goonieman

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1439622173' post='2844390'] No, there is nothing 'wrong' with the Ad. But, why name the gig bag make in the title? Why not comment, specifically, that this is a copy of a Warwick and not a real one? Where did he get this bass from? Yes, you would be pretty daft to buy this thinking it was the real deal, but people will make this mistake, particularly in the dying minutes of the auction. He is being devious. [/quote] Indeed, it's dubious and questionable resale ethics... at best. If you look closely, its very shoddily put together. I remember being a teenager and I was very naive... i'd be tempted by such a thing. Very sad.

damn fine basses. Apparently (I can be corrected) the pups are wired in SERIES on these. I had one, but had to sell it because the neck was twisted

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bass-complete-with-Warwick-rock-bass-case-extras-ideal-learner-guitar/262001036265?_trksid=p2060778.c100276.m3476&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29974%26meid%3Dabef5f354be0441f88d57d51a9438bb6%26pid%3D100276%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D231626322716 knock yourself out. This is so badly done I feel just sick looking at it....

ok, as soon as the preamp arrives I will give it a whirl. Thanks so much again for your help and time on the diagram,

That is REALLY helpful - especially i'm a 'paint by numbers' guy! Just to be sure: the only thing you're saying is wrong with your version of the diagram is that the bridge should be connected to the pots, not the sleeve? cheers again

Anyone?

Actually - not attempted this yet (still waiting on the preamp) but it still does not make sense according to this wiring diagram... Any suggestions? Tip - hot (easy) and Battery to earth (barrel or case? are they the same thing?) That leaves 'jack centre' (ring) totally untouched? Surely not

Excellent - thanks a lot. That makes sense and should be easy now!

Thanks for this. MY problem is with the terminology in the diagram more than anything. For instance, what is the difference between 'centre' and 'barrel' in the diagram? ...and when you say "[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]battery(-ve) and preamp(0v) are connected to the ring and sleeve " , do you mean "respectively" - or that they are wired together?[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]thanks again[/font][/color]

Hi All, I can't quite figure out this jack for an active preamp. http://www.axetec.co.uk/axetec_media/sckt07_connections_550b_2.gif Jack tip (Signal +ve) is hot, right? [white?] Jack centre (signal +ve) - battery ground? Jack barrel and case: link the grounds? thanks

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1438980609' post='2839236'] It's going to need appropriate hardware, though... [/quote] This is an excellent point. If you're going the 'rat rod' route - which is awesome - bear in mind 2 things: 1. There is PLENTY of effort ahead of you in terms of finding and force-rusting the parts you desire, and 2. You will never recuperate your investment If you're happy with these two aspects, then go full-bore! I'd love to do something like this and would love to see the results!

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1438965994' post='2839075'] Poor bass players... 'Anything will do.' Can you imagine guitarists having the same discussion? [/quote] That ain't NEVER gonna happen! I can tell you this as a guitarist. I think its very important to choose a bass you identify with - not just what is around (unless you're a hardcore post-materialist punk, a hare krishan etc etc.) I still maintain the Warwick $$ is the best bang for buck in 'swiss army' department. Apart from that, you're talking a classic vibe jazz at entry level. The rest is string, fx, and amp selection.

For me - a Warwick Double Buck ($$). German models are ridiculous value for money if 2nd hand. Passive, active, single coil, humbucker, series, parallel (for each pup!). Plus the awesome warwick tone and 24 frets.

[quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1438625280' post='2835904'] Don't do it! Sell me your flea, buy a stingray with a status neck and pocket some dosh! :-) [/quote] ahhh... well, this is Fleabass... not a Flea Bass, i.e. Modulus. Sorry. I wish it was of course!

Hi All, I'm going to upgrade my fleabass - but not sure which pup to throw in. I've boiled it down to a EMG35HZ or Basslines SSB-4... Preamp will be a 2-band stingray (retrovibe stinger). I'm worried that the EMG/preamp combo will be too sizzly. Is the preamp + SSB more sensible? I'm going for a stingray / modulus / modern zingy capability, with plenty of thump and bark [if that helps ]

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1438344297' post='2833726'] Any idea what strings [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Bakhiti Khumalo plays?[/font][/color] [/quote] Hard to find out... even Bakhiti will probably not remember, but I get a similar tone using chrome flatwounds on the bridge pup with the treble dialled-out quite a lot, a decent upper mid-boost, and plucking at the bridge.

phew... Finally got around to finishing off this mini-project. I installed a Spector Tonepump preamp (bought on this very forum from "discreet") to replace the passive and alarmingly bad electronics found in the factory original. Have it set at vol/vol (stacked) / treble/ bass. This preamp sounds as good my glockenklang 2-band, but has WWAAAAAYYY more boost. I've currently got it tuned around 33% on the trimpot! Downside is that it picks-up RF interference much more easily. Overall, I love the preamp. I don't get why people hate on it so much. They probably have it turned up way to far. Lesson learnt (again): 1. try before you buy, 2. if you buy an older warwick rockbass, you might well be in for a 'doer-upper'. Anyway, i'm finally finished. Time to sit back, have a cup of tea, and admire the beauty. ------------------------------ FYI - The history: Arrival - bad news: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/266450-the-sad-and-tragic-failures-of-the-new-rockbass-streamer-fretless/page__p__2827979#entry2827979 ..to fixing the neck: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/266615-the-slow-but-certain-resurrection-of-the-new-white-rockbass-fretless/page__p__2829805#entry2829805 ...and documenting the neck work: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/266615-the-slow-but-certain-resurrection-of-the-new-white-rockbass-fretless/page__p__2829805#entry2829805

yeah, I guess some copper shielding is required. The cavity is painted in conductive paint - but not exceptionally well.

My streamer or corvette hang fine. Well balanced. The corvette is Bubinga body and Wenge neck, while the streamer is pine body and maple neck. The difference you will sense is that the first fret on the Warwicks will appear further away from your fretting hand. It feels as though the neck is elongated is away from you. This might take some time getting used to. I prefer Warwick bodies, personally, because they are smaller. I love a good jazz bass, but the bodies just irritate me a little.

hmmm... but they're passive pups, into an active preamp? Anyway, they work well: not muddy on the full setting. Just the right amount of treble...

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1438269716' post='2833100'] I've never heard of a battery being the cause of electromagnetic interference - though if you're moving the battery about that probably means you're also moving bundles of wires about with the possibility of movement at poorly made connections maybe? Looking at Tonepump wiring diagrams I see that some suggest using 250K volume pots and some (including the BP-4 module that your diagram indicates) say use 500K - are you sure the 250K pots are ok? This assumes you've got passive humbuckers too. [/quote] I would have thought that 500k would bring out the higher spectrum even more? I have MEC passive soapbar pups. It's odd, because my passive single coil MECs on my warwick corvette with glokenklang pre are totally silent! I've emailed the designer of the tonepump, so i guess i'll wait to hear back. thanks

Hi All, I just installed in a Spector Tonepump into my 2 x humbucker bass using this diagram: http://michalik.cz/images/pdf/bp-4_2volume_rev2_en.pdf Only I used a 250K vol pot, and added the ground from the bridge assembly into the ground on the jack (where the brown wire goes). I gut this intermittent 'whine' when boosting the treble pot:, FYI: [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]• Powered by 9V battery[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]• Current consumption 1,2mA[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]• Battery lifetime cca 420 hours, when using quality alkaline ones up to 1000 hours.[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]• Gain +12dB[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]• Tone controls:[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]• Bass: +14dB/-4dB @55Hz[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]• Treble: +14dB/-12dB @6,5kHz[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I reckon its battery related because the 'whine' reduces and drifts when I move the battery around the compartment. Should the battery be shielded?[/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]thx[/font][/color]