spellonyou

The problem I encounter is that I like to check out BC on my tablet, but the soundcloud links won't work on that device. I hardly ever use my laptop at home anymore and won't spend more than a couple of minutes here during work hours for obvious reasons. Maybe my problem is rare but as more and more people are using portable devices to go online I think it is worth thinking about how content is shared on these forums with the limitations of these devices in mind.

I got a Cort GB35a and am quite pleased with it. B-string is quite decent and the 2 pups allow for a variety of tones. To be honest though; I never got the nice tones out of it that I get from my old fender jazz copy from the 70's. And since I detuned that 4-string to D standard with a set of heavy gauge flatwounds on it, I hardly ever really need that 5-stringer anymore.

maybe the nut slot is too wide for the gauge of the new a string, causing loss of sustain due to the string moving back and forth.

The Tascam guitar trainer comes close, but it plays cds. I don't know if there's a version that plays mp3 files. edit: yes the gb10 plays mp3 and wav files.

Here's my current setup, with the Korg sitting there temporarily, as it's not really suitable for live situations, with all them little buttons and switches... [attachment=136941:pedalboard.png]

For me, there can be only one: thanks Eddie Hazel, r.i.p! [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOKn33-q4Ao[/media]

Thanks for your tips guys; much appreciated!

Hi all, My jazz is tuned to DGCF and I plan to keep it that way, but with the current .45 - .105 roundwound strings attached I can't seem to lower the action as much as I'd like without causing fretbuzz, losing tone as wel as sustain, unless I play very light or close to the bridge. Now I could install a .50 - .110 set but I am not fond of having to mess with the nut, and I rather not risk having the nut split from forcing in too thick a string. As I don't really care for the bright sound of new strings that much, and roll off the highs with the tone knob quite a bit most of the time (I also never feel the need to change strings before they are actually defective), I am considering switching to flats. Now I'm eyeballing these Fender 9050m steel flats and hope they'll solve the problems, as they reportedly have very hight tension. Am I on the right track to a possible solution with this idea? And if so, are there any other reasonably priced brands/sets that I should consider? Sandor

Hi Paul, I've had a lot of trouble with the Deepressor and eventually gave up and exchanged it for a Carl Martin Classic Opto comp. The Deepressor left the upper registers more intact than the Carl Martin, but it had a bit more roll-off on the lows. The input PAD button is effective but takes away quite a bit of harmonics and dulls the highs. I was hoping it would really "growl" when set to high compression settings, as advertised by the designer, but it must be very subtle because I never noticed it. It does deliver loads of sustain though, if that's what you need, and without adding too much noise as well. My biggest problem with this compressor was that it had a tendency to hum like crazy, especially when used in combination with other pedals. I was surprised when i found the shoddy soldering inside the unit when i opened it up to see if anything was amiss inside. The ground wire had come loose from the print circuit; it looked like it had been glued in place instead of properly soldered. Instead of sending it back for repairs i fixed this myself, but it did not solve the humming problem. I tried every trick in the books to fix this problem, but I never succeeded, and eventually ordered a replacement under warranty. Then I found that the replacement unit had exactly the same problem. I contacted Palmer about this issue and they never bothered to answer. Then I decided I had wasted enough time, shipped the Palmer back and got the CM. The design of the housing seems so neat with the screw holes but if you tighten the screws the pedal lifts up at the front. I ended up making a construction so I could screw it down at the front as well. Access to the input/output jack sockets is hindered by the encasing; when using angled jacks you'll have trouble arranging your patch cables neatly. The input PAD button is located in an awkward place when everything is cabled up on your board, so switching if on or off during sessions is not so convenient. For me, this experience made me weary of buying another of Palmer's products. Too bad because they recently introduced an octaver pedal for bass and i am interested to find out how well it performs.

If it had any or all of these 3 more features it would be so much more useful; 1. Headphone amp circuitry 2. Midi connectivity, maybe some software as well for maintaing your banks. 3. Soundcard functionality through usb. That would make me sell my Korg Pandora PX5

[quote name='fumps' timestamp='1361790908' post='1990741'] these [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/SoundMAGIC-E10-Earphones-Black-Red/dp/B005HP3PNM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1PKQHJ2QVWIFA&coliid=I2E7QXT165SVIM"]http://www.amazon.co...=I2E7QXT165SVIM[/url] read about them here [url="http://www.whathifi.com/review/soundmagic-e10"]http://www.whathifi..../soundmagic-e10[/url] [/quote] +1

Nice Precray! Please tell, what is the third knob for?

I tried a cheap Behringer unit first but had to send it back because it would not even reliably track the E string. Got a PitchBlack instead and have been very happy with it except for one thing; it was causing my compressor to go nuts when it was in front of it in the signal chain. Putting the tuner all the way at the end of the chain solved that problem though.

I've been using a hb 5110 for a while at band rehearsals with two/three guitarists and a drummer who liked to pound his kit and never had trouble keeping up, with or without a 210 extension cab. Only thing I wish for is Thomann to start selling a decently priced and light 110 extension cab with tweeter that would match the combo better than the 210 (and be easier to carry around). If i had to sell off all my amps but one I'd keep the 5110

Thanks guys! I think I'll have a little look on the underside of those pups to see if the bottom of the pole pieces are clearly visible.

Hi, Both the neck and bridge pups on my bass have magneta that are not sitting at the same height; the difference in height is quite large, like half a centimeter or so. The magnets of the A and the G string pop out; the E and D magnets sit more or less flush with the top plane of the pups. It is an Aria Diamond fender jazz copy from the early seventies; the magnets were like this when i acquired the bass. I notice no big loudness difference between the strings; Were the magnets placed like this intentionally? If not; is it possible and advisable to put them back in the same plane so that they are all flush with the top of the pup? If so, I would like to know how I could do this; i'd just whack them with a hammer but that might not be the best cause of action in this case :-) Cheers, Sandor

In its current state:

Thanks guys; it seems to be a model 1540. It's got some dings on the body and the pickup guards and finger rest are missing, but otherwise it looks like the original. I'd love to post a picture but haven't got the means right now. It plays like nothing i've held in my hands until now, after only a little cleaning and setup. The truss needs a bit more tightening and the top nut could be somewhat lower, but i'll take things slowly with this old lady :-)

Hi all, I'm trying to find out more about the origins of this old jazz bass i bought yesterday. It sais Diamond on the headstock and on the metal plate supporting the neck screws it sais: Steel adjustable neck, made in Japan, and a serial number 1069264. it seems to be one of those fender standard jazz bass copies they made in those days, but i canot find reference of this particular brand name on any of the websites that lists the japanese manufacturers of those days. I hope someone on these forums is willing to help. cheers, Sandor

I am happy with the 2x10 version of their cab as an extension to the combo. It sounds fine to me and handles the low B well enough for band practice situations. I have not gigged with this semi halfstack, but cranked it up once or twice and it looks like it can get quite loud before losing its tone. I like the tone quite well but I am still developing my hearing sense in that area and do not hear many of the subtleties that the more experienced musicians can.

One more thing about these iRig things; I've tested a cheap knockoff of this thing with an Android phone and found out that the Android platform is not useable for real time music applications, regardless of the quality of the hardware (at least for now) So for the moment this kind of setup is only useable with Apple products. I don't think there could have been much wrong with the iRig thing itself but I do not know for sure; I sent it back to Thomann. Price was good though; it's called the Jackamp Mobile...

i have the korg pandora px5d, and it works pretty well for me. also, it handles down to low-B without sounding funny. i did an a-b test in the shop between the pandora mini and the px5d, and found the sound quality of the px5d to be superior. if you're looking for nothing more than a good quality instrument headphone amp though, i would consider trying out the one that is made by Palmer. It's more expensive than the amplug but cheaper than the pandora mini. i have not tested the Palmer myself but seen good reviews about it on the web.