Bloodaxe

Might do, not sure yet... When's the kick-off? P.

Hang back... Whole notes can work superbly: Yes, it's that Welsh fellah again!

[quote name='essexbasscat' post='884063' date='Jul 2 2010, 03:36 PM']Next year we'll make a list of who purchased what numbers so prizes can be sent on, which will be fairer.[/quote] Or do the raffle at, say, 2pm. That way you should catch pretty much everyone. Pete.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='883565' date='Jul 1 2010, 11:55 PM']Now that is strange - not sure whether I like it or not. Maybe a refin; but he does say 1988, ie post - Matsumoku so it might be a Korean peculiarity. Odd that he says [i]designed[/i] by Matsumoku, rather than built. J.[/quote] After a bit of digging around, it [i]could[/i] be an early SB-600, although the examples in the photos below don't have the skunk stripe laminations - [url="http://www.matsumoku.org/models/ariaproii/bass/sb/sb.html"]http://www.matsumoku.org/models/ariaproii/bass/sb/sb.html[/url] [url="http://www.prog.rockers.co.uk/sb600.htm"]http://www.prog.rockers.co.uk/sb600.htm[/url] - & since the S/N begins with a 0... A bolt-on sunburst 600 fetched up in the Colonies a while back, I'll have a poke around TB & see what I can find. P.

Take the bit after the = (and before the &, if there is one), then paste it between the tags... Thus: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDbf9dCbUbM"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDbf9dCbUbM[/url] [Tag]jDbf9dCbUbM[/Tag] Pete.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aria-Pro-II-Bass-Guitar-Flight-Case-/130403676251?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item1e5caa305b"]Extremely Blue Aria CSB-380[/url] and I've no idea what this is... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aria-Pro-2-Bass-guitar-LEFTY-/200489921853?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2eae216d3d"]A Left-handed Sunburst SB???[/url]

From: [url="http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip32.html"]http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip32.html[/url] [quote]The biggest difference between stains and dyes is the color -- many stains look muddy, sort of like looking through a window with the screen on. Remove the screen and you get an idea of the clear colors produced by aniline dyes. The reason is simple. Most stains leave tiny colored particles (pigments) on the surface of the wood. But dyes penetrate the wood fibers. This emphasizes the figure of the wood instead of partially obscuring it. Aniline dyes also color the wood more evenly than pigmented stains. Unlike stains that concentrate in the areas of the wood that have large pores (like end grain), dyes penetrate all parts equally. Another nice thing about aniline dyes is the wide range of colors. There are even bright primary colors, like what you might want to use on kids' projects. Regardless of the color, most dyes are sold as a dry powder that needs to be dissolved in a solvent, either water, alcohol, or oil. Of the three, the guys at ShopNotes have found that the water-soluble dyes are the easiest to apply. And they produce deep, rich colors. But they do have one drawback. The water in the dye raises the grain of the wood and produces a rough surface. Since sanding the wood after it dries removes some of the color, you need to wipe down the project with a damp rag before applying the dye. This raises "whiskers" that are easy to remove with sandpaper (use one grit finer than the final grit used to sand the project). When mixing the dye, dissolve the powder in hot water like you're making a cup of instant coffee. Although the recommended ratio is one ounce of dye powder to a quart of water, you can create lighter or darker color by using more or less water. As with most stains, you can use a rag or brush to apply the dye. To avoid lap marks, the trick is the keep the surface wet and wipe off the excess dye before it dries. And beware that dye will appear chalky or dull when it dries. But applying a finish is all it takes to restore a clear, bright color. Just be sure to use an oil-based finish, since water will re-dissolve the dye.[/quote] Some more here: [url="http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/tecAniline.html"]http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/tecAniline.html[/url] Pete.

[quote name='Kongo' post='881488' date='Jun 29 2010, 11:27 PM']Standard tuning...why the 110 low-E? Like the feel of it and works well if drop-D is needed...which hardly is.[/quote] Usedto be a great fan of the 110 E back in the 80s. Hated Rotosounds (too rough, didn't last & were really harsh & clanky to my ears), & the only alternative was Picato Nickelwounds 45-110 (might have been 55 though) - lovely feel, lasted well & sounded nice 'n' warm. That sold me on nickel. Switched to Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky's when I couldn't get Picato any more & stayed with them until about 4-5 years ago. Hartke Mediums 45-105 are my current roundwounds of choice, triple packs off the 'bay for very reasonable money - handy if you're on a budget. I've a set of Rotosound Pressurewounds on the fretless & they're great as well. Feel nice, just a bit of "tooth", sound great and last for ages (2 years & counting). Pete.

[quote name='bassmeg' post='880109' date='Jun 28 2010, 05:41 PM']Ive had one for about a month now. SB900 elite. Have not heard a better bark and growl come out of my cab. Bought it after seeing Duran Duran on BBC2. I have only just been switched onto Matsumoku, in my view if his other guitars are as good as this one he is in the same mass production genius as Fender. The comments i have had for the sound i now get is unreal, and when i play live and it breaks down to just bass, instead of everyone switching off and wanting the guitar back in you can see people really listening to the grinding sound. I have even sold my sansamp now as i dont need it with this thing. I love my Aria, and any suggestions of other Matsumoku guitars to try would be much appreciated.[/quote] Try the SB series with the near-parallel string spacing (you've got the SB-R/Elite tapered version), or for a "pocket rocket" a CS (Cardinal) or a TSB (Tri-Sound, later Thor Sound). [quote name='bassmeg' post='880109' date='Jun 28 2010, 05:41 PM']Also due to the hole in the middle of my bass, could anyone could suggest a type of pickup for me to drop in there as a cover up?[/quote] What?! Are the stock 4-wire overwound humbuckers somehow not enough? IIRC the original ad said that the routing was for an Alembic p/up, so if you're desperate there's an option. If you could post the dimensions of the crater, that'd help a lot too. Alternatively, how about a ramp? Any half-tidy luthier should be able to confect a tasty sandwich of Ash, Walnut & Maple that would cover the desecration rather neatly. Pete.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='880746' date='Jun 29 2010, 10:44 AM']Bloodaxe (Pete) could you please dress properly next time? [/quote] I am more than happy to wear a BC T-shirt (provided it's in none-so-black) to the next Finnbass Ffumble.

£64 - Any good? [url="http://www.airandwatercentre.com/18inch-high-velocity-fan-386-details/"]http://www.airandwatercentre.com/18inch-hi...an-386-details/[/url] Google "Floor Fan" & make sure it's UK Only. P.

There's been something about this that sounded familiar, & it's been bugging me... Turns out you're not alone: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=666275&highlight=trace+elliot"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.p...ht=trace+elliot[/url] - scroll down to post 18. Any Trace buffs out there can confirm or refute? P.

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='879135' date='Jun 27 2010, 07:34 PM']I'm a little wary about compatibility when mixing different finishes. That's a real shame about the Plastikote, I was looking at that and thinking it might be a decent option - do you remember which you tried? Their drying times are very fast, I'm surprised it's still a problem so far down the line.[/quote] Drying time & Curing time are different animals. If your 75RI is already finished in Poly, then there should be no real issue with adverse reactions from any refinishing. Poly coat is catalysed, so it chemically cures in next to no time. The only way to get it off is with a sander, chisel or a [b]lot[/b] of Nitromors (preferably the lethal yellow version) & steel wool. The Rustin's brush-varnish will go on over any painted finish with no adverse effects at all, but it does need to be "keyed in" to the surface it's being applied to and it's always a good idea to key in all coats from primer up to final varnish to ensure good adhesion (almost irrespective of the paint system you're applying). Can't remember the exact flavour of PlastiKote that I had a problem with, but after the spray can issue one of their so-called Fast Dry Enamels (in the little jars) caused an annoying setback on a Signwriting contract a few years ago which was enough to put me off most of their products for life. The only exception is their range of metallic golds - I've had good results with those, but not applied them on anything that encounters heavy use. For rapid drying brushing enamels with great covering power, I now swear by this stuff: [url="http://www.stonehouses.co.uk/product_list.php?id=332"]http://www.stonehouses.co.uk/product_list.php?id=332[/url] - I've not tried spraying it, but this type of paint usually goes through an airbrush with no trouble. If I ever refinish the SB-1000F again it'll be with a combination of airbrushed Cover-It & brush-applied Rustin's. Pete.

[quote name='henry norton' post='879022' date='Jun 27 2010, 05:57 PM']I always thought oil type finishes looked better on natural wood guitars than a thick, glassy smooth lacquer. That said, you'd be hard pushed to get a metalflake finish using oil Have you looked at brush on finishes like Rustins plastic coat [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Rustins-Rustins-Clear-Plastic-Coating-23018.htm"]click here![/url] Bryan May painted his guitar with it and that still looks OK - give it enough coats and you'll be able to sand and polish it just the same as a sprayed finish but with considerably less mess.[/quote] +1 for Rustin's, and for brush-finishing. Haven't tried their two-pack, looks interesting though. I have used [url="http://www.rustins.eu/Details.asp?ProductID=833"]this stuff[/url] on a couple of necks & would do so again. Goes on like tar (even with a Purdy Sprig Elite) but flats out superbly & takes a lovely polish with a coarse cloth and some old gunky Brasso. Seems durable too, claims to be non-yellowing but far too early to tell (only been on a year). Not impressed by either Plastikote or Holt's Duplicolor clear rattle cans - not very hard wearing & prone to bruising even after a couple of months curing time. Holt's Matt Black was good though. If the existing finish isn't lifting or doing anything suspicious, why not just skim-fill it, key it up & then apply a new finish over the top? Saves doing all the prep work again. Pete.

[quote name='DreadAlert' post='878881' date='Jun 27 2010, 03:17 PM']Also, what do you mean by parallel?[/quote] Have a trawl through this: [url="http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:amps:impedance_and_wattage"]http://wiki.basschat.co.uk/info:amps:impedance_and_wattage[/url] It'll either blind you with science or fill you in, but it's a really good idea to get your head around Impedance & can save you from expensive disaster Pete.

[quote name='squire5' post='878884' date='Jun 27 2010, 03:22 PM']The cab is stored in my garage which is 'normal' temperature wise,and has been for years.[/quote] The temperature may not be the issue - I'd be more concerned about humidity/damp in the long term, although that begs the question as to why the other two haven't failed. Are there batch numbers on them? maybe the failed two are from a dodgy batch. I'd doubt that there's anything else wrong with them, maybe get 'em reconed? Overloading them usually causes voice-coil failure, not suspension collapse. [quote name='KiOgon' post='878947' date='Jun 27 2010, 04:51 PM']The chances of success with glue or duck tape or anything else must be a million to one. [/quote] Yeah, but million to one shots turn up 9 times out of ten Pete.

Not long back in myself - cooling off in front of a nice fan at the mo. An enormous thankyou to Dan (Dannybuoy) & JerryB for the near-last-minute lift offer - without that I'd still be sweltering on trains & buses. Dan, I owe you a pint or three at some point. An equally enormous thanks to Essex & Netball for putting the whole show together, laying on the refreshments and churning out baked spuds. & lastly to Bernie Goodfellow for lifting the veil somewhat on the Arcane & Dark Art of setups - strength to his elbow. So... high points? Dannybuoy's Orange Terror (if the Superfly ever goes titzup, that's the replacement I reckon), JackLondon's GK & Barefaced rig (yes, Barefaced [i]are[/i] really good - fact.), but the star prize must go to Wayne's frankly dreadful 'Encore' freebie-fretless. Absolutely devastatingly awesome! I will never say a bad word about Encore ever again - Wayne, that is a monstrous bass! And, as ever, a superb turnout of thorughly decent chaps & a cracking range of gear - a pleasure to make your acquaintances guys. Low points? None. Not one. Pas de saussicon. Nicht Bradwurst. Right. When's the next one? Pete.

Howdy Neighbour. Nice Score! Don't see to many II's about, let alone a lefty. Pete.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='878528' date='Jun 27 2010, 12:17 AM']Downloaded TuxGuitar. It's a very blatant GPro rip-off, except [b]I can't see a way to mute or solo tracks[/b]. I don't think it's going to win me over, tbh, though I'm sure I'd use it of I didn't already have GPro.[/quote] Ctrl+m or View > Show Mixer. Not very intuitive I admit, but it's there. Pete.

[quote name='dannybuoy' post='878594' date='Jun 27 2010, 07:30 AM']I can pick you up, I'll send you a text...[/quote] :D:D:D:D Thanks, you have a PM. Pete.

[b][size=6]Last Minute Appeal[/size][/b] If anyone's driving up from South London & likely to go near the South Circ around Catford, Forest Hill, Brockley, etc. & can fit me in I'd be hugely thankful. I'm planning on throwing myself on the mercy of Public Transport (two buses & a train) at around 08:30, but a lift would be a lot less stressful. PM me or give me a bell. Pete.

The lacquer has cracked & is starting to lift. The pale areas are where it's no longer bonding to the wood. P.

01. Essexbasscat 02. Aero , I'll bring:- Status Fretless Neck Jazz /Fender Aerodyne Jazz- David Eden WT800-Eden 210XST and XLT - Eden 115 - H&K BassBase 600 03. Jerry_B - Peavey T-40, MIJ Fender Jazz fretless 04. Stingray5 - Selected basses from my signature pic below; Trace Elliot GP12 SMX 1x15 + 2x10 rig; Boss GT-6B; (donuts...? ) 05. Bloodaxe - A couple of Aria SBs, Ashdown Superfly, Epifani UL-110. Possibly a couple of other bits & bobs if I can blag a lift. Oh, and a tenner. 06. 07. 08. 09. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='877500' date='Jun 25 2010, 03:57 PM']Thing is, I paid for GuitarPro so long ago I can't remember the pain.[/quote] I've had a couple of alleged GP5 tabs from 911Tabs.com that my copy of GP5 refuses to open, claiming I "need to upgrade" or some such nonsense. TuxGuit opens 'em just fine & it's a whole heap easier to use. Tux is now on my list of essential software, & I reckon it's Big Red Lever Time for GP. Pete

[quote name='Finbar' post='877025' date='Jun 25 2010, 12:40 AM']Either really, I'll take what I can get! But I suppose having it actual size would mean no resizing or anything would need doing? Like I say, the capital O is 8.5mm tall, so the rest should be scaleable from that? There's a link to the image on the Roland site here: [url="http://www.roland.co.uk/assets/media/pdf/OC-2_PSA_OM.pdf"]http://www.roland.co.uk/assets/media/pdf/OC-2_PSA_OM.pdf[/url][/quote] Attached for your delectation etc. I've duplicated the artwork to fill up an A4 sheet & included a couple in red, just in case that takes your fancy. I assume you're planning on using printable waterslide paper - if so, you may find the clear film is very thin indeed, so the spares might prove useful. Make sure that "Fit to printable area" is unticked, otherwise the printer will mess the scaling up. Hopefully this'll fit the bill... Pete.