Cuzzie

[quote name='highwayman' timestamp='1497284022' post='3317025']
[i]"The PJ Flightcase is still very compact and has a bit more oomph" [/i]

I'm actually leaning towards the BJB Briefcase, though the lack of an input jack to allow me to play music from my phone through during practice (and eventually performing solo) is a sticking point - any suggestions around that please?
[/quote]

Cheap xenys 502 mixer, DI out into this and aux in to the mixer and headphone out the mixer, all done plus if want to record you can do this

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1497273184' post='3316928']
Don't give up on overdrive pedals just because you tried two sh*t ones!
[/quote]

Have to agree, although you could refine it and say 2 pedals that were poo for you....!

[quote name='PaulWarning' timestamp='1497279097' post='3316979']
I was always under the impression that overdriving the signal compressed it anyway.
[/quote]

It does, but with decent compression at the end it allows for boosting of output compared to input and allows expression of light and heavy attack with the overdrive

Nick

If calculate all voltages and mA draw for each pedal I am sure we can power it off my Cioks DC5, bring them round or I come to you and we can work out if it runs pukka of my power supply then it's your brick?

You got me number

The demo by Roey Haviv on you tube is prob about the best one out there on this pedal

Compressor at the end of the chain to boost back up after distortion and take the high peaks out is one option.

When I ran a lot of dirt I would have a compressor early for clean playing and one at the end for when dirt engaged. It of course becomes a bit of a fag if it's clicking a pedals on and off if it's momentary dirt in a song but fine if it's for a song duration.

You could also look towards a pedal like Two Notes LeBass where you have 2 circuits, 1 clean and 1 drive, you can run them independently, run the Clean into the drive as a cascade, or run them parallel and at whatever stage have them blended to your taste.
Bottom end stays with it

I have a Cub

It's good, gets pretty punchy and I play mainly rock, it carries a clean sound, but has taken my pedals well of a little grit.
I use it to rehearse and we use an electric kit.

Best thing is the line out and you can expand it to the PB 100/300 powered speakers to extend the sound.
You could also use the line out into any power amp and cab so essentially using it as a monitor and having the main sound pumping elsewhere.

Good piece of kit.

I don't think you will be sorry

I have listened to it a lot and love the sound and a trusted source of mine absolutely raves about it.

It was very high on my list, but a good deal on something else came up

Obligatory pictures and report please when it is out in the wild

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1496844531' post='3314257']


It depends on the amp & cab(s).


I've got a Radiovox Valve amp. 4 KT88 valves & I've not gone much past 1 on the master (like my old Markbass, it goes to 6). I think it maxes at about 200 watts. Sounds lush.
[/quote]

Ah Valves - different animal

I am talking more Class D as his weight limit denotes that really, it even knocks out things like Hartke LH1000 that I had and that's a valve pre, just too heavy.

If we were allowed valves, Verellen Meatsmoke all day!!

Oh and regarding the Berg BI Amp

Dood is the one to ask about that, I think it's very progressive and with its digital interface will only get better and better as more patches become available

Always had an inkling for a Tech 21 Landmark or VT series

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1496836747' post='3314159']
Headroom is more about how efficient your cabs are, not how much wattage the amp has.
However, most light amps are marketed as being between 500 & 1000 watt (even the ones that aren't capable of it ). So you're gonna find you have a huge choice.
I'd try Cuzzie's list & add Markbass, Aguilar & Glockenklang too.

Try as many as you can & have fun doing so.
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Don't get me started on watts, RMS, continuous vs pulse power wave forms etc.

I'll pop a blood vessel!

For sure though in principle amps work best at about 45-70% of their volume range, so more headroom is better

You know me Al, here is my list and others can contribute.

Darkglass
Genzler Magellan
Trickfish Bullhead
+1 Thunderfunk
EICH
Tech 21 dUg Ultrabass
EBS Reidmar
Quilter bass block
Jule Monique
Bergantino BI Amp

There are others I am not a fan of their tone, but that is subjective so I will leave them out, but the Tecamp Puma despite being a lovely sounding amp, it has a tendency to crap out.
I know that Thomas EICH made them and they sound very similar, but the problems are ironed out with the EICH as far as I know.

Another for DR's

I used to have GhS boomers, fine for a while but die quick.

I know use the DDT's and they have been great, I do drop tune, but you can obviously use them for normal tuning

As the above post says.
Each pedal and cable in turn.
Honestly you won't go wrong with a proper isolated power supply.

Check you have the correct voltage and mA draw per pedal as per the power supply.

Is your smart phone in your pocket?
Active or hot pick ups on your bass, the phone can create some noise.
I have a VXL, great pedals, but if you are high gain it will create noise especially if you are stacking drive or effects.

If it's all eliminated and you like your sound, last thing is get a noise gate.
ISP Decimator is
About the best out there

Okee dokee

Look forward to hearing

It's the convenience of everything in one bag and all powered off a good isolated power brick for people on multiple jobs or quick changeovers.
It's also a space saver for storage issues, I have to hide my gear from the Mrs as I suspect we all do!

Or like I said and all in one.

People with way more gigging experience than me will hopefully chime in.

Entirely right

Glad you decided on the Cali!!!

Good speaker cables are a given in my book

But thinking about the chain, person to board to amp to speaker.
it's well and good to have a power amp on the board, but if your speaker is far away you will need a long Speakon cable.
These are way more inflexible that a 1/4 instrument jack hence tripping issues, a 1/4 amp jack is better for flexibility, but I prefer speakon for amp to cab.

This means then whatever the power amp will still be on the cab.

Now with a small enough real estate you could have the wireless, pre-amp and DHA power amp all on top the cab if you were a set and go person.
Or you could have the DHA power, with a VT1 EQ on the floor, board or not through to a cab/FOH PA and that's all you need so it's your silent practice rig and performing rig

There are loads of opportunities here.

Al,

Don't forget the second hand market prices

Sold my MXR for about the £120 mark
Showed you a standard big Cali at £225
And a SD at a great price (can't remember what it was)

If you mount your Cioks DC8 under the board, definitely room for a compressor! Or have the multi effects unit on the floor next to the board

I remember reading about that on TB amongst other places.

It says 600w @4ohms but I don't know if that's peak power or continuous and how long it lasts.
From what I rememeber you needed a decent pre-amp or it would not drive it at all. Most people had it on their amp and it pedal board as if you think about it if you have a speakon connector either this is long, or a Jack cable is long from guitar stuff to the amp, although technically I suppose you could go wireles....

Pre-amp of some sort maybe necessary, but the killer for me will be capabilities of using it as a practice amp also with aux input and headphone output which DOES set it apart from demeter, Minnie etc

Is that just the Scrambler or the SCR DI?

I was looking at that as not only a pedal but also a portable quiet practice tool.

It looked like it sounded the business

OK,
No worries, completely get your point.

I think aside from me saying it could just be a clean power amp, the other points are winners for me.

I need to go away and listen properly at the voicing of your other pedals with headphones on to hear how it sounds.
This is not being critical of your work, I just want to hear it to see if something like that would work for me personally and where it sits with other things out there

The options I see it are as you describe, which if going for a simple circuit put you into Quilter bass block territory for simplicity, or even Handbox (but they are quite big) or with a drive circuit that is looking at Genzler magellan or Darkglass territory, Tech 21 VT etc.

If you wanted to go for pure clean power then it's the Demeter Minnie 800 or Jule M700 power amp for non rackable stuff I would say are out there in front.

Not sure what other people are doing, but if people already have pre-amps they are happy with, then a small portable simple power amp to replicate faithfully their sound may be the way forward which could also double as a headphone practice amp, or DI without a cab.

Personally I have a valve pre-amp in the Two Notes LeBass, a Cali76 and a Hartke VXL bass attack pre-amp, and I may well get the Tech21 dUg pre-amp pedal when it comes out in the next year, so I probably have all the sound modulation I want, but a small power bundle similar to the Quilter Micro45 or as close as can be is a definite pick and go option

Dave I will copy in what I wrote to you and then answer after...


For me and my 2 pence worth this is what I think.

Keep it stripped and simple
Size - about half to 2/3 that of a Cali preferable but Cali size is no biggy
No EQ section volume only
750w @ 4Ohms minimum switchable down @8ohms to about 350w clean power. Has to be continuous RMS full watts.
Hypex power module
DI out
Headphone in
Aux in
Speakon/jack multi function port out

Now you can add compression to help alleviate peaks in sound to allow the true RMS or you can suggest a compressor before (heaven forbid!) to get the best out the amp.

Drive circuits are very subjective so I would leave one out and people can pre-amp in front, I know I would!