 5 tail-end bridge screw holes are on it (I didn't say it was a thru-neck).

Another thought is to cut the wood under the pickup and shim it there. 

This talk of shimming…

Doesn’t the bridge sit on the neck extension?

Why not offer it for sale?

Urinal Peep