Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

uk_lefty

⭐Supporting Member⭐
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,022

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

 Content Type 

Everything posted by uk_lefty

  1. uk_lefty
    Andy, loving your work on those basses! Would love to get an exotic wood top on my MIM fender jazz, or anything looking more natural, but I understand that the paint and poly coating is so thick it would destroy the bass to remove it? Anyhow, speak of the devil, I can't seem to attach the photo, but basically its an MIM Fender Jazz, ash tray over the neck pickup, black pickguard on a "midnight wine" body, chrome knobs instead of the plastic stock ones, Badass II bridge, Bartolini pickups, Fender straplocks, schaller lightweight tuners (don't like these, would prefer Fender style ones for the original look), handmade bone nut. It has had a black thumb rest but above the e string but i found this got in the way, might put it back below the g if i get bored enough one day. I'd love a maple neck on it, or even just m.o.p inlay stickers for now. The bartolini's and the badass bridge are the best mods, it has a really clear sound almost as good as on my old Warwick Streamer LX in the highs.
  2. uk_lefty
    Hi folks, Just trying to find out the differences between these two reissue basses, the 57 and te 62 precision. The 57 has the maple fingerboard... That's the only obvious difference but is there anything like neck shape or pickup nuances to consider? I can't find reliable English language info anywhere. Thank you
  3. uk_lefty
    Thanks for the reply! Got the neck pickup in no problems, tested and all good... But the ridge pickup is about a mm to wide for the slot, going to need some very careful work to widen the gap. I think I just have an MIM from an era where everything was awkward!
  4. uk_lefty
    I purchased some bartolini pickups as an upgrade to my MIM fender jazz... Problem is the wiring diagram doesn't really help much. The barts have two wires coming out, one copper coloured with a clear plastic wrap, one just bear silver wire... So the question is, which goes where when soldering on to the pots? The original pickups have one yellow wire going on to the side of the pot (near te capacitor?) and a black wire soldered to the bottom of the pot... I don't want to solder my new barts in the wrong place but could really do with some help! Apologies if this is a dumb question but electronics really aren't my thing
  5. uk_lefty
    Thanks for the replies! I'll take some measurements before laying any money down for new pickups!
  6. uk_lefty
    Apologies if this seems like a bit of an amateur question... I have a 90s MIM Fender J Bass. As much as I'd love to have an MIJ or MIA I can't justify the cost, so the MIM has had a few upgrades over the years - BadAss II Bridge, Schaller tuners, copper shielding around the pickups, handmade real bone nut, and for cosmetics a new pickguard and a pickup cover on the neck pickup. I'm now wanting to upgrade the electronics. Being a 90s J Bass both pickups are the same size so most sets of 2x J pickups won't be suitable without routing which I dont want to do... I've found the pickups I want (Fender CS 60s) So the real qestion is can I get away with buying 2x bridge pickups and installing, or will the mis-alignment of the strings and poles at the neck pickup position cause me a problem? Would I better off with a differently desgined pickup such as the Bartolinis? Part II of the question - as the pickups will be going in to a lefty bass will i need to take any other measures? I've heard some lefties needing to extend the wire length but not sure this would always be the case? Thanking you in advance...
  7. uk_lefty
    [quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1368777031' post='2081265'] Whats the deal with those pickup covers? what advantage is it supposed to give? I appreciate it looks kinda cool but surley having an enormous piece of metal right over the middle of the strings would make a bass nigh on impossible to play? I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere so apologies if its going over old ground. [/quote] Having one of the neck pickup doesnt stop me at all, i play pretty much always over the bridge pickup.I have it purely for the look, not sure what the original purpose ever was.
  8. uk_lefty
    Thanks, got to say I really like the tone of the bass and it will look strange with a tiny bridge.... Really really not sure I should drill this to get the fender bridge on, and risk not liking it and putting the badass back... With drilled holes under the bridge and for the F cover. Not sure means don't do it, right?
  9. uk_lefty
    I have a midnight wine Fender MIM J Bass that I picked up second hand and i absolutely love it. It had been heavily modified by the previous owner - Schaller tuners (unfortunately not Fender style), Badass bridge,new scratchplate in white pearloid and new knobs that were cheap crappy plastic and not Fender style. I've now put on a black scratchplate, neck pickup cover, handmade bone nut, and chrome knobs. I recently bought a Fender Delux bridge on eBay so that I could fit a bridge "ash tray"/ pickup cover to really go for the retro look. But now I'm hesitating. Question is.... what would you do? Keep the Badass bridge on, which looks great...or put the Fender Delux bridge and "F" logo bridge pickup cover? The screw holes do not line up exactly which was a massive disappointment, I'd thought that the Badass was a direct Fender replacement and so swapping that for a Delux would be just an unscrewing job, turns out I was wrong. Before I drill in to the bass to fit this new bridge and the cover, interested to hear some opinions. Whichever bridge is not used on the J will go on to a P Bass project
  10. uk_lefty
    I played a second hand de-fretted Squier P Special in a music shop years ago. It was very light and felt cheap and plasticy but played very very nicely and had a good tone. If you get the Squier cheap on eBay just whip out the frets yourself, or buy a cheap fretless neck from eBay or a parts website.
  11. uk_lefty
    Stagg effects pedal case/ board. Really robust, inside suitable for mounting velcro. 44cm x 25cm. Good condition. £20 Collect from SW London or Guildford
  12. uk_lefty
    Now on eBay... need a quick sell, will listen to offers.
  13. uk_lefty
    Excellent condition - gorgeous sounding amp, really true to the instrument. Its the 120 watt 15" speaker version, unfortunately too big (in the wife's opinion!) and we're moving to a smaller flat soon. Provided in excellent condition, never pushed the volume too far (rarely over 20%), comes with manual and mains lead. Only slight minus is that the small plastic cover is missing from the top but this makes no difference whatsoever and is very easily replaceable. The three band EQ is great - I usually set all flat and make the tiniest adjustment on the bass and treble. The shape function is good for making your sound extra deep or extra dry. Cheapest I can find a new one on Google shopping is £339. Happy to sell at £165. Collection from SW London or Guildford. Can provide pics and sound sample on request - e-mail me ross.a.rayner at gmail dot com If no interest here by August will go to eBay Hartke's spec: [color=#000000][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=4] Flexible enough to be played upright or kicked back as a monitor, our Kickback quickly became one of the most imitated (but never duplicated) designs in bass. Now its available in three different versions for all kinds of applications from home practice and rehearsal to club dates and small theater venues.[/size][/font][/color][color=#000000][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=4] The big bottom Kickback combo. Versatile two-way design with all the bass you'll ever need. Massive Hartke 15in aluminium cone driver. 120 Watts at 8 Ohms. Fully adjustable Shape control. 3-band EQ, Passive/Active input jack, balanced XLR output.[/size][/font][/color][color=#000000][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=4] Revolutionary Two-Way (Upright & Tilt-Back) Cabinet Design For Performance, Practice And Monitoring Custom Hartke 15in Aluminum-Cone Driver 120 Watts at 8 Ohms Unique Shape Control For Accurate Tone-Shaping 3-Band EQ Passive/Active Input Jack Balanced XLR Out Dimensions: 21.75in(H) X 18in(W) X 16.75in(D) Weight: 47 lb.[/size][/font][/color]
  14. uk_lefty
    Anyone selling a lefty Fender Jazz neck all maple?
×
×
  • Create New...