PaulKing

Bought my first bass from a place called Highfield Violins in Brum, but I think that place moved years ago. Google them though. There also used to a nice little luthier based in Stratford who did some work for me once... google again. If you can bare atrip down the M40, Peter Tyler near Reading does set ups and great luthiery. V friendly, not at all snobbish about modern cheap basses. Great bloke. SHout if you're after more guidance on set up and costs. I tendto post over on Doublebasschat.com more, but the UK feel around here is nice!

Try posting thios over at Doublebasschat.com (new name for Rockabillybass.com) Lots of Innovation fans there. If you're not registered I'll link for you?

[quote name='BigBeatNut' post='618871' date='Oct 6 2009, 06:38 PM']Do tell ....[/quote] In my humble, and probably slightly snobbish opinion, they're a piece of sh*t. Many people disagree, people who's opinion I respect, and I admit to having heard their basses amplified sounding pretty bloody good ('gut' like). Listen to all the fantastic youtube clips of Romany gypsys playing whackers too ... no complaints there. For an authentic rockabilly / roots sound, they give a good approximation of plain gut (with all the limitations of gut, but not quite the fullness of tone). You have to accept that the E, and to a large extent the A are almost useless except for percussive slapping (even worse than plain gut E and A are). But (acoustically at least) they sound flat and artificial to my ear, where gut don't. Maybe it's psychological. They are a DREAM to play for slapping, so easy it takes no effort at all, meaning you can have (in fact NEED) very high string height. That partly helps compensate for the very low volume.. but not enough for me. When I've put them on a bass, I just hear how much of the tone disappears in one go ... and I can't bring myself to stick with it, despite the playability (and price). Lots of the tone goes when you put on guts too, but what's left at least feels real and rich for acoustic playing (ie recording). Whackers are such low tension, and such low volume, you lose any semblance of acoustic sustain and projection, any of the sound of the bass itself ... it feels to me like while the string is sounding, the bass is silent, you may as well play an EUB. Whackers don't have the energy to make that big wooden box do what it's designed to do. I have to admit, part of it at least is just snobbery. I have a lovely vintage bass. (Well... 3 actually...). Everything about it is evocative, I find the whole thing slightly romantic. I enjoy playing with bright modern steels when they bring out the full richness of the bass... and I enjoy nylons that make a fantastic no-compromise slapping sound ... and guts because they look, feel and sound like the real deal (although E and A don't really cut it). But plastic strimmer wire? That leaves your amazing wooden box practically dead... Even if it does amplify perfectly well I aion't having it. Did I make my point? Over at rockabillybass.com (sorry ... sex change, 'From now on I want to be known as Doublebasschat.com') I'd get three dozen perfectly respectable counter arguments. But for a moment at least I'll get my point heard over here!

I got basses strung with all gut, gut mixed with Innovation Silverslap nylons, all Innovation, and an EUB with Innovation black flatwound nylon. I got whackers on the shelf too. They're on the shelf for a reason... I'm in Ealing - happy to let fellow bassist in for half an hour to check out strings one weekend.

Yeah, swing on by when it's all back up. Some nice bass porn amongst the eternal gut vs steel bickering. And some seriously good bassists with wisdom to share. PS ... see my bass for sale...

Peter Tyler in Maidenhead would value it for you too. Find him on google. But that £4k price could be right, maybe a bit on the high side.

[quote name='fatgoogle' post='582826' date='Aug 27 2009, 07:55 PM']So I picked it up, its loud, and will do the job. But it defiantly needs the action lowered, and was wondering how much this generally costs, to have done. Im presuming i cant do it, because the bridge will need to be moved of done something with.[/quote] First thing to check - string height could be too high because bridge is in wrong place. The centres of the bridge feet should line up with the little notches cut into the f-holes. If your bridge is higher up thqan this, it could make the strings a couple of mm too high. So follow the noptes below to re-position the bridge. If that's not the problem, you can still do some DIY and save oodles of quid on luthier fees. Taking off the bridge is really not that scary. 1) Lie the bass flat. Do not pick it up again until you have finished this procedure... 2) Loosen off all the strings, each one a bit at a time to keep the pressure relatively even on the bridge. 3) When the strings are really quite loose, you'll be able to topple the bridge over easily. Make sure the tailpiece doesn't drop onto the surface of the bass and scratch it. 4) Take off the bridge to do whatever you need to do... 5) Reposition bridge, starting with it lying flat, feet pointing towards bottom of bass. Than lift the top up underthe strings, slotting the strings into the notches, making sure they don't catch under the fingerboard. Also make sure the tailgut (wire that connects the tailpiece to end pin) runs over the little wooden saddle at the bottom of the bass. 6) Good idea at this point to scrape a little pencil lead into the bridge notches to lubricate the strings. 7) Slide around the bridge until in the right place, check strings run centrally along fingerboard, then start tightening strings, again each one just a bit at a time. 8) As tension gets higher, watch the bridge doesn't pull towards the neck. if it does, just push it back so that the feet are flat, and the bridge at 90degrees to the top of the bass. 9) When strings are almost full tension, pick up the bass and finish off tuning. To adjust the string height ... 1) Work out how much you want to lower height by (typical steel string heights for jazz are around 5-8 mm, normally heighest on E string.) 2) Draw a line vertically down from centre of each existing string notch. 3) Mark points on those lines xmm beneath existing notch. Then using a small round file, slowly deepen the notch (without widening if you can) until you reach that line. 4) You could put the bridge back on like this, but you'll have deep notches, which can affect the sound. 5) Ideally the notches should be only half the thickness of the string, so you should really sand off any excess wood from the top. Best to draw a line that follows the existing contour, that runs half a string thickness above your new notches. then sand down to this line. 6) Make sure the notches are smooth and rounded, no sharp edges. Scrape some pencil lead into them. Job done. Sounds scary, but isn't really... Cheap decent pick ups: David gage Realist for jazz; Underwood, K+K BassMax, Revolution Solo II, Shadow 950 for all purposes. That'll do for starters. All around 100+ quid

I have an identical bass ... it's beautiful, one of the warmest, easiest playing, nicest basses I've ever owned (of about a dozen so far, including two vintage Kays). Mine's been refinished in blonde, sweet. Yours in original fiish? I've never seen one in decent conditon, what's it look like? But I've no idea of the exact year. Where did you get that from or is it an educated guess ... certainly late 60's is closest I can get, and I spoke to the Czech woman who was in charge of exports to B+H in the 60s!! FYI I reckon it was made at the factory which is now Strunal. Anyway. Sounds like you're struggling on with the wheels... First advice would've been to lie bass flat, loosen strings, pop bridge down, hook tailpiece off end pin, whip out end pin assembly, file or cut retaining lugs off end pin, put back together... but you've sorted that one. Next tip - 8mm pins are pretty poor usually. Thomann stock a pretty affordable, cork-lined 10mm end-pin assembly ..though you'll have to pay someone to fit it, or risk some woodwork fitting it into your end block. But in the long run they're much more solid, no rattles, no bending... but cash. That's double bass eh?

[quote name='Adi' post='556048' date='Jul 30 2009, 12:02 PM']Thanks for the tip TPJ, this is going to be my next project, I'll post the results, maybe even with sound files.[/quote] B+H never made any string instruments as far as I know, just imported. Golden Strads were Hungarian made, and (I believe) all solid top. More like 1960s / 70s though. The other common model from that time was the Excelsior (a name they applied to many student instruments, brass and woodwind), at least some of them being Czech made under the Artia label, coming from the Luby factory that now make Strunal basses. I've owned both models, and still play the Excelsior. Both lovely sounding basses. This 400 looks most like an Excelsior type. But it's more recent. Still, likely it is Czech made, possible even from same factory as the earlier Excelsiors. Which would essentially make it a Strunal bass. Sort of.

I played with one of these last week (thought the sound was very mid-rangey for my bass). Instructions recommended rubbing Roisin dust onto feet and bass surface. Creates sticky patch to stop the sliding. Standard practice for many bassists to keep the bridge secure, even without a pickup in the way.

[quote name='fatgoogle' post='539649' date='Jul 13 2009, 08:05 PM']So the thomann ones should be good aswell, ive been looking at them, but still am not sure what to look for. Also a bit of topic, im going to England mid august, kent london ish i think. Are there any shops over there were i could maybe play on some and get a feel for what is and isnt a good double bass.[/quote] Not all the thomann ones are good. the very cheapest 111, 222 I think, and the cutaway / sunburst rockabilly ones, they are CCBs. I think the Strunal models are 'Thomann 1' (all ply) Thomann 2 (hybrid) and Thomann 3 (carved) each in various finishes. There are few places where you can handle decent cheap basses, but several where you can handle expensive carved ones ... but that doesn't really help. Thwaites (north) is the best bet - they carry some cheap basses too. Google them. Or Bridgewood and Niezert in Stoke Newington. Or there's a dealer out west called Peter Tyler - he has a house full of about 50 basses, but not really just for browsing. Or you'd be welcome to drop in at my place, I've 3 basses you could try out, 2 ply, one carved.

[quote name='fatgoogle' post='517555' date='Jun 18 2009, 03:40 PM'][url="http://www.janetdavismusic.com/bass_cremona.html"]http://www.janetdavismusic.com/bass_cremona.html[/url] i can get the sb-1 for 450 if i can talk him down from 500 now, i theres a fella in waterford selling one. Would this DB do tell i can afford something alot better, well not a 30Grand bass, but something like a christopher or a stenton conservotoire or something better you know. This is my first DB bass remember. Actually has anyone heard of strunal, i looked up there site and it looks good [url="http://www.strunal.cz/new/index.php?cat=home&id=2"]http://www.strunal.cz/new/index.php?cat=home&id=2[/url] im not sure which one it is, but they look decent.[/quote] Strunal make very solid, good sounding, loud, clear basses. Excellent student basses, way better qualioty than any of the cheap chineses basses stocked in most music shops or on ebay. I had this exact model, 50/4 blonde. Nice bass. Nice price. Bright sounding, as most new basses are. But very well made, loud and punchy, well set up, delivered from factory right to my door. You can buy this same bass only with rosewood fittings from Thomann online shop. They stock several Strunal basses, but rename them Thomann 1 etc

[quote name='johnny dissident' post='74072' date='Oct 14 2007, 09:15 AM']I have the same dilemma,I rushed into buying a stentor student,without shopping around properly,because I was desperate to start learning.Immediately it's limitations became apparent,it was'nt even set up . So I lowered the action, which was an unplayable 15mm down to 8mm,installed a KK Bass Max and fitted it with a set of Helicore hybrid strings, it came with brake cables.It's cost me an extra 200 quid on top of the £500 I brought it for ,but it's sounding ok it's never going to be a great sounding bass. But when do I stop spending money on it and upgrade.I would like to fit an adjustable bridge and have a professional set up ,I found that the bridge is'nt seated properly,but I've been quoted £200 for this. can anyone recommend a luthier in the glos ,oxon,wilts area who could help me get the best out of this instrument without spending too much.[/quote] Try Peter Tyler basses, he's out near Reading somewhere I think. tylerbasses.co.uk Great bloke, house full of basses. heaven.

[quote name='bassbloke' post='94631' date='Nov 26 2007, 04:50 PM']I've decided that I have to get a double bass. It would be really, really useful if someone on this forum with some experience could share some advice, such as price you should expect to pay, good or bad countries of origin, reccomended makes and warning signs. Thank you[/quote] Some interesting opinions expressed on here, and as usual the truth is likely somewhere in the middle. My first post here, I normally live at rockabillybass.com, which will give you an idea of what I do with my basses. I slap them about, which some might think is heresy. But there is NO BASS SNOBBERY over there. I still take my basses very seriously though. I think I've owned 10 different basses in nearly 20 years. Mostly budget end, but also one beautiful 1940s carved German bass, my pride and joy. I've got 3 acoustic and one EUB at the moment. My opinion: Yes buy a bass and have fun, it's easy to get started, takes a lifetime to master, as most instruments. Do take great care buying a cheap bass though. Even a good store like Footes in London sells Chinese and Romanian student basses that sound pretty rough, at well over £1000. And they feel uncomfortable too. Both of those factors can make them frustrating and disatisfying to play, and produce unpleasant noises which only deter you from persisting. However you can pick up beautiful basses, new and second hand, for around £500. They come up on ebay, but you need to know what to look for. There's a fine Hofner on right now if you're quick. Thomann on-line store - they sell Strunal (Czech) basses, which are beautifully made, wonderful to play and sound the business. £400-£1000. Look at the Thomann 2W (it's made by Strunal). They also sell Christopher I think, which are good chinese basses. In the States you have more choice - Upton, Hawkes, Englehardt, American Standard, and the elusive original Kay basses (if you're lucky to find one). Plus King who make indestructible gigging basses for rock stars and bedroom wannabes alike. But there are many Chinese basses you should avoid at all costs, they just don't cut it and have a reputation for falling apart. They just sound and feel vulnerable and cardboardy. They often have Italian or European sounding names, but they aren't. You CAN enjoy one of these, and you can have one that lasts perfectly well - I know plenty of people who are happy with theirs. But I bet that every single one of them would trade it for a Strunal if they had the opportunity to play one. Then you have to choose the right strings and pick up. They DO make a difference. Low tension strings are MUCH easier to learn on, but might hold your technique back later on. Don't expect the strings that come on the bass to have much warmth and sustain. Thomastik Spirocore are pretty much the standard for most situations. There are several pick-up options. Whatever you choose first will be OK, but you'll want to experiment later on - personal choice. So in short. Buy one. Spend £500+. Check the make carefully, and ask here, or at rockabillybass.com. Buy some decent strings. Teach yourself to play. Enjoy. Nurse your sore fingers. polish the varnish. Change the strings again. Never look back.